Painting procedure advice please

I know there is more that one way to skin a cat but I do have a few procedural questions for you painters out there.

Edit, new question at the bottom

Here is where I'm at:
I put my silver and 2 coats of clear over the body line that runs under the windows. I'm using summit single stage color and high solids clear.


Question 1
How much of that body line would you color sand?
Would you sand the whole thing, tape for my green and then clear everything again? Or just sand where the green goes, tape and just clear over the green? btw I am planning on some pin striping between the green and silver


I'm sure I'll have another question or 4
thanks

 

Well, I probably would have not cleared the silver yet. I'd have done both base colors and cleared the whole thing. Are you planing to clear over your striping ? if so, I'd probably sand the whole thing, lay down the green, then stripe, then clear it all.

Disclaimer.....I am only a home hobbiest painter, you may want to wait for a pro to chime in here...

 

Understood, but I'm not nearly fast enough to do the silver, green then clear without violating my 18 hr recoat window

 

On most paints, going over the recoat window only means you have to scuff it before recoating....If this isn't the case with yours, one light coat of clear (or an intercoat clear) over the silver would help keep the thickness down. Your first post mentions that you used a single stage and then cleared, which means that you could get away with scuffing it before your final clear.

 

I do believe that to be the case.
"Surface of film must be abraded....after recoat period has expired"
I was planning on 400 or 600.

I'm thinking I put to much clear over the silver (it looks great now) to put more on...

 

I think you did the right things so far. I'd much rather clear the silver and scuff later right before I clear the whole car.

Before you paint the green, scuff the whole car (600 - 800) and then clean the whole car. Tape it off, shoot the green, untape and clear the whole car again. I would probably clear the green only with a light coat but overlapping the silver by a couple inches on the first coat. Second coat of clear, I'd lay a wetter coat of clear and overlap the silver by 8-12 inches. Third coat of clear, I'd lay down a nice wet coat over everything being very carefull in the areas of siver that haven't been re-cleared yet. That's the finese part.

 

Cool, thanks for the sanity check.

Next question on jambing.

I believe I'll be disassembling the car (again) to get the jambs and hidden lips under the trunk ect. Then reassembly and paint the outside in one fell swoop.

What's the best way to avoid overspray on the rest of the car?
Lot's of masking right at the outer skin edges?

 

Yep, lots of masking. Cover everything up you don't want paint on. Overspray gets everywhere

 

Not to get off course but how is that summit paint? I tried some eastwood and it works good. Price is nice to.

 

10-4 thanks

I can't compare it to anything else, this is my first real paint job. Sorry

 

Usally mask the car with plastic. On the edges, I fold the tape back to create a soft edge. PM me for details and help.

 

Gotcha, I've been watching YouTube on back masking.

Is the plastic masking the same home despot has? I've got some of that left over from the house

 

Probably not the same stuff. I don't know for sure because I use the Norton or 3M plastic made for the job. It's inexpensive - less than 50.00 for a 750ft long roll.

 

To add a little to your questions, the frind of a friend painter says it looks good, but drys quick.

 

thats so cool you are painting your car yourself.. i just did my first one on mine.. i back taped rolling the tape over as well.. i would only suggest if you us plastic.. use the type specifically for painting.. if not.. the paint overspray will not stick to it..and will fall on to your paint job.. this happened with my buddies..so with mine.. we masked with paper..and all the overspray stuck to the paper.. good luck buddy..cant wait to see it done!

 

To answer you question. It depends on if you want to bury the tape lines so that it all looks like glass. Also, you can clear over your pinstripe, just make sure you pu a little of the hardener that come with the paint in the pinstripe paint. If you don't, it will wrinkle like alligator skin. I guess it comes dow to if you want to see a paint edge or not.


Almost forgot, put paper over your plastic near the paint edge. It will keep the plastic from fluttering and possibly landing back on your new paint. Good Luck!

 

i would tape where you want the second color , scuff up to the tape and clear , once dry , unmask and stripe the paint edge... done... perfect for a very nice driver, i have been doin body and paine for 30 years and thats the way i would do it.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I wouldn't have been able to get this far without ya!

She is jambed, cleaned and ready.
see post 157 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390824&page=8

Last little question.
I'm told this paint drys "quickly".
Does adding a bit more reducer slow down the cure also?

BTW I am using their "slow" activator and reducer. When I painted the jambs I mixed it 4:1 with 1/2 reducer, the tech sheets say I can easily go 4:1:1.

I'm going to practice again on the spair trunk, so I'd like to try it out on that.

 

very cool trying the paint yourself thats what i'm doin with my merc project

 

Thanks PMAN, best of luck to you!

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