The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KaiserKruiser, Oct 25, 2009.
Did U use equal parts of the black & red?
Makes perfect sense to me, looks good, and it protects and preserves the car. It's not a high dollar car, but if in time it becomes one, it will have survived because someone took the time to preserve it with a cheap paint job rather than let it rot because he didn't have the $ to "do it right".
I did the same thing to a 50 Ford truck, using a vacuum cleaner powered spray gun (early HVLP?), over 30 years ago, that truck is still around, repainted, but at least what I did kept it around for the next guy.
I don't think I'd paint my 54 with it, but I've got a 36 ford truck that probably will get it.
Don,t think that little DAF will go that fast . Not even 126 kph. But they do go just as fast in reverse as in forward. Nice little car, how did it get in CA ?
What color choices are there and what type of Rustoleom should be used? I see that there are a bunch of different types out there? I've been considering doing this for a few years now.... roll it on, wet sand it flat.
Does it come in gloss finishes too, or just satin?
I used to do custom painting for a living now its a hobby I enjoy. I had a friend bring me a car he bought that was flat black rustoleum, it looked decent but he wanted something more, when we TRIED to sand it it just gummed up the paper so we took the heavy paper to it and got it knocked down ok, but once the sealer/primer hit it, it reacted bad. We gave it a fresh flat black rustoleum job (it looked real good) and then sold it quick. Just my personal experience w/painting over Rustoleun. I use rustoleum religiously on frames and under carriage with no problems.
I would have never thought I'd saw a DAF here on the HAMB!
My dad's first car was this one exactly. He bought it new in the late '50s.
only if you want to go with a "real" paint job, do you have to strip it.
natch, you can spray the cheap stuff right over the top again.
by real, i mean you are gonna do all the proper prep and buy expensive paint..
Yep, Rustoleum is such a terrific product that Earl Scheib is going to start using it, and offering their famous "any car, any color, for just $29.95" promotion once again! Cool!!!
HEY ED, Thanks for turning me on to yet ANOTHER rustoleum thread!!
Hell on our desert truck (wich gets destroyed every outing) we still put a "real" paint job on it? I guess its just a matter of pride!
WELL! I painted my daily driver/shop truck '79 Dodge P/U a couple weeks ago and it cost me just over $60 bucks from Tractor Supply (Valspar). I bought a gallon of truck & equipment white enamel and a quart of tractor green and it came out kind of a seafoam or mint green. I used all the stuff they said on the can, reducer and hardener. It's kind of flat but I don't really care I still get the thumbs up at gas stations and as I drive it down the road. The doors will be lettered soon and it will be pretty much done as far as I'm concerned.
This old truck is ready for winter now and I'm hoping the new paint will keep it from forming some of the rust that will happen being they put salt down on the roads.
Some before and after shots.
Nothing wrong with rustoleum, many moons ago they used it so it aint that bad. I put it on my '31 and it will the only paint it get.
But what me and some other Dutch roddernuts in this part of the world interest is how such a ugly Dutch car end up in your part of the world. Like to hear your story.
This is basically what was used years ago to do the enamel paint jobs. It is still the preparation that is the key and a quality thinner, temperature appropriate, a spray booth and a painter that knows what he or she is doing and you have a real paint job.
I have totalled several pairs of shoes from rattlecan Rustoleum overspray. I'm guessing spraying a whole car is pretty messy???
I had primer on the car (Rustoleum's RUSTY METAL) just so the body didn't surface rust while I was deciding on primer.
2 parts red to 1 part Black
More info on my paint job found here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407007
Look's fine. Them 'pro' nay sayer's kin 'git bent' know wadda ah mean, Vern?
From another site.
Looks fine to me. At least as good as it looked from the factory, and probably better.
paint looks great
Heck, if Oldsmobile, Pontiac and Saturn had used Rustoleum instead of that other nonsense, they'd still be in business! Someone on the HAMB should pass this idea on to General Motors! I wonder how they could have overlooked this wondrous product?
I love the people that have a knee jerk reaction to something that they dont like or dont approve of.........
just think - if we all thought the way you did - the world would be so boring
lighten up -its just a car- it can be redone
Using Rust O is what makes the entire lifestyle worth keeping. It's his and it adds a little bit of his flavor to HIS ride (looks great by the way). Me personally.....rattle rattle......psssssss.......rattle rattle, then I run a shopping cart into it, cuz that moron in the Accord will do it at Albertsons anyway.....
BAHAHA! Are you kidding? Its a DAF. He just DOUBLED it. Besides I doubt he's restoring it just to sell it. Most people are upside down on their investment and "worth" vs what-someone-will-actually-pay price anyway.
(Got nothing against the car. Serves your purpose and you are happy with the results, rock on!)
Im impressed how many guys know what a Daf is.
I had to buy one to find out.
And this guy is right you dont restore a Daf to make money you restore a Daf for the fun in it.
Did my old 63 Willys truck with a Rust-o red paint job several years ago...came out alright...sold the truck to a friend...he still drives it around...it has lost some of it's shine...use to like those big ass 4x4's
what he said. spray bomb and 1-shot rules! There ya go!!!
That cracked me up!
Such comments are just a reflection ......
Oh yes "I" can. Maybe you can't, but if "you" can't it's a matter of skill and knowledge. You could learn a thing or two, and whilst doing it add to your repertoire, (or not if you so choose), but ignorance of the facts isn't a valid 'excuse' to ignore only one method in the gambit of methods available. Experience and knowledge are the basis for advancing a skill.
You, (and anybody else) that equates the cost of paint or the chemical base of it to a quality job are merely ignorant of the differences. Anybody with half a brain knows that the big money in a good paint job is the labor/body work/ getting it ready for the paint. Your comment, "a real paint job", insinuating that oil is not real, is lame-brained. A 'real paint job' is one that is applied correctly, by a painter that is diversified and skilled in all phases of the gambit. If you "can't" do oil, then you ain't a "real" painter.
On the other hand, if you choose not to do oil, (or hand rubbed lacquer)then that's a personal choice and we all respect personal choices, but dissing a technique by throwing in red-herring fiction is just showing your ignorance of the facts. A lot of old car guys that I know, enjoy polishing and buffing, for them high priced paints are a luxury. Actually, for some it is therapy. For others, it's a way to spend more time with the car.
Lacquers and Oil bases were the norm on almost all automobiles, worldwide, up until the mid to late 50's. Lacquers required extensive buffing after application. Oils took a long time to dry. The primary reasons the manufacturers went to acrylics was it eliminated the need to buff out lacuers and eliminating the long dry time on Oils. Cutting the time on the assembly line was an economy measure.
Stripping the old paint off when repainting a car was 'not' the norm. The general way, with both Laquers and Oils, was to wet-sand by hand, apply a compatable sealer/primer and go on with the new. I have done all of cars that I've painted that way, have never stripped one down to the bare metal. No (big-deal reason), just know what works for me and that's the way I do it. If you haven't, or choose to go to all of the work and strip it down to bare metal, many do, go for it. But when the doing is done, only the guy that painted it knows for sure, because after the fact one can't tell the difference.
For that matter, the Hot rod Nash will be the first, that I stripped down to the bare metal, since it's obvious it will need it, with all that rust I'm not looking forward to that task.
If it's not a high dollar car, why bother with high dollar paint? Sounds like if you are willing to put in the time, these Rust-o-leum jobs turn out great.
What primer is being used?
Kaiser I like it. Looks fine. I have no idea how you can price that DAF now for resale. I don't think one has ever sold for more than the original price. Hope you have good replacement value insurance! LOL.
Drive the shit out of it. Well ok that is what you have to do to go anywhere in actuality.
Lets see your Skoda or Volga (remember Volga's need two tone job though to cut the body lines up a little.)
Lets see those Rustoleum fades or flipflop jobs.
Okay, a newbie here, but what the hell. I tend to have reversed my ideas on time and material a little over the years.... The materials can vary in price, granted...but my TIME is what is valuable. I tend to take some time shopping for the best price on the best product, but when it comes down to it, if I valued my time at what I am getting paid per hour at work, my prep on a project far outweighs the difference in value between an average and a premium product... regardless of whether it's paint or whatever. I pay up, and if I screw up a premium product application, it's my fault not the product. My .02...
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