My son is going to paint my junk T-Bird this morning, been a long time coming. Got the body blocked, looks pretty straight to me. I am using the Duplicolor paint shop laquer paint (performance red). i will let you know how this all plays out.
That’s great, add your pictures here if you can. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-the-driveway-or-garage-thread.943236/page-23
alright already! these things take time! we finally got the 3 color coats on, and then 3 clear coats. Duplicolor says to wait 48 hours to wet sand with 1500 or 2000 paper. then buff it. so here are some pictures of the car after the clearcoat. We tied getting the paint and the clear to lay down smooth, but it always was alittle rough, almost like air bubles in the paint. But it will buff out just fine. took 6 quarts of red and 6 quarts of clear. that is a lot of painting to do. But now I can roll the painted chassis in the shop and start making the motor mounts for the 351 cleveland and C4.
Birdman Please do not take this wrong , but I have been painting cars for over 40 years. Do your self a big favor and flat sand that with 600 grit wet and apply at least 3 more coats of clear and apply wetter and slower . you will not be able to wet sand and buff that much peal with only 3 coats. Again not trying to be an ass just talking from years of experience. And I am not talking about show verse driver . I am talking buffing through and durability. Larry
I would like to help you . I have been painting cars everyday for 30 yearsand it looks like from the pictures that you are applying the product wrong in some way. Did it look nice and shiny when finished spraying and then haze over and get bumpy or was it hazy and bumpy like this while you were spraying ? I agree you should resand and respray but you need to figure out what went wrong the first time. You used enough materials to get a really nice finish. It is easier to resand and spray than to try and polish out what I see in these pictures. I would recommend re sanding the car with 600 grit minimum to remove all the texture let it sit for a few days to gas off and try and rethink what went wrong.
The paint was rough as it was being applied to the car. we used a DeWalt siphon feed gun. 40# air pressure at the gun. theduplicolor is already mixed in the can and is very thin. I can't paint anymore (COPD), so my son is doing the spraying paint for me. With the proper mask. I tried to explain how to set the gun and I think it was pretty close. i think it was operator error. Do I sand with the 600 until smooth, even if it cuts through the clear and into the paint? after the 600, should I use 15000 or 2000 to get it smoother? thanks for the help, I know my son is very dissappointed, so I would really like to make it look better.
Do you and your son both a favor----Sand with 600, go get sum real paint and clear and redo. Duplicolor is JUNK.
Yes. It doesn't matter if you sand through the clear since you are going to re-clear. Of course if you sand through the paint that will require more color. No, no finer than that 600 is needed, there will be sanding scratches. On Duplicolor, I have never used it so I cant offer any assistance. Nor do I know if you can put another brand clear over their product already on the car. I suggest some research on that one before you spend more money. Best of luck, painting a car isn't rocket science but it is a lot of chemistry... and voodoo.
well, i went and got some 600 wet or dry. I wet sanded about a 12"x24" spot on the trunklid and wet sanded it , slowly, until the paper started gliding across the paint easily. was much smoother. so I sanded it until it was dead smooth, no ripples. then I put my mask on, put about a pint of clear coat in the gun, and did 2 heavy, wet coats. BINGO! it was smooth and shinny like it should be. I think I figured out what we did wrong. The directions on the can said the first coat should be a light tack coat. My son put a very light coat on, and it was very rough and flat looking. he want to sand it off and start over with a wet coat, but I told him the next coats will snooth it out. I was wrong of course. so I think we can get a nice shinny paint job out of it yet by sanding it smooth and laying down some heavy wet clear coats. thanks for seeing my screw-up and for all the help figuring it out. photos to follow
I think you may be on the right track . I prefer wet sanding - a good trick when wet sanding to remove texture is to have some sort of squeegee to wipe over your freshly sanded surface to check your progress . You want to remove the texture but try not to burn through. It might sound funny but you can think of this failed paint attempt as just a expensive coat of primer! Try not to be in such a hurry to recoat your t-bird- let it harden up really good first. When you wet sand it really opens up the surface for drying -let it sit for a few days paint doesn’t like piling up on itself to quickly. I think it is really cool that your son is helping you, my dad and I would do stuff like this all the time. Sadly he passed in 2011-just tell your son how lucky he is to be spending quality time with his old man!!
father and son working together. nothing else brings them together more than doing work and seeing the results. that's why my cars don't have to be very perfect. I can look at the T-Bird and see what my kids and grandkids have done together. Thanks for all the good advice
Congratulations a father or grandfather teaching his kids or grandkids how to roll up thier shirtsleeves and put in a days work and look back at what they have accomplished is sadly becoming a lost teaching. My father in law left my wife a beautiful 58 Edsel they worked on when she was little - it isn’t perfect either . But the memories in that car far exceed what perfection ever could.
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