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PAINTERS- Primer/Bare metal Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mr.Musico, Jun 29, 2010.

  1. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,641

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    My car was first shot with HOK DTM KD2000, then a couple good coats of poly primer. The car was blocked and now has a couple bare metal spots - should it be re-shot with a dtm primer(KD2000)? or will it be ok to just hit it with another coat of poly? or both?

    Although I appreciate everyones input, I'm looking to get advice from those who do this for a living. Thanks again.
     
  2. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,641

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    ..............................
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Brentadour
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 40

    Brentadour
    Member

    It really depends on the size of the bare metal spots. If they are small (coin sized) you can get away with it. If they are as large as a hand then they need more primer. Sealer covers a lot but you probably should prime it again if you want a nice job.
     
  4. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    By looking at your pic. I would shoot a light coat of sealer over the metal spots, then a good wet coat of primer over the entire car, then block it again.

    Is that a 41.
     

  5. superchiicken
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 123

    superchiicken
    Member

  6. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,641

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    yeah for sure gonna prime again, be was unsure if I should use the direct to metal primer 1st before the poly.

    sounds resonable.
    yeah 41- Thers a link to the build here somewhere. Thanks.
     
  7. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,522

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    Those bm spots are high spots thats why you broke thruwhen blocking.Sounds like you got more bodywork to do before priming.
     
  8. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,641

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    The spots are along some edges and some seams that I cleaned up a bit_ not high spots on the panel.
     
  9. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,288

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    Poly Primer should only be applied over Epoxy Primer or bare metal. I "think" that the HOK primer is urethane. If so, I'd be
    worried about the Poly coming off of the Urethane Primer, especially if you went wet on wet with the Poly over a Urethane.
    Jut my 2 cents, but I've fixed these types of nightmares after the
    fact !! Best wishes.

    VOODOO R&C
     
  10. 56oldsDarrin
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 396

    56oldsDarrin
    Member

    what he said
     
  11. bigguylilroof
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 210

    bigguylilroof
    Member

    not sure about hok anything cause it reacts diffrently to other materials, unless you use the same reducer. there is nothing wrong with spot priming your spots Lightly!! as long as the primer in the area is at its finish block stage, like (320) or (400) i would lightly spot prime the area so i had no break throughs and finish sand and epoxy and shoot! but if is very small blow throughs, epoxy seal it and shoot man!! good luck!
     
  12. 39 All Ford
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 1,530

    39 All Ford
    Member
    from Benton AR

    IMO, just looking at the pic, I have to think that there is more blocking in your future.

    The SIZE of the sand through areas says "not yet", I know that was not your question, but I decided to add my .02 anyway... :D
     
  13. inliner54
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 411

    inliner54
    Member

    small spots of metal are fine, but larger ones should be hit with some dtm primer. Im not a big fan of poly primer but, in this case i would just go ahead and shoot your bare metal spots with dtm primer and then hit it again with your polyester primer. good luck
     
  14. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,641

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    Yeah its only sanded to 150 now, so at least a couple more rounds of blocking are coming-

    I guess my question wasnt clear, I guess I was looking to see if its safe to apply poly primer to bare metal spots directly, or is it best to hit it with dtm primer 1st.
     
  15. landy
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 6

    landy
    Member

    If your breaking thru to bare metal you must have high spots. i would check your metal work before proceeding with any primers. Pro spray has a nice dtm primer and sands really nice. i would use a urethane primer if it was me. good luck
     
  16. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Polyester primer to bare metal is pretty much a major no-no! I'd go with your DTM in the spots you blew thru, then your poly, if that's what's on the job now, and seal, prior to top coating with an epoxy.

    " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
     
  17. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    Give the high spots a little tappy tappy with a hammer then re-prime. Block those areas again. As someone mentioned , SHoot it with primer again ad block it again with a guide coat..Last thing you want to do is have to do it ALL again.

    Paint sucks I know I am in the middle of it right now. Good luck man.
     
  18. HELLMET
    Joined: Apr 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,606

    HELLMET
    Member

    dont use poly primer over bare metal. Stick with kd2000 its very good primer. Dont change primers stick with one product if something fails you know what it is. I like useing epoxys the best over bare metal and good 2k dtm primers are very good and most you can reduce down to make a non sanding sealer if you have cut throughs like you do. Billy
     
  19. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I've seen people use poly primer here in England and they always seem to get problems, it sucks up moisture like a sponge. the only time i ever use it is on a fibreglass body and then i epoxy prime first and get it sealed as soon as i've finished dry sanding it.
    I epoxy primer all my bare metal, then do my fillerwork, then hi build primer, I've not had any problems for the last 15 years since i 've been doing it that way.
     
  20. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Might be too late now, but if you are using HOK products, why not just use their KP epoxy primer? OK to use over bare metal, it's a good filler/surfacer primer, sands pretty easy, and also acts like a sealer.
    If not, I agree with most here, use your DTM for large bare spots before proceeding with more poly.
     

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