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Customs Paint gurus, what’s your weapon of choice?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, May 20, 2019.

  1. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have a Sata 2000 that I have used for years. It has the 1.4 tip.

    I would like to buy a new gun for clears. What’s your weapon of choice to lay it out like glass?
     
  2. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,448

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    I want to be a paint guru. :D I just have an old Binks.
     
    Texas Webb likes this.
  3. 0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,480

    0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Member

    Sata 2000 with 1.4 :) lol . Roothawg , my weapon of choice to lay it out like glass is to use the slowest activator/ hardner I can. The longer the clear stays open the more it flows out. My air preasure is set at about 40 psi at the gun. Sata always recommends about 12 to 15 psi at the tip but I have never been able to get a straight answer from paint reps how to measure that. Atomization and flow out work for me . It is a little trial and error till you find out what the clear your using works best at. Also a friend has a newer Iwata that he really likes . I used it painting one of his customers car's for him when he was recovering from back surgery . Very nice gun but I felt the results where not any better than my 2000's. The last new Sata I tried was a 3000 , not even sure what the new models are call. Hell I still shoot base with my 95 with a 1.3 tip. Good luck Larry
     
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  4. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    You and me both....
     
  5. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    That's what I just did.
     
    clem likes this.
  6. Having the trickest gun is fine, but knowing how to paint is a lot more important. Kind of like mechanic's tools. A $15,000 Snap On set ain't much good if you don't know what you're doin.
     
    Chris Stapley and hoodwinx454 like this.
  7. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 2,308

    oldiron 440
    Member

    $15,000 is the starter set....
    You can spend more that on the box.
     
    Oldb and Unique Rustorations like this.
  8. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,414

    southcross2631
    Member

    I know you don't want to hear it, but I use a 39.00 dollar Harbor Freight gun . Paint 2 cars with it and replace it . It will lay down paint or clear really nice and I am far from a guru.
    The last car 20171218_134908.jpg we shot before I closed my shop in Florida won best paint at the first show the owner entered.
     
  9. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 1,300

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If material wasn't so FRIGGIN EXPENSIVE I'd still be using my Binks Model 7. Just too much wasted product. I have had great results with my DeVilbiss GTI.
    I'm nowhere close to a guru though!
     
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  10. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 510

    Tri-power37
    Member

    Anest iwata best spray guns ever!!
     
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  11. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 5,051

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I’ve got a cheapo I bought at a tool sale, CP maybe? Probably the same as the Harbor Freight one. Painted a couple of vehicles with it, turned out good for an open carport and driveway paint job. Thought about buying a name brand, but can’t justify spending that much when a cheap one does the job as well as I paint.
     
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  12. hoodwinx454
    Joined: Apr 19, 2012
    Posts: 131

    hoodwinx454
    Member

    I almost agree 100%. I have laid down some great paint jobs with cheap guns before and will not knock anyone for using them. I do feel my Binks does atomizes the paint better, but the price difference is a big one just my 2cents. Use what you got


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  13. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,751

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I use a sharpe cobalt with a 1.5 tip I believe. I've laid some nice paint with it.

    Like stated above, I like using slow activator and let it flow. With practice you can "feel" it to a point of almost wanting to run and stopping.

    Also like above, my step dad owned a big body shop in the 70`s in Atlanta and later when he retired he still painted cars and used hf cheap guns, he'd paint 5 or 6 cars then turn it to a primer gun. He could lay paint and proved to me that experience was more important then the name on the gun. At that time I was painting in a body shop using 500 dollar sata`s.
     
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  14. 54EARL
    Joined: Oct 12, 2007
    Posts: 236

    54EARL
    Member
    from Idaho
    1. A-D Truckers

    DeVilbiss GTI here as well, I am no pro however.
     
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  15. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,671

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    I've got 2 Sata's (2000 series) . One for base, and one for clear. I see no reason to buy any more. Have had these since 2001. I've never used a gun that I couldn't make the clear run.
     
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  16. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    Amen.
     
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  17. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,276

    slowmotion
    Member

    No guru for sure here. I paint when I need to. Learned enough in my buddy's shop 35-40yrs ago to be dangerous. Recently shot epoxy primer on a new welding (truck) bed my oldest son just got. Used the HF purple gun, no complaints. Other than what a huge PITA it was prepping & getting this old body climbing around that massive chunk of metal.:eek:.
    He asked me what I thought it would have cost if he'd had a shop do it...I told him "A lot!!!" :D
     
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  18. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 418

    jimgoetz
    Member

    I've got a Binks model 19 that's got to be about 60 years old and still paints well but this one was painted with a Eastwood Concours LT. Got it on sale for under $90. DSCN1199.JPG
     
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  19. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,742

    belair
    Member

    I bought the Eastwood Concourse too. It does a fine job as far as I'm concerned. Those HF guns are good too.
     
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  20. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,961

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I used to think my Sata HVLP was the best. Even used it to shoot Candy. Then I got an Iwata LPH 400 dedicated for clear (when I started getting old dried bits of color in my clearcoats). It's a world of difference! So much better atomization, and even coverage! But it does put on less material in each pass, so I had to do an extra coat or 2 of Candy to get similar color/coverage. Yeah, it worked so well, I now use it for Candy as well as clear.
     
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  21. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,406

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Really don’t matter for allovers
    It’s all technique and prep
    However, the metallic blends is where the higher end guns have an advantage.
    Water base colors usually blend and lay down easier than solvent. Meaning less skill is needed. ( folks like me )
    I have seen the 3m disposable tip guns lay down some nice paint.
    We usually cut and buff the kind of cars we paint more than the average collision paint job. Thus requiring less perfection on spray technique
    There are no right or wrong answers
     
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  22. I have been using a Devilbiss Finishline ever since I converted to HVLP. It works fine & has laid out some show winning jobs, but I am now looking at the Devilbiss Techna Copper to replace it. I still have my original Binks #7 with agitating cup & Sharpe #75 hanging above the mixing table just for the memories! I just shot the 64 GP a few weeks ago. My first time using Tamco products & was very happy with their paint & high solids clear.

    God Bless
    Bill
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

    IMG_20190503_154138513 (800x450).jpg
     
  23. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,406

    anthony myrick
    Member

    we use the Finishlines at school
    they were cost effective
    work well
    we have 3 new Anest Iwatas on the way. one for clear, metallic base and solid base
    cant wait to try em out
     
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  24. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    So, let me play devil's advocate here....

    Why have multiple guns? I have always been too poor to afford multiples. I have a cheap HF primer gun, but for color and clear I have to use the same gun. Poor people have poor ways.
     
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  25. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,406

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Clear is for clear only. No possibility of anything contaminating the paint job. Same with a metallic only gun. No worries of a random flake in a solid color. Some guys have a gun for black only
    I don’t like shooting sealer or primers in the color or clear guns
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2019
  26. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 2,308

    oldiron 440
    Member

    I worked for a guy for a short time that had no less than ten paint guns.
    He thought he was supper painter but that man could run a flat hood.

    I've got a pair of GTIs and a Sata 2000 that have served me well.
    One of the GTIs Has the Chrome war from it in places from all the use. Devibiss has still made parts for them even though the guns are twenty years old. The one thing I do is break my guns down after every use and clean them to perfection, every time. I hate gun f' ups.......
     
  27. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,406

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Also different guns for different products. Kinda like having shallow and deep well sockets in chrome and impact, 6 and 12 point.
    Heavy primer fillers need a bigger tip size than base or clear.
    Some guns use less material
    Some guys can do it all with a #7 binks

    I can run any product know matter how much the gun cost.
     
  28. I understand both lines of thinking & I have been both ways when it comes to multiple guns for different things. Other times I have used the same one for both color & clear, but as stated by another Clean it, Clean it, Clean it & then hope! LOL

    Back in the old days the Sharpe 75 was for primer & enamel jobs, it was great for catalized enamel. The Binks #7 was for laquer & I added the agitating cup to keep the metal flake even. When the first urethane came out ( I believe it was called Starthane) I was using the Binks for color & the Sharpe for Clear.

    The comment about running a flat hood reminded me about my conversation with Tammy from Tamco about their high solids clear. She said be careful as I was used to Duponts high solids clear & that hers had a much higher solids content! My response was....I have a large razor to cut it loose from the floor if needed!!!!!

    God Bless
    Bill
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
     
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  29. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,876

    Roothawg
    Member

    I break my Sata down every time I use it. It's something I have always done. It's always ready to go for the next batch. With that said, it would be nice not to have to break it down between base and clear. That's what started this thread....I need a nice clear gun .
     

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