It's been posted before, And it'll probably be posted again, So please, With-out telling me WHY I SHOULDN'T, Could someone please tell me what ALL is involved in painting a car using a rattlecan (and making it look nice)? (i.e., getting one of those "spray gun" tips, heating the can, number of times it needs to be wet sanded, and the recommended grit) Ya know, The whole nine yards! Thanks!
you can also paint one with a sweeper and also a powderpuff[50's trick].....I dont think Id do it tho man,its a better job with a cheap spray gun[rent one with compressor]. also I think even if it looked all right that there is something in the aerosol can propellant that affects the stick/durability of the finish.....again just my opinion.
Well first off the r/cans dont put a lot of paint on so you will need to build it up with quite a few passes. I would have thought that about 3 passes before you start wet sanding. Use a600 grit keeping it wet then wash off all the residue dry it and go again with a couple more passes,try and keep it as even as you can when spraying,when it's dry wet sand again this time using 800 grit and see what it looks like,if you are happy use a rubbing compound to get a shine then on with the wax. At least thats what I would do if I had to go that way, the number of coats will also depend on how well the paint covers. Hope this helps. john forgot use a block and don't put to much pressure on it let the paper do the work.
Neighbor kid told me it took $40 worth of rattle cans to paint this little Toyota. When he was finished it was one of the ugliest cars I'd ever seen. Next time I see him I'll ask for his painting tips. It will make a nice list of things not to do.
It really ain't any easier, in fact it's harder, and not a lot cheaper to paint with rattle cans. With cans you have to have the conditions right on to get an even paint job and you also have to choose the right brand. You need really good technique too. It's a lot of work to get it right. You have to maintain the right distance from the object and have nice even strokes. Make sure the temperature is right on too. You will definately follow the sanding instructions above also. I painted my shoe-box with rattle cans and it looked better than a friend who shot his with a gun. I have good technique and set the conditions right and he is impatient and has no technique. Mine cost MORE than his to get right... I actually had to go get more cans (40 0r 50 OSH brand total) in the middle of the job. He had a garage and I didn't though so that's why I did it that way. With a gun (I have a really good regular gun and a HVLP system as well) you can make adjustments for conditions etc. You deliver more material in less time and can do it more evenly. I understand why you don't want to use a gun but there's really no reason not too... You can rent a gun and a little compressor... I still have Car-Pool Tunnel Syndrom from my rattle can excapades...
I hate to even mention it, but wouldn't it be better to spend $150 and get a Maaco or econobake or whatever paint job? I mean, I'm sure it'll hold up better than spray paint, is almost as cheap, and would look a lot better. A freind just had his work truck done, he did the body work, dropped it off, picked it up the next day. Had it painted white, and didn't look half bad. Wasn't a show finish, but a lot closer than rattle cans!
Thanks Mike! But check your e-mail... (sorta why I'm asking) Okay, okay- So how much is renting a compressor and paint gun gonna cost me...? Where/how would I go about renting one...? I have a TINY compressor, For an air-brush... Would that be too "crackheaded" to work?
hey greaseball: i like others before me have tried the rustoleum route.. i will pass on what my experience tells me works. 1. prep the surface as you would for any other paint. 2. prime the surface using rustoleums "rusty metal primer", it is a red oxide color, only on heavily rusted metal. This product contains fish oil so don't go crazy with it. block sand the rusty metal primer to steel, leaving the pits filled with the rusty metal primer. 3. prime all other bare metal, and the surfaces you blocked out in step two, using rustoleum "clean metal primer" it is white 4. wait for 24 hours for it to dry... 48 is better.. 5. wet sand, block etc.. to get a suitable surface.. 6. apply rustoleum however you can, roller, brush or air. Of course air goes down smoother, but with some sanding brush and roller work just as well. 7. get enough paint down to allow for sanding, that means at least 2-3 coats if brushed/rollered, if sprayed get at least 4 or 5 coats down. 8. wait at least 48 hours, if you sand ealier you clog a lot of paper. 9. start out with 220 wet sand/block out.. check the surface, get is as flat as you can or want to.. then follow with 320 then 400, then 600,,, from there you can use rubbing compound and go as far as you like.. 10. if you are using black, dont apply the wax by hand, use a power orbital buffer to apply the wax, and to buff it out. doing it by hand will end up looking like shit... been there done that. final notes: wait at least a couple of weeks to wax, let the rustoleum fully cure out. use acetone to thin the rustoleum products, dont use mineral spirits or paint thinner,, on my hvlp i thinned approx 30% by volume or about 2 part paint to one part acetone, final coat about 50/50 but be careful it will run, making more work. i have not tried an airless sprayer but i think that they would work better than a brush, remember the smoother you get the paint on, the less sanding. dont worry about or freak over dirt getting in the paint, it will sand out well, unless it is a really big pos., bugs can be lifted with tweezers, and a drop of paint dropped in the spot, the stuff is easy to spot in and repair. rustoleum has some uv protection in its formulation, but the use of a good wax with uv protection would help. rustoleum cost about 22 bucks a gallon, acetone maybe 7 or 8 bucks a gallon. good luck bob
Bob- Are you saying you can just go out and BUY rustoleum, to shoot w/a compressor? Or are you talking rattle-cans too? I am concerned about the rattle paint FADING After I get it on, And I've heard that the color black goes on the smoothest...? But I would also think black fades the most...? Anybody know...?
i wouldnt waste my time with the rattle cans,, and yes you can get rustoleum by the pints, quart, gallons, at home depot, lowes, and just about any hardware chain store.. fading,, well the rustoleum is supposed to resist fading,, but that is what the carnuba with uv protection is to help slow down,,, and if it does,,, big deal... got some real "patina" goin on bob
Rustoleum is great if you want the satin look of primer -etc-BUT if your talkin paint as in gloss and gloss retention I would not use it. there are plenty of options most paint stores have second lines such as Nason or Omni and Western and Diamond Vogel which are all good as a low cost auto grade finish.... use somethin like them and it will be worth the trouble.....good luck
I like to use DupliColor rattle can primer, seems to work pretty well. Does anyone know if this stuff is compatible under automotive paint. I plan to use it for some "spot" repairs on the '49, then I would prime the whole car with a spray gun. Would like to leave the spot work alone and not have to sand it all off before priming and painting. I plan on using PPG's cheap line, I think it is called "Omni"???
If you are trying to get a hand rubbed finish with rattle cans... good luck. I don't think it's possible. That said, this was done with Krylon rattle cans in 1997. Semi flat black wasn't over used back then. This wasn't that hard. The panels are short so you can keep a wet edge and not get that striped look. Trying to do it on a long 50's 1/4 panel would be difficult at best. Clone HVLP guns are cheap. Mine surprised the shit out of me. No-name paint is available on ebay and some auto catalog parts stores. Learn a new skill without breaking the bank. I got lots of help right here on the HAMB. My first attempt at base coat clear coat. You can wet sand and buff any mistakes. It's really not that hard. Just a matter of feel. I.M.H.O.
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