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Painted my car with rustoleum

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KaiserKruiser, Oct 25, 2009.

  1. Can you roll on the primer too?
     
  2. aerometalworker
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 84

    aerometalworker
    Member

    Why would you use a clear on the Synthetic Enamel and not the Acrylic Enamel? Oh and BTW, Acrylic Enamel is a Copolymer of Synthetic(Alkyd) and Acrylic TPA (Acrylic Lacquer). SE should clean out easily with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, but avoid acetone for cleaning.
     
  3. Dillrod
    Joined: Aug 21, 2008
    Posts: 19

    Dillrod
    Member

    i paint my cousins dirt track cars with it and it holds up and looks good.. yes you can roll on the primer it will cover any heavy sand scratches left in the filler work
     
  4. falconvan
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,054

    falconvan
    Member
    from festus, Mo

    Single stage eurothane has gotten so cheap why screw with the Rustoleum? TCP Global sells a eurothane + hardner for less than $100 a gallon and it sprays & looks awesome. 144 color choices, too.
     
  5. Last edited: Oct 18, 2012
  6. robyyo
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 235

    robyyo
    Member
    from Orange CA

    The acrylic enamel I'm referring to is a single stage, that means you don't need to clear over it. Rustoleum isn't a single stage paint, if you want to have the added protection then you need to use a clear coat over it simple as that. And like I said earlier you can get a single stage acrylic enamel for dirt cheap nowadays so there's really no advantage to using rustoleum.
     
  7. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    My personal opinion: it depends on the vehicle and it's intended purpose. If I'm painting an NCRS Vette built to be a trailer queen, you bet it's getting a lacquer or acrylic urethane paint. If I'm painting my '33 Ford traditionally-inspired hotrod pickup truck that is wearing all it's accumulated dents and other signs of use, it's getting an old looking oil based paint. I want it to accumulate more scratches, fades and signs of use as I drive the snot out of it. That's the look I'm after which determined my choice of paint. Plus, it's an experiment that I wanted to try. So far so good.
     
  8. aerometalworker
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 84

    aerometalworker
    Member

    Of course synthetic enamel can be used as a single or two stage system, just as acrylic enamel (after all they are in the same family of short oil alkyds). Synthetic enamel having to be clear coated is just plain bull plop. Metallics in either case are better off having a clear coat, or a clear reduced topcoat. Basicly following the old Dupont Dulux or Ditzler Ditzco methods....same material....same process.
     
  9. robyyo
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 235

    robyyo
    Member
    from Orange CA

    You're the one who asked me why I wouldn't use a clear coat on a single stage acrylic enamel, obvious reason. And if you don't want to use clear coat on your Rustoleum paint job then more power to ya brotha!
     
  10. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Is there a clear that is intended to be used over Rustoleum industrial grade?
     
  11. aerometalworker
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 84

    aerometalworker
    Member

    Yes,
    In the 7400 rustoleum industrial series there is a clear. The old DuPont and Ditzler manuals tell you that you can cut the final coat of color between 25-50% with clear or you could apply a clear coat.
     
  12. aerometalworker
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 84

    aerometalworker
    Member

    I guess I am missing the "obvious" part here. Both SE and AE are in the same family of resins. Both are treated as "single stage" coatings that *can* be cleared or cut with clear. What I am asking is what basis are you using for saying one should be cleared and the other not? So far what you are saying goes against every coatings engineering book I have ever read, so thats why I am curious.
     
  13. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    Experiment first because adding clear to paint can change the look of metallics and the color of some opaque colors.
     
  14. aerometalworker
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 84

    aerometalworker
    Member

    Yes excellent addition. I should have mentioned that. I always shoot full test panels first to proof out a process before doing a large part.
     
  15. joee
    Joined: Oct 9, 2009
    Posts: 472

    joee
    Member

    like that color as a matter of fact i like the whole car...........
     
  16. Thanks for the motivation. I started painting my 65 Barracuda 2 weeks ago. I can't spray it, so roll-on it is. Not very far in. I have the engine bay cleaned and 2 coats of primer on one inner fender. Hope to have the whole engine bay in primer this weekend. I will be using the rustoleum topcoat for the final 4 or so layers. I want to use up the regular rustoleum I have first.
     
  17. Don't blame the paint for inadequate prep :D
     
  18. Even though it's OT, here's a little thread I did on a VW forum showing my Rusto paint job on the Evil Weevil...

    http://volksrods.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31850

    The second coat was done with hardener, and 2 years later, the paint still shines like new.
     
  19. I am gonna bet that Mike and Larry did not use Rustoleum for anything but maybe the door frames on their building.... Those guys were running a shop that people had an expectation for. I can say for sure as a former Body Shop Manager that our paint systems - as I am sure the A Brothers were also - were only top of the line. Thats because I could relax knowing that the paint would meet everyone's expectations....

    That said, This post is not about some shop painting your car... It is about owner/builder/painters trying to participate in this awesome hobby and build as awesome a car or truck possible for the money - painting it yourself at your place... No shops, no lifetime gurantee... Just good old backyard hot rodding....
     
  20. Gotta love a thread with this kind of longevity, eh?
     
  21. Daddiojoe
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 123

    Daddiojoe
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    New question--about the paint itself. So I know that primer is more porous, etc. so the topcoat can stick to it. What happens if I use scuff pads to take the shine off of a Rustoleum paint job? I want grey, but not primer grey.

    Thanks....
     
  22. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,895

    Clik
    Member

    One of my former toothless hillbilly employees told me that he used to work at a body shop and could paint one of my truck's for less than fifty bucks. The Rustoleum red came out way better than I expected. It faded quickly though. Might have been due to the gasoline thinner he used.
     
  23. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Nothing will happen, other than achieving your goal of a dull gray paint.
     
  24. bobscogin
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,761

    bobscogin
    Member

    No. That would have been Japan Black until the 20's, nitrocellulose lacquer from the 20's until the 50's, then acrylic lacquer. Oil based paints dried too slowly for mass production.

    Bob
     
  25. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,633

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

    Lacquer was mainly used on GM cars because Dupont owned a part of GM and Ford and Chrysler mainly used Enamel (in part because of Duponts relation to GM).
     
  26. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 815

    Diavolo
    Member

    I was under the impression that alkyd enamels (like rustoleum) were used until 1970 when regulations for VOC's phased their use out.
     
  27. Just don't polish after your last wetsand if you want a "satin" finish
     
  28. lil32b
    Joined: Aug 3, 2006
    Posts: 23

    lil32b
    Member
    from Belgium

    my '32 sedan completly done with Rust-Oleum combi color paint, body+chassis+engine
    NO wet sanding or polished afterwards !
     

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    A Boner and kidcampbell71 like this.
  29. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,122

    indyjps
    Member

    Ive shot a lot of rustoleum over the years, I like the product and use it on frames, underbody etc. I prefer the Valspar line of tractor enamels over rustoleum. I get it.
    After I spend the time to block out a vehicle, I'd choose a single stage auto enamel every time. You can get a gallon and a half of sprayable for $150.
     
  30. Nice. You realize you may now be the first SHOW CAR Rustoleum paint post yet ??

    I love this thread. You have a great looking car....especially with the paint choice. Greatness man. She looks great in her show paddock for sure.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2014
    A Boner likes this.

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