I got my hands on some PPG MTK Acrylic Urethane, it came with the hardener, but as I am not a painter, was wondering if I could try rolling it on as opposed to spraying it HVLP. I've never used the stuff but wanted to know if anyone knew anything about it, or if it could be done without a HVLP gun. Thanks
i've been spraying PPG for the last 10 years and i'm not familiar with this product that you have but what i do know is that the only thing that i'd use with a roller is primer. a few years ago there were some (and probably still around) primers that you could roll on. we tried it but quickly went back to our guns. i'd prefer a gun over a roller unless i'm painting my living room. your local autobody supply store will be able to fully assist ya, or go to PPG's web site. hope this was of some help. -j
NO way. It's gotta be sprayed. Wear a full suit with respirator cause the stuff gives off isocyanates which can cause cancer, etc.
I've seen some paint jobs that looked like they were done with a roller, but never actually heard anyone ask if that was an acceptable method!!! There is no reason why ya can't roll it on, although it's a very inefficient way to paint. You'll be be using an awful lot of material. What are you wanting to paint?? A complete car?.... parts? Before you open the cans to look inside you need to be aware that this stuff is DANGEROUS if it isn't handled properly. You say you aren't a painter so the assumption is that you aren't familiar with the chemicals you are considering using. I'm not trying to talk you out of using this paint-it's an excellent product-just trying to caution you into getting a little knowledge before you step in. The best thing I can recommend is to visit your local paint jobber and pick up some data sheets (basic instructions on how to use the product) and ask them some questions. Good Luck
You don't need a HVLP gun to spray it. A conventional gun will work also. Sound like you got the paint on the cheap...so why not buy a cheap gun and learn to spray. Ditto on the respirator.
If you spray it without a respirator, you could count on kidney failure pretty soon afterwards. Its pretty nasty stuff so use the right gear.
Like I said, I'm no painter and I don't know nothing, that's why I'm asking here, I will check out the specs on the paint at the local store, I called them and the guy at the store didn't make it seem like a big deal, but he said he didn't really know if I could roll it on either. I remember a few years ago on this forum someone had a question about painting cars and someone put a link to a mopar forum (I think) where a thread had been started by someone who had painted countless cars with nothing but a roller and sandpaper, and they all looked terrific. And as I am only doing a small area (rocker panel all the way around) I had thought that I could try putting it on and sanding or something. I don't need to see my reflection or anything, I just want it to look decent and covered. No runs or anything. I would rather not buy a sprayer, but if I have to I will, I was just seeing if anybody knew if it would work to roll it on. I hear that it's dangerous....but is it possible to roll it with a respirator on? Would it look semi-decent? Are the steps the same? I have called locally and no one knows. Thanks for all the feedback.
You can apply paint any way you want, just depends on the result you're looking for. MTK is now called Shopline. The earlier MTK line had base/clear in limited colors and a single stage, also in limited color availability. The single stage version of that product was very slow to dry, something in the way of overnight minimum, sometimes longer. Very similar to the old acrylic enamels when used w/out hardeners or accellerators. You should also know to only mix what you need and don't put it back in the can when you're done with it. Let it dry to solid before disposing the unused mat'l. If I recall correctly the mix ratios were on the label, but I think it was 4/2/1 color/solvent/hardener. Hope it helps. I don't recall much more about it...'cept that I painted my wifes Ski-Doo Mach1 with it and it still looks great.
You can roll it if ya want....... I have no doubt that there is someone out there that does it routinely and ends up with adequate results, but I can assure you that, if it's true, he's done it many times and has perfected his style through trial and error. I can't imagine that it is any easier, total labor/time spent wise, than spraying, but to each his own.......He must have a reason for doing it that way. If all your doing is rockers you'll probly pull it off OK, but you got to get your self educated FIRST.......otherwise, you'll not only make a mess, but you'll make yourself(and maybe others) sick. Sorry if I sound like I'm preachin' here, but this stuff isn't the easiest to use(for someone with NO experience)and really can be dangerous. 1. Are you painting a solid color or a metallic??? Makes a big difference in the finished appearance. 2. Are you painting in your garage at home or in any closed in space with poor ventilation? If you or anyone around you can smell the catalyzed paint then it is causing damage that is not reversable. 3. If you paint outside, what's the temp?, painting in direct sunlight or in the shade??? 4. All the rules that apply to prepping for spraying still apply here. Otherwise, your efforts will be for nothing as the paint won't stick anyway... Because of the almost infinite number of variables it's gonna be pretty tough to learn and absorb all the steps you need to pay attention to here. That's not to say you can't get some good advise (already given), It's just that what you want to accomplish is still a complicated process, regardless of the level of quality you are willing to accept. Go to your jobber and ask lots of questions. Make sure you understand the risks, then give it your best shot. You can buy a cheap gun for around 50 to 75 bucks (maybe less). As stated in an earlier post, it don't have to be an HVLP, but they are just as cheap as syphon guns and make less of a mess. I'm making the assumption that if your willing to accept a roller job then the quality of the gun shouldn't be an issue as long as it squirts. you can also swap meet it off later on.
PPG made a big push with roll on primer about 7 years ago. It was designed for spot repairs that most production shops do, not completes The reasoning behind it was not needing to mask as much of the vehicle off i.e. Body guy can prime and block beofre sending it to paint. Some techs didnt like the hard edge it left and felt they couldnt get a good feather edge.Primer is always sanded so how it goes on is some what un important. I do know you can still get the rollers from your local PPG Jobber. Good luck P.S. Go buy a cheap spray gun and give it a shot. Its only primer
A regular gun will create massive amounts of overspray, waste lots of paint, and make your respirator work overtime. You know what. DON'T EVEN USE IT, EVEN IF YOU GOT IT FOR FREE. IT'S JUST NOT WORTH THE HEALTH RISK UNLESS YOU HAVE THE BEST EQUIPMENT AND A SPRAY BOOTH.
MTK is an OMNI S/S line I think? Not great even when applied right. The only thing I would roll-on is deodorant.
MTK is omni single stage, PPG's cheap line, the paint is dangerous, I do not recomend spraying it or rolling it on as the finish will look terrible either way. That said if you do decide to use it you can try rolling it on if it is a solid color, if it is metallic then then you cannot. Rolling it on will always leave a nasty textured finish and you probably don't have a buffer nor do you want to spend the amount of time sanding and buffing on your rockers to make it look decent. If you can spray it safely then go buy a $10 harbor freight gun and when you are done let it harden up in the gun and throw it away.
I think you would be WAY ahead of the game if you just went and bought some spray cans of what you want. Sand your areas smooth. Shoot them with the cans and then hand buff if you want it any smoother. There have been some posts in the past on various forums regarding putting on enamel and oil base pigmented paints with a roller and them sanding them smooth, but doing it with clear is just asking for one hell of a mess. In fact, doing it with any paint is a pretty poor idea. I also agree with the safety aspects mentioned above. There is a reason the cans are marked for "Professional Use Only". Good luck with your project.
If anyone was still wondering, I tried it today and it went on smooth. I used a respirator, so I guess (as California would say) I have a better chance of getting cancer from microwave popcorn. I put it on with a 4" roller, looks good. Better than I expected from all the people that were saying it wouldn't look to swell. The only test now is to see how long it will last. I had the area all prepped, primed and sanded, so hopefully it lasts. It doesn't look like I'm going to have to sand at all, it went on smooth and clean.
Hey, Great that worked out for ya! I've rolled alkyd and some acrylic emamels in solid colours, using slow reducers like xylene and toluene, where drying times weren't an issue. They flowed out jus' as if they'd been sprayed. A metalic finish is possible, but does take some pratice. Swankey Devils c.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
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