X2 Every single word you just said 100% describes my thoughts and feelings exactly. I usually skip blogs, (we all have our own reasons for being here), but I'm glad I clicked on this one. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hello, There have been many times that this sight line was in place over the years of riding. Instantly, it does give you the feeling of being "tunneled." Getting a tube ride not only makes the wave memorable, but gives you the happiness of being one of the few who make it out and enjoy it. Lots of people get tubed, but the wave crashes on their heads and the ride is over. That is not the real ride or experience. Being in the slot, having the wave come over your head, touching the wall, wishing you could go a little faster (like a car) and then popping out of the wave in front and continuing the ride, just makes anyone's day. Tying that experience in relation to driving is pretty hard to do, but it is the feeling of driving that makes it worth while. You guys said it well. Nice story and resulting ideas. The feeling of being in your own car, doing your own thing is never duplicated. We are hot rodders, now or back then. It never leaves us. The thrill is there in any type of car. Sometimes it is hard to describe why we like cars, let alone drive one around and enjoy it. The beauty is in the car, the location, the sounds, and definitely the company or lack of… etc. If that motor sounds powerful, then it takes over the experience without any other distractions. chainsmokers los angeles coastline santa monica to pt. mugu Learning the open road with whatever car you are driving hits the spot, then you are addicted. Surfing is similar, riding on a wave, cutting back, turning, all are demanding. But, it can be left alone to walk away, when the enjoyment is waning or is gone. The tube is a mystical place, but 99% of the time, it is so short that you wonder about the magic of that part of the ride. If added to the overall enjoyment of the wave, the action, the feeling of riding, then it is part of the magic. It really is no big thing not to "get tubed." There were many days of sitting on our boards at Salt Creek Beach in the OC, just contemplating life, waves, cars, significant others, kids, and a myriad of ideas. It does give you some insight into all of those things, when looking below you on a crystal clear water day, at what is swimming around. Leopard sharks down below just cruising around leaving us to ride the waves. Life was "in sync" for all of us on those days. “Catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world Don't be afraid to try the greatest sport around (catch a wave, catch a wave) Everybody tries it once Those who don't just have to put it down (ooh waah x3) You paddle out turn around and raise (ooh wah ooh) And baby that's all there is to the coastline craze You gotta catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world” Outside, Salt Creek Point: My last wave in the Spring, 2003 taken by “Flame, Surfing Mag photographer” After many years of daily practice, constant travels, and zillion waves later, this was the way to go…BEING IN THE DRIVER'S SEAT...On the beach afterwards, it was a Zen moment of thanks and many recollections while stretching, one last time. This was a 35mm Ektachrome color slide that could be shown “life size” on a giant home white wall for special effects…yowza ! I have always liked driving, ever since my dad taught me how to steer, standing on his lap of the big 49 Buick Roadmaster. I would stare out of the windows every time we went someplace, too. When I started driving, I did not like riding around in other friend's cars. It was my car, my place, my feeling... a total package that I got every time I was behind the wheel. I love the driving feeling all of the time. Driving is similar with surfing in that it is harnessing the power and being in control. But, they both take a while to master Jnaki Today, I don't mind the near 200 mile round trip to Long Beach or to San Diego. It only takes an hour + and the company is usually great. When alone, the drive is just as satisfying... So, the feeling lives !!! Near a cemetery wall or a wall of water... you are the driver in control.
Ryan........probably the best piece of your writing that I have read......maybe because it strikes a common chord. I have 'tussled' with you here a few times, but this article revealed to me, at least, that we may have more in common than I thought. Peace. Ray
I used to just go for a 5 mile toot around the area near me when I had my roadster just to clear the head and regroup. Also when I had a 46 Chris Craft runabout,there was nothing better than a early Sat-Sun morning ride up the river when it was flat as glass and no one else out there. Sit up on top of the seat and listen to the cool exhaust of a old boat. This is a very personal thing and I can tune out everything and couldnt care less if anyone else sees or hears it. Its what makes you ,you.
Thoughtful insightful and something i discovered years ago.With children and house payments and all that living stuff. Even us car guys get lost in the confusion.It sure is great when the light goes on again and we breathe.
The Jalopy Journal
