I'll post what I have so far. I've been working on another version of my homemade quickchange. I'm thinking about calling it a "HILLBILLYBRAND" tm to go with my "HILLBILLYBORN"tm fuel injection. First thing is gut out and clean a banjo housing. Before you make any cuts be sure you are making the hole for the bottom shaft on the proper side of the pinion. If you make the hole on the top side you'll have a "go three speeds in reverse" rear end. If you just rotate the housing so the pinion faces the rear with the cutout for the pinion facing you you will make the cut for the bottom shaft below the pinion. The biggest thing to remember with a V-8 or Halibrand type of quickchange is the gear spacing center to center is 3 inches. You must use the V-8 6 spline type gears. The bigger Winters style use a 10 spline 3-1/2 inch center to center spacing. I used my milling machine to cut the hole for the bottom shaft but a good drill press with a sturdy vise or some other means of holding the housing steady would work. I used a 2 inch good quality bimetal holesaw. I was able to use a coaxial indicator to center the big hole then move my table 3 inches. With careful measurement this could be accomplished several other ways. I also made a cut from the other side of the housing using the same measuring method . It is not super critical if it is not "dead on" a few thou one side or the other won't make much difference because these holes only locate the tube that the shaft goes through. the holes must line up straight though or the pinion shaft won't be parallel to the driveshaft and the gears won't mesh properly. The next thing I made was the back plate for the housing. I laid out where the holes would be and cut out the flange "star". This plate will be welded to the housing flush with the flange. Next step is to machine a front bearing retainer. I'm using a 6206 bearing so i made the flange the od of the bearing on one side and 2 inch od on the other side to weld the tube to. I used 2 inch 1/8 wall DOM tube . I made the bearing housing in two halves to capture the bearing and I machined a recess for a Ford 9 inch pinion seal. I'm sorry that I don't have a picture for every step . My photographer is a lazy SOB and won't drop what he's doing to come over and take pictures of everything I do (lazy basturd) So here's a shot of the pieces before they get married. The difference between this rearend and my last one is I am making the bearing housing separate from the back plate. My last one I made them one in the same and I got too much distortion when I welded it all together. This time I made a bearing housing out of 1-1/4 inch aluminum . It will be easier to adjust any gear clearance issues this way, also the bearing housing will act as my pinion bearing retainer. I won't get into the specifics of the plate. you should be able to see how I did it. So here's everything mocked up before welding Here's the results after welding. I used an Air Liquide welding rod called "Magic" yeah , that's the name. I don't know the alloy but it's purpose is for welding mild steel to cast. I still have to machine the tube for clearance for the ring gear and carrier. I'm thinking I will try my hand at casting the rear cover. I want to do it as a cover and housing all in one like the "Speed Demon " by Wilson welding. I'm also going to try to machine my own shaft. I have done a couple of practice pieces and have got the 6 spline thing figured out. My last shaft was made by cutting and rewelding a 6 spline driveshaft down and welding and machining bearing collars onto the shaft. Ther's still lots of work to do . I have to make the shaft , the housing , driveshaft yoke... but I hope you get the picture of what I've done so far. Most of this could be done with a good drill press and lathe.