Technical Paint Fix

Repaint of Matte black to Hotrod Flat black . Everything else turned out OK except the roof, has lighter spots, picture shows somewhat Is there anything that can be done except repaint . Had searched on here some post said if you buff it will be shiny but same color and another said it would appear lighter color

 

Why the aversion to repainting? Its probably the quickest, easiest and even cheapest option.

Vinyl wrap?

Chris

 

Its already been all repainted, just bad roof , don't want to vinyl wrap now

 

Just repaint the roof. Easier. Buffing changes satin colors. You will not have the light color with the repaint because you only have to paint the roof. Instead of rushing to do the whole car.
I would give the roof some color with metalflake.

 

Hit it with a scotchbrite or some 1000 sandpaper & see if it mellow it out.

 

What kind of paint? Almost looks like lacquer with blush from high humidity. If that's what it is, sometimes a light spray with thinner will clear it out.

 

That's what the plan is, just was wondering if something else might work. The entire car was painted, just roof didn't turn out. Thanks

 

That's what I was looking for something to try, can't really loose if it doesn't work do the repaint. Thanks

 

It was Excel Hotrod Flat Black with Medium activator. It was a hot day when done high 80's

 

I’ve only shot a few pieces with flat but pushing the wet edge from one side to the other prevents streaking.
Friend of mine has shot a good bit, on a roof he doesn’t paint like normal. He’ll spray to the center on one side then continue from the center to the edge of the other side.
When spraying a hood, we’ll push the wet edge from one side to the other.
When spraying an entire car, he’s avoided streaks by using two painters. Start in the center of the roof, work outward, then each painter works around the car down the sail panels, qtrs….
Flat single stage seems to not like blending back into a starting point by the time you have sprayed back to that starting point.
Temp is important, especially on large panels.
Try spraying it early in the morning when temps are low with that medium activator.

 

Thanks for the good information, by pushing the wet edge you mean start from one side and work all the way to other?

 

Yes.
Sometimes folks start in the middle, then work outward.
That’s ok with base and clear for the most part.
Flat colors, in my experience, looks better worked from one side to the other.
They seem to flash quickly and leave a streak if started in the middle then walking to the other side and starting back in the middle.
Hope that kinda makes sense.

 

Like Anthony said, start on the edge and work to the centre and the get around to the other side quick smart and spray toward the edge. To me it looked like you started from the centre, sprayed to the edge and then when you started spraying from the other side you've oversprayed the side you've already done. You can get away with lacquer or something slow drying but not quick drying on a hot panel.

Dang it, Anthony types faster.

 

Yes it does, Thanks

 

Thanks for the information,

 

Also always use the slowest activator/hardener available. It will keep the surface open longer and provide better flow out. Those factory pack kits like that kick way to fast to begin with and heat and humidity makes the problem twice as bad. Better luck second time around. Larry

 

I have found flat or semi gloss, you shoot it just like normal paint (ie) Don't shoot it like you want it to look, shoot it like normal paint and it will turn out like it's suppose to look. Make any sense? Lippy

 

Thanks for information. I haven't done a lot of painting, will a slower activator change the color at all ? , want to match bottom

 

Thanks, I'm not a experienced painter, what do you mean by" normal paint and not how you want it to look" ?

 

Won't change the colour, or shouldn't.

I think whats meant here is that when applying satin or matt finish you aren't looking for the finished look when applying it. It should go on looking wet and glossy, and when its flowed out and dried the desired finish will magically emerge. 'Normal paint', which I take will mean gloss finished, goes on looking wet and shiny, or it should do. Paint going on matt looking will be too dry (too much air / not enough paint/ viscocity issues/ spray distance wrong). I'm no expert either but seem to be able to muddle through with nice results!

Chris

 

Agree, reshoot, slowest activator, overlap on each pass should be at least 50%, push the wet edge across the panel.

With heavy overlap on each pass - you may need to reduce your paint flow out of the gun a bit, or speed up your gun travel. Roof being reasonably flat, will help prevent too much paint build and reduce runs.

Personally - I'd buff the whole car then wax it. Flat paint - buffed has a unique "muted" shine that is quite nice. It's easier to care for long term. But up to you.

 

Great point.
Spray it glossy, like normal, it flattens as it dries.
If ya try to spray it with little gloss, it will be very grainy.

 

Yes, that's what I was trying in my oddball way to get across. Lippy

 

I think I know what you mean, without knowing your not suppose to I waxed and buff the Matte finish it had before painting it , came out slight shine but still had dull color

 

Shot too far away with your gun swings, re paint is needed, stand on a chair so you can keep the gun at the right angle.

 

We always kept the 5 gallon thinner cans in the paint booth to stand on.

 

No. pigment is pigment. The activator controls dry time and binds chemical makeup to give it durability. slower activators/hardeners allow the paint to breath longer. Set fluid nozzle at about half to three quarter pull and adjuster your fan spray into a narrow stream ad then adjust it out till you see the pattern reach its limit. Anymore and you will start to blow away the center of your spray pattern, shoot a couple test patterns and teak the fluid nozzle from there till you get a nice medium wet oval pattern. And shoot with a 50 to 75 percent overlap. Alot of guys think if you open up the gun all the way they get more coverage. Paint is about flow an atomization, and it takes practice to figure it out. every brand of paint is different and so is every gun. In the immortal words of custom painter Jon Kozmoski, a man with a full pull is a man out of control! lol Best of luck Larry

 

If opening up all the way, move faster
That’s how a friend of mine sprays.
im in the 3/4 opened up range most of the time

 

Thanks to everyone for the good advice.

 

Looks like a good opportunity to fix it by throwing some lace up there and give it a lace paint job. Dark charcoal paint or gloss black through the lace would be cool on that car.