Hi Just a quick question about the paintless dent removal tools you see available now. You know, you glue the tab onto the panel over the dent and then attach the puller and it pulls the dent out. I know most of you pro's out there would weld a pin on and do it the pro way, however I am looking at an option for the non welder basic body skills kind of guy. I am starting my resto and have a few dents to get rid of and am hoping to avoid going down the welder route. My panel beating skills are basic - so if this will make the start a bit easier to then finish off with a hammer and dolly it might be a good option. Thoughts, ideas, beer? Thanks
Hey, The glue tab type of pulling method is only really good on oem paint finishes that are in good shape. If you use these over a repaired (non oem) paint finish, when you make the pull, they usually only pull the finish off leaving the damage intact. For areas of damage that don't have clear access from behind, I'd look into buying a pry pick or thin spoon that can be slid under reinforcements and pryed with. Several auto body tool companies still sell these (Martin, here in the USA comes to mind) and they are cheaper than any of the stud welding guns for sale today. For areas where there is clear access from behind panels simply bump & ding the damage up using on & off dolly methods, no magic there. " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
i'm not sure the paintless dent repair tools, designed for new car tin foil bodies, would work as well on older car sheetmetal. hammer, dolly, pick and file are the tools to use.
I had a dent removed on my wife's OT car. The guy said it only really works newer cars. Probably because of the paints and thinner metal used. But I don't really know. He also said that he should get a booth at our show to show what he can do?! Bill
[quote pimpin paint] The glue tab type of pulling method is only really good on oem paint finishes that are in good shape. If you use these over a repaired (non oem) paint finish, when you make the pull, they usually only pull the finish off leaving the damage intact. that would be called "dented paint removal"
As usual the wise minds of the HAMB have the answers,..thanks for the tips. I had not considered the difference in panel thickness between my '49 Caddy and a modern tin can body, or the paint for that matter. Time to go shopping for some new "old school" toys and develop my skills thanks again
I have one of these a slide hammer with a suction cup works great the text reads GUY CHORT Complete Frame & BodyRepair Tools Made in Cananda No 200019
Not sure if I should have specified, my paint is the stuffed original paint so once I have the dents out of it, it will be a bare metal respray so I am not so fussed about damaging the existing paint Thanks again
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I used to own a PDR company back in the 90's. I made all my own tools out of stainless blanks. It was a 3/8 diameter tool that was bent on one end to about 120 degree for the handle end and the business end only kicked up abou 15 degrees the opposite direction. Then grind the end to a tapered flat but rounded end. That was the metal pushing part of the tool. If you start at the top of the dent and work your way across the dent slowly with lots and lots of little pushes working your way down if it was say on a door you can get it perfect. I am making it sound easy but it takes practice. I also used a reflective board if I was outside and flourescents inside a garage. If you are interested let me know and I can sketch out something.
And the suction cups will pull out a large dent but the metal has still been displaced. Many times the slightest bump to that area will cause it to pop back in. Not something you want after a paint job It can be done on older cars as well if you are experienced. The metal being obviously thicker is harder to push back into place but it can be done. Curves at a body line are very hard to make right. Jag's & Mercedes at least up until the early 90's was thicker than american made cars and required a little more pushing.
Thanks FANG and Bryanhes, I like the sound of the tool. I can understand what you mean and can see how that would work. I have a busy time coming up
I've had luck with this HF dent removal kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/crossba...kit-66957.html Only works on factory paint as you release the hot glue with acetone. The acetone will remove any respray.
The traditional PDR of prying the dent from behind works great on dents that hasn't broken the paint. I've had small dents removed from my old cars as well as daily drivers with fabulous results. I've had a Toyota 4 Runner repaired that had hail damage. Got a body shop estimate for $1600 to repair it and the Dent Doctor charged $1000 to remove the dents. $600 went into my pocket.
I totally understand that many times in insurance that it is done that way. Putting that $600 in your pocket is one of the reasons why insurance is so costly for everyone including you. If your insurance company had only had to pay out the actual cost of the repair on your vehicle and all the others that they typically pay out on then your rates and possibly everyone else's would be lower. I don't work for the insurance industry and have no love for it, but I can see how what you did can almost be considered fraud. And don't ever think that you got that $600 for free, you will pay that back and then some (as will anyone else who made a claim) through rate increases that last for years after your claim.
The Jalopy Journal
