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Paint gun selection

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gearhead Graphics, Feb 7, 2012.

  1. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,576

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    OK paint gurus, I've been painting a few motorcycle tanks off and on for a while, now im getting more and more people wanting to paint bigger stuff.

    I've just been using a touchup gun with a 1.0 tip. The small cup has worked fine for small stuff, but not working on bigger things.

    I've began looking at guns, and dont really understand the difference between primer, paint and clear guns. (well I do, but not the fine nuances)

    Can someone explain the differences, and reccomend a good all around gun? Not looking for the best there is, but something decent that I can spray all around with?

    Maybe something that I could swap some tips to make it work as a multipurpose kind of deal?
     
  2. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    Your fixin to get alot of different opinions.

    Get your local paint supply to let you demo a gun. Tell them what your looking for in a gun and go from there.

    Im a pro painter. I like DeVilbiss guns.

    If money is not an object, the Iwata guns are great also.

    Both have multiple tips.

    In the end, its just what feels good to you.... Try several before you purchase. Research.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2012
  3. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    I have a couple guns from Iwata. I have a gun for primer and a gun for single stage/basecoat with a replacement diffuser for clear. I am certain that you will not want to shoot your finish out of the same gun as you do your primer. I am no guru, so I will let them explain why, but every painter I have talked to told me it is not a good practice. I personally don't because I shoot heavier filler primers and it needs a larger fluid tip than most finish coatings.
     
  4. northerndave
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 354

    northerndave
    Member
    from Badger MN

    I'm another devilbiss fan, but I also have sharpe, binks and sata.

    A good value for versatility with one gun is the devilbiss finishline guns. You can swap fluid nozzles on a finishline gun without switching air caps or needles. You can run from 1.3 up to 2.2

    I run a 2.2 in my finishline gravity gun as a dedicated polyester primer gun.

    I painted with an old devilbiss JGL body with a siphon cup hanging under it for ever, I sprayed everything from primer to clear with it. I still love that gun.

    These days I run the old JGL as a geveral purpose primer & misc work horse gun.

    I have a set of base/clear sharpe guns (gravity feed) that I like just fine for what they are for.

    I guess I'd suggest the finishline and several fluid nozzles, the gun aint junk and it wont cost an arm and a leg.

    As you acquire more guns for specific tasks, your finishline too will settle into a specific job. But until then it can cover all your bases for you.
     

  5. SaltCityCustoms
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,210

    SaltCityCustoms
    Member

    I'm more of a SATA guy but I do have some devilbiss guns and a couple cheap throw aways. I would get multiple guns if you are serious about painting on a regular basis, for primer you need something with a large tip such as a 1.8-2.0 unless you are using polyester primer then a 2.2 would be more suitable a primer gun doesn't need to be of the best quality as atomization isn't critical, as far as a base/clear gun you could get one for both steps or for best results you would want a different gun for each step but I am going to assume you are looking for a gun for both, a 1.4 tip would be best for spraying clear and base but as far as what brand of gun that would depend on your budget and what kind of gun you like. I use a SATA nr2000 for my base but if want an Iwata then the w400 would work great and if you like the devilbiss then anything from the finishline will work but I would definitely get a separate primer gun as primer is abrasive and will beat the hell out of the gun (thats what my cheapies are used for).
     
  6. DavidL
    Joined: Oct 6, 2006
    Posts: 82

    DavidL
    Member

    I'm in the market for a new "affordable" paint gun as well so on this tread comes at a good time. While answering Gearhead's questions, can anyone also give the pros/cons with using the DeVilbiss DeKups?

    Thanks
     
  7. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    Total waste of money.. They suck donkey balls. Thats all Im gona say.

    Im sure some people like'm.
     
  8. Cutlassboy68
    Joined: Dec 3, 2011
    Posts: 593

    Cutlassboy68
    BANNED
    from Boone, Nc

    I love my Iwata LPH-400 but its way expensive... I would recommend a SATA JET... I use a med sized cup. With the big cup after long long time painting your arm starts to get tired... Unless you got one of them 'baitin arms that is...
     
  9. northerndave
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 354

    northerndave
    Member
    from Badger MN


    I have friends that are fond of the 3M offering that competes with "DeKups"

    The 3M name slips my mind at the moment though.

    I'm still old school, try to figure my mix volume as best I can to minimize waste and I rinse the cup, put it away wet.




    HVLP's are ....OK if that's all you can find but I much preffer a conventional spray gun running lower air pressure.

    Run a conventional gun with the air as low as you can go to still pull off a decent patern and atomization. (Many times 25 psi is plenty)

    You'll save paint, save air and keep the overspray down.

    Here's what I think of HVLP.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    overspray
    Member

    DITTO!! I'm not the greatest fan of HVLP either.

    Gearhead--Check this thread I did for Eyeball when he was getting ready to paint his 32 roadster. I did some explaining on different guns. I like Sharpe, SATA, and Iwata with an occational Binks thrown in.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225633&highlight=eyeball+overspray&showall=1

    overspray
     
  11. 345winder
    Joined: Oct 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,059

    345winder
    BANNED

    3m's PPS system is one of thee best out there,, once you use it, you will never want to sit there and waste all the time cleaning out your gun again,(also comes in handy when doing overalls!) BUT ,all of the liner sytems can be expenseve if you are a back yard guru. or tiny body shop.......the upfront expense of going to any liner/lid (which isnt very large by anymeans,) is only justified by the quantity of work that goes through your doors...if you are only gonna paint one or two cars a year ,forgetabout it,,,but it does make things so much smoother,,,,,btw,,coming from a long time Sata user,,, my choice is an IWATA LPH 400when spraying solvent..the supernova and devilbiss tekna are very nice so far from what i can tell with the waterborne envirobase.... :D
     
  12. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    34winder is correct....... unless your pumpin out a couple cars a day, the bag systems are not cost effective. Its not for a custom painter.
     
  13. paint2live
    Joined: Apr 9, 2011
    Posts: 23

    paint2live
    Member

    I have to say I have 2 Iwata LPH400 that i use everyday that are over 10 years old!! They may not be on the cheap side but worth every penny... a few small jobs and theyre paid for.. I now use the blown out 1.4 for all my primer needs and the 1.3 sprays solid basecoats like nothing eles. Like most painters I use different guns for different jobs, nothing but my Sata 2000 or my Kosmoski Devilbiss for metalics and pearls, both 1.3's .. And the best clear gun in the world Iwata LPH400 1.4! Think of it as an investment ,the right tools will make a huge difference. Good luck man now go paint the town red!
     
  14. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,471

    ryno
    Member

    Check out the iwata "air gunza" line. Fairly inexpensive many tips to choose from.
    I just bought a 1.4 1.6 2.2 and 3.0. Spray out nice. Not a Sata but I doubt you'll know the difference.
     
  15. HELLMET
    Joined: Apr 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,606

    HELLMET
    Member

    ^^^what he said all good advice.
     
  16. Cutlassboy68
    Joined: Dec 3, 2011
    Posts: 593

    Cutlassboy68
    BANNED
    from Boone, Nc

    Hey man... Didnt know if you knew or not but there is a metallic cap for the LPH400... Its orange and sprays metallics and pearls like a dream... I just swap my cap out for standard colors and metallics/pearls.. And a SATA RP for clear
     
  17. fiddy
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    fiddy
    Member

    Binks M1-g!!!!!!!!!
     
  18. morac41
    Joined: Jul 23, 2011
    Posts: 532

    morac41
    Member

    Hi .. I have and use a LPH 400 IWATA..go to be the best clear gun I have ever owned..used...not cheap .. but worth every cent if you want a dead flat finish.....Doug
     
  19. gerry miller
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 108

    gerry miller
    Member

    I have Iwata lph 400, Tips to change viscosity over $100 each. Best clearcoat gun I have used.
     
  20. northerndave
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 354

    northerndave
    Member
    from Badger MN

    I've sprayed no less than 20 thousand gallons of automotive paint over the years and I find myself embarassed of the fact I have never heard of iwata spray guns before.


    Must be a territory thing.
     
    Germ likes this.
  21. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    Dave, The company name is actually Anest-Iwata. Can't hardly open an autobody supply catalog without seeing them now. My old school painter friends haven't heard of them either, they still rely on the Devilbiss and Binks guns they have used since the 70's.
     
  22. darkk
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 456

    darkk
    Member

    I've replied to quite a few of this exact question. You can buy a cheap paint gun, It doesn't have to cost you $200-$500 to fit your needs. I had a $29 cheapie binks #7 clone gun that I bought in an emergency situation one day that ended up being my best clear coat gun. I used that gun for 16 years before retiring. I'm sure you can find something reasonably priced that will work for you. As long as the paint gun has no defects, it can be adjusted within reason for your paint needs. Any gun you buy is going to have a slight learning curve attached to it. Evey one is different, learn to use it. And for the I gotta have the most expensive paint gun out there guys, I'm not saying your $500 gun is not worth it, just in most cases it's not always necessary. Paint quality is mostly the painter holding the gun...
     
  23. Cutlassboy68
    Joined: Dec 3, 2011
    Posts: 593

    Cutlassboy68
    BANNED
    from Boone, Nc

    I agree with Darkk, unless your painting enough to justify an expensive gun theres absolutely no point. Some you do save some money by not having to spray as much material, ie, 2 coats of a heavy metallic covering as well as 3-4 from a different gun... I had a Finish line i use to love when i first started, bought the paint gun, a primer gun, and a touch up gun in a kit for $100, got a few years of use out of it. Would actually recommend one...
     
  24. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,576

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Thanks for all the advice guys, Not looking to drop a lot of cash, i do maybe 4 paint jobs a year. granted, with more ability from a gun i might do more work too, but then i need more air compressor and more shop space....
    might do something like a cheapo HF gun for laying out primer and then some of these others that have been reccommended in the 150-200 range sound like viable options.
     
  25. nashvegas99
    Joined: Feb 29, 2008
    Posts: 526

    nashvegas99
    Member

    i have and use the hf tin can remedy... I think it's the best out there!


    just kidding, i can't even find a worthy affordable project to paint so I reckon i don't need a paint gun right now. Seriously though, I have a CH paint gun and use it on my woodworking and projects and does well for that kind of stuff.
     
  26. choppedmerc
    Joined: Feb 18, 2009
    Posts: 95

    choppedmerc
    Member
    from Spokane

    I agree with these guys. you dont need a spendy gun. I use sharpes finex (base line more reasonable gun $125ish) for sealer and primer. when I am doing small jobs like gas pumps, minibikes, gokarts. I usually use my finex 1.4, instead of getting my Sata's messy. I would advise anyone to buy 2 guns, finex 1.4 and a 1.8. the 1.8 for primer and sometimes sealer, and the 1.4 for base and clear, and single stage. I myself spray clear through a 1.3 sata, but the 1.4 works just fine too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2012
  27. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,698

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No. 7 binks for primer and Binks BBR for finish, although I've been trying to get a handle on a couple of Mattson hvlps to reduce material costs.
     
  28. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,576

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

  29. jonahboo
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 311

    jonahboo
    Member
    from NJ

  30. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    overspray
    Member

    I looked at that deal for a friend. I thought it was an excellent buy for a starter/semi pro set-up. I have too many guns already, but I would buy that 3 gun combo. I do keep a $15.00 HF 1.4 gravity feed in the cabinet. When Somebody wants to borrow my $$$ SATA I hand them a new in the box $15.00 HF and send them on their way. Sometimes it even comes back.
     

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