I've had it, I've tried everything to pass the wires through the door of my El Camino to operate the door solenoid. I tried running up along the hinge, they pinched, I tried a hose covering the wires, it got crushed, I used a $70 conduit kit with a revolving ball that I bought from Speedway, it won't stay locked in place, I'm at my wit's end. Does anyone make the stock bellows that Chevy had, I can't find one anywhere? I almost wish I hadn't shaved these handles.
There is a thread here somewhere ..... I remember reading it months ago and figured that the technique was pretty bullet proof .... dont recall the thread title though ... you might dig alittle.
I tried to search a few threads here and on 67-72chevytrucks, but couldnt find the pics. The OP had used grommets at the door and jamb. Then installed a 8 inch tightly coiled 3/8 spring and fixed it at the jamb end. ran the wires through the spring and when the door opened and closed, the spring would slide into the door keeping the wires safe and never bending. found a pic...look at 1950suburban , he is ( recently passed away) a member here and on www.67-72chevy trucks.com on his build thread there it shows the spring. I will try to move the pic to photobucket and repost it here, still can't find the tech article but you should be able to do it.
Heres the pic he posted there The A.D. cabs have zero room for wires and I have seen a few people doing this over on that forum, still looking for a tech thread other option
There was a tech where a guy cut the top 1/2" off his hinge and replaced it with 1/2" square tubing... welded it all up and you couldn't tell. He then ran his wiring though the tube and it was pretty stinkin' cool!! I've got some of those wire loom pieces that slide in and out of the door jambs.
Here's my other solution (here)... but you can find them cheaper on ebay if you dig around a little bit. I've bought 3 sets and they've never been over $25 a pair shipped.
I think it was a thread by fu manchu on Roger Merit's 54 Chevy that they're talking about, Try digging through that one.
Wasn't that one... he just did the loom. This one was older probably from 06-7 or so. At least the one I was talking about.
Yup, found it on page 13, not sure it'll work for Nads 59 but it's worth a look. I know I've seen others thats just the one Im able to remember right now.
You can track some of these door conduits down, found on most 50/60's Cadillacs and other heavily optioned GM's from the era, they're re-popped for tri-fives.
When I got my '33 Plymouth it had the looms Chaddilac showed but some none had installed hm wrong and they wadded up about half the time. I replaced them with the cheapo plastic version and they worked great. About $12 IIRC.
those look like the mount at one side (jamb) and slide through the harder plastic sleeve into the door and should work without bending or kinking
I think the thread referred to is by MP&C,but I'd hate to go through this at your point of the build. His 2 versions are awesome though. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234908 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240630
I milled (drill mill) out the lower section of both front door hinges and welded plates over the slot to support the wires.
When you say bellows, are you referring to the accordianed rubber wireways? If so, check out late '80's to early '90's Ford pickups, they had a real durable setup. EDIT: similar aftermarket product (I realize most manufacturers used these, the Ford ones just seem to hold up better): http://www.onepieceproducts.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=4301-70-011
Duct Tape should ...git-r-done ...copyright © 1999-2012 git-r-done productions. Could tape it to the steering wheel for those to fast there's a tree times .
I was just forced to deal w/ this the other day on my 51 plym. The hinge geometry on it would definetly pinch and wad up any wire that passed thru the jamb. As much as I hate to spend money on any parts, I decided to buy the "Jamb Tachs" like painless wiring sells. the best deal I found was thru Haywire. http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm...ategory_id=39/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd218.htm Only thing I did different was, instead of buying 2 sets, I only bought one set and made identical mates that used stainless button head bolts for the contacts. This worked great since it saved me 1/2 the cost, and due to the allen head socket in the button head bolt, it also helps center the brass contacts as they come together, plus you get more surface area for contact instead of just the two brass "points". Good luck, Jeff
Chevy vans (96-back) with power locks have a metal flexible conduit that's like a spring, it bolts to the body and runs into the door with enough length you can open it and some still stays in the door. They'd work for up to about four wires and would be cheap at a wrecking yard. If it has side doors, it will have two, one for the right rear door and one for the longer side door.
What Gator said with a bit of Vaseline or KY Jelly to keep them doing the "in & out" smoothly......................or you can weld a conforming piece of steel brakeline to the bottom of the lower hinge to use as a conduit. http://www.lategreatchevy.com/full-size-chevy-power-window-door-wire-conduits-1959-1960.html http://www.lategreatchevy.com/full-size-chevy-power-window-door-wire-conduits-1961-1962.html
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