The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KaiserKruiser, Oct 25, 2009.
Can you roll on the primer too?
Why would you use a clear on the Synthetic Enamel and not the Acrylic Enamel? Oh and BTW, Acrylic Enamel is a Copolymer of Synthetic(Alkyd) and Acrylic TPA (Acrylic Lacquer). SE should clean out easily with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, but avoid acetone for cleaning.
i paint my cousins dirt track cars with it and it holds up and looks good.. yes you can roll on the primer it will cover any heavy sand scratches left in the filler work
Single stage eurothane has gotten so cheap why screw with the Rustoleum? TCP Global sells a eurothane + hardner for less than $100 a gallon and it sprays & looks awesome. 144 color choices, too.
Would you thin the primer as much as the paint, or apply thicker and block sand down?
Also, would Rust-oleum marine top coat be a better option since it has UV protection?
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS Marine Paint 1207.pdf
The acrylic enamel I'm referring to is a single stage, that means you don't need to clear over it. Rustoleum isn't a single stage paint, if you want to have the added protection then you need to use a clear coat over it simple as that. And like I said earlier you can get a single stage acrylic enamel for dirt cheap nowadays so there's really no advantage to using rustoleum.
My personal opinion: it depends on the vehicle and it's intended purpose. If I'm painting an NCRS Vette built to be a trailer queen, you bet it's getting a lacquer or acrylic urethane paint. If I'm painting my '33 Ford traditionally-inspired hotrod pickup truck that is wearing all it's accumulated dents and other signs of use, it's getting an old looking oil based paint. I want it to accumulate more scratches, fades and signs of use as I drive the snot out of it. That's the look I'm after which determined my choice of paint. Plus, it's an experiment that I wanted to try. So far so good.
Of course synthetic enamel can be used as a single or two stage system, just as acrylic enamel (after all they are in the same family of short oil alkyds). Synthetic enamel having to be clear coated is just plain bull plop. Metallics in either case are better off having a clear coat, or a clear reduced topcoat. Basicly following the old Dupont Dulux or Ditzler Ditzco methods....same material....same process.
You're the one who asked me why I wouldn't use a clear coat on a single stage acrylic enamel, obvious reason. And if you don't want to use clear coat on your Rustoleum paint job then more power to ya brotha!
Is there a clear that is intended to be used over Rustoleum industrial grade?
In the 7400 rustoleum industrial series there is a clear. The old DuPont and Ditzler manuals tell you that you can cut the final coat of color between 25-50% with clear or you could apply a clear coat.
I guess I am missing the "obvious" part here. Both SE and AE are in the same family of resins. Both are treated as "single stage" coatings that *can* be cleared or cut with clear. What I am asking is what basis are you using for saying one should be cleared and the other not? So far what you are saying goes against every coatings engineering book I have ever read, so thats why I am curious.
Experiment first because adding clear to paint can change the look of metallics and the color of some opaque colors.
Yes excellent addition. I should have mentioned that. I always shoot full test panels first to proof out a process before doing a large part.
like that color as a matter of fact i like the whole car...........
Thanks for the motivation. I started painting my 65 Barracuda 2 weeks ago. I can't spray it, so roll-on it is. Not very far in. I have the engine bay cleaned and 2 coats of primer on one inner fender. Hope to have the whole engine bay in primer this weekend. I will be using the rustoleum topcoat for the final 4 or so layers. I want to use up the regular rustoleum I have first.
Don't blame the paint for inadequate prep
Even though it's OT, here's a little thread I did on a VW forum showing my Rusto paint job on the Evil Weevil...
The second coat was done with hardener, and 2 years later, the paint still shines like new.
I am gonna bet that Mike and Larry did not use Rustoleum for anything but maybe the door frames on their building.... Those guys were running a shop that people had an expectation for. I can say for sure as a former Body Shop Manager that our paint systems - as I am sure the A Brothers were also - were only top of the line. Thats because I could relax knowing that the paint would meet everyone's expectations....
That said, This post is not about some shop painting your car... It is about owner/builder/painters trying to participate in this awesome hobby and build as awesome a car or truck possible for the money - painting it yourself at your place... No shops, no lifetime gurantee... Just good old backyard hot rodding....
Gotta love a thread with this kind of longevity, eh?
New question--about the paint itself. So I know that primer is more porous, etc. so the topcoat can stick to it. What happens if I use scuff pads to take the shine off of a Rustoleum paint job? I want grey, but not primer grey.
One of my former toothless hillbilly employees told me that he used to work at a body shop and could paint one of my truck's for less than fifty bucks. The Rustoleum red came out way better than I expected. It faded quickly though. Might have been due to the gasoline thinner he used.
Nothing will happen, other than achieving your goal of a dull gray paint.
No. That would have been Japan Black until the 20's, nitrocellulose lacquer from the 20's until the 50's, then acrylic lacquer. Oil based paints dried too slowly for mass production.
Lacquer was mainly used on GM cars because Dupont owned a part of GM and Ford and Chrysler mainly used Enamel (in part because of Duponts relation to GM).
I was under the impression that alkyd enamels (like rustoleum) were used until 1970 when regulations for VOC's phased their use out.
Just don't polish after your last wetsand if you want a "satin" finish
my '32 sedan completly done with Rust-Oleum combi color paint, body+chassis+engine
NO wet sanding or polished afterwards !
Ive shot a lot of rustoleum over the years, I like the product and use it on frames, underbody etc. I prefer the Valspar line of tractor enamels over rustoleum. I get it.
After I spend the time to block out a vehicle, I'd choose a single stage auto enamel every time. You can get a gallon and a half of sprayable for $150.
Nice. You realize you may now be the first SHOW CAR Rustoleum paint post yet ??
I love this thread. You have a great looking car....especially with the paint choice. Greatness man. She looks great in her show paddock for sure.
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