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P15-D24 to 95-2001 Explorer Disk conversion.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by yourpc48, May 27, 2012.

  1. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,321

    derbydad276
    Member

    dang!!!!! why couldnt I find this thread 3 months ago when I was looking at a 52 plymouth
    I got scared away because it needed brake work and all the kits on line were way out of my price range

    do everyone a favor trace that bracket out on paper and convert it to a pdf file
    that we could copy when printed

    the picture image over sizes
     
  2. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    Thats odd. The images at http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm
    are pdf. I printed them here at the house and they printed to scale. Sorry I dont know what to do from there other than snail mail to someone...
     
  3. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,540

    gatz
    Member

    just to clarify...
    you used the FRONT hubs/discs off a 96 Explorer for the fronts of your car, right?
    I've seen the Explorer mentioned before as a donor for earlier Mopars; is there any particular reason?

    How much do these add to the stock hub flange? In other words, how much farther out do the wheels end up being?
     
  4. ntxcustoms
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 910

    ntxcustoms
    Member
    from dfw

    Use 4x4 explorer rotor hats and your stock mopar hubs. Puts the wheel out maybe a 1/4" or 3/16ths"? It will be the difference between the thickness of the stock mopar drum and the explorer hat. Why explorer? Because it's almost a perfect fit and very plentiful.
     
  5. supervert
    Joined: Mar 8, 2009
    Posts: 433

    supervert
    Member

    just the sploder disc, you retain the stock mopar hubs
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013
  6. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    Yes....grind the rivets off the outside of the drum and knock the drum off the hub...then VIOLA...you have a hub!

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  7. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,540

    gatz
    Member

    OK, thanks

    btw, what years Explorer ...or any year will work ?
     
  8. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    I bought all my parts off rock auto for a 99 awd and 4wd are the same parts. I think 96-04 are all the same

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  9. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    96 to 2001 are the years. I stumbled upon this by accident and made it work. I was browsing the wrecking yard to measure the rear end in an explorer for a swap in my P15 and noticed the 4x4 rotor looked like it would work on my car after removing the drum from the rotor. I took some measurements and checked. It seemed like it would work so I got a complete set of rotors and calipers from the wrecking yard to play with. The how to above is the result of my tinkering.

    By the way. I never had a chance to swap out the rear end of the explorer with the original however I had purchased one about 2 weeks before I sold my 47. It is a little bit narrower than the original rear end but would give you disks in the rear as well as a better highway gear. Be careful not to get a gear ratio higher than 3.55 to 1 unless you have swapped out the engine and/or transmission. Many people say the 3.73 is almost perfect. With this swap you would also need to replace or modify your driveshaft.
     
  10. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    Ok I'm placing an order for all my bearings from rockauto as we speak I was wanting to order the brake hoses as well I know you said possibly Mazda 3, but I found a few different years. If anyone has any idea what year Mazda, or a part number I'd appreciate it. If not I'm sure I'll find something by digging through the shelves at the local parts house. It wouldn't be the first time I'm just trying to save a buck!
     
  11. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    Unfortunately I dont remember and dont have the car any more. Im pretty sure it was a 93 mx3. The hoses that I used had just a slightly larger fitting at the end than the bolt that holds it onto the caliper but the brass washer seals seated just fine. The other thing I remember is that they had a bracket clamped in the middle of them. I left the bracket so it could bump a tie rod during hard turns so the hose wouldnt rub. Just dont forget that you will need to re-locate the hoses to the rear of the upper shock mount and your hoses will be a lot longer than the originals. I had to move the mount several inches back from the shock and I had to kind of loop the hose in such a way that they would allow me to turn lock to lock and not rub the tire on the frame.
    Heres an image of the hose from NAPAs website.
    1071330.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  12. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    OH yeah. Dont get the hose mount too far back or you could hit it with the tire during hard turns. Also if I remember correctly I ran the metal part of the hose towards the front of the car and looped it back but Im not 100% sure on that. If I remember correctly that was the only way I could get it to not pinch something. Since the originals are square and the head on these are round it gives you a little more room to angle these the way that works best for you.
    Is your car lowered? This hose is roughly 16 inches long. My ride had about 4" of lowering after I cut my coils (just a little too much). You might need a longer hose. Play with it and if you use a different hose post it here please. Thanks... Dale
     
  13. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    Its dropped now w heated coils. I bought new Aerostar coils so I may be changing the height a little. I replaced my stock hoses years ago with some hoses I matched off the shelf at NAPA and they were a little long as of now my hard brake lines exit behind the upper arms but Im planning on moving the shock mount too so Ill see how it comes out and keep you posted! Thanks again.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  14. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    Cool. My original lines were in front of the control arm . I unbolted it and relocated it behind the original shock. You should be able to move it right behind the new shock mount on the frame. I have seen this on several others. It should still clear the tire. Oh and I remembered why I angled the line up and forward on the caliper. With my wheel setup it might have rubbed on the tire if I had put the angle any other way. Also thinking that if I had a blowout I would not want to lose the brakes as well. Safety First!
     
  15. CARtoons Magazine
    Joined: Sep 6, 2007
    Posts: 337

    CARtoons Magazine
    Member
    from Canada

    Did you have to change the master cylinder? Want to go 4 wheel discs.
     
  16. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    You should change the master. I was going to use the Explorer master and make a mount on the back side of the original master after I gutted the master and extended the rod. Then adapt to a remote reservior on the firewall. You will also probably need to put in some adapters in the line that keep a little pressure on the lines at all times. This is because the master is so low not being on the firewall. The name of the inline adapter escapes me right now.
     
  17. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    risidual pressure valves?
     
  18. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member


    YES. Thanks I was in a super hurry when I did the last post and was having a brain fart. Didnt have time to look it up. Thanks for posting it. :D
     
  19. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    I run a Dakota 3.55:1 rear in my 48 P 15 with modified 218 Flathead 6 and have no trouble taking off in second gear, these old engines have a lot of torque low on the RPM scale. I plan on putting a T-5 in my car and have all of the parts required to do so at a latter date and do not expect any trouble running 75 in fifth gear.
     
  20. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    Great Tech thread! Will this work in my 46 Chrysler Windsor business coupe? I want to keep my car all original except the brakes and would rather just go with easy disc brakes all around for reliability and ease of brake jobs when they are needed. I'd like to keep my original rear end though but add discs. I'm assuming it will work with the Chrysler since it did with the P15's and such but want to double check... Thanks in advance!
     
  21. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    To the best of my knowledge it will not work on the bigger cars. The Dodge, Chrysler, and Desoto cars were different from what I have been told. The thing I believe you would have to do is pop off the rivets and get that drum off. Then see if you could get that rotor to go on. If so then you could customize a bracket to put the caliper on.
    I have been told that the spindle isnt the same as the P15. If the spindle was the same then it would work. I believe that if you check around there are several kits available for your car just like there are for mine. I just chose to make one for myself due to funding. Reinventing the wheel so to say.

    If I had one of the bigger cars I could probably fabricate something to share.
    Anyone want to give me an old 46-48 MOPAR? ;)
     
  22. ntxcustoms
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 910

    ntxcustoms
    Member
    from dfw

    I made some brackets for the 4 bolt dodge/large cars. Its based on yourpc48s concept and uses explorer hubs, do yes they fit. Once the plate is finalized i will be happy to share a template with whomever. The bottom plate was extended to bring the steering arm forward for rack and pinion set ups. If you are using the stock box you can just delete that area when you cut your plates out. Tyler

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
     
  23. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    41 C28
    Member

    This is some great info for my addiction to old Mopars. Thanks.
     
  24. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,540

    gatz
    Member

    I'd appreciate the drawing/template, if it's done. Also, what distance was the steering arm extended forward to reduce the amount of travel for the R&P ?
     
  25. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,538

    73RR
    Member


    Send a email to Olddaddy and ask the question. Although Charlie makes adapter kits, he is a right nice guy and likely will explain the differences in the year-make-model.

    .
     
  26. falconvan
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,050

    falconvan
    Member
    from festus, Mo

    I did this on my 51 Plymouth; worked like a champ although I had to move the caliper mounting holes forward an inch on the drivers side bracket to avoid the caliper hitting the tie rod. This is a killer swap and you couldn't get one any cheaper! I have an aftermarket disc brake kit on my 48 Plymouth; it's coming off and I'm going to put this on. Much better setup.
     
  27. supervert
    Joined: Mar 8, 2009
    Posts: 433

    supervert
    Member

    What master did you use? I'm doing mine right now (finally) and I'm setting it up with a 90's f350 master.
     
  28. falconvan
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,050

    falconvan
    Member
    from festus, Mo

    I bought a Corvette style MC that was made for four wheel manual disc brakes (I've got rear disc, also) from Street Rod Headquarters. I think it was $75; works like a champ.
     
  29. fstfish66
    Joined: May 28, 2005
    Posts: 376

    fstfish66
    Member
    from eastern pa

    your pc 48 hi, we have been searching for this topic over on the p/15d24 site,but they have upgraded the system and all my saved topics are uslessnow,,sorry to hear you sold the plymouth,but thanks for the conversion we are going to use it on a 40 ply i think that a friend just bought,

    ntx customs, i my self would be interested in the larger templet for my 40 dodge when its available thanks to the both of you for the help
     
  30. yourpc48
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 45

    yourpc48
    Member

    Happy to see that people are finding my update useful. I did drive the car with the disk conversion for a few weeks before I sold the car and I liked it although I didnt have the residual valves in place yet so I would have to pump the brakes. I was just sick and tired of trying to make the originals work correctly on a daily driver. I put several hundred miles a week on that car once I got the car drivable.

    The parts that I used for the conversion should probably still fit the other cars. The hub on the bigger cars may need to be truned down or the inside of the rotor for the rotor to fit. The idea for me was to be able to walk into any parts store and get a part off the shelf so safely modifying the original part to allow the new unmodified part would be the way I would try to go. Also, the bracket I created for the caliper is specific to the small 46 to 48 Plymouths. You could download my template and then cut it out of cardboard or thin aluminum like I did and then adjust for hole spacing and placement on the 40 spindle. :rolleyes: Feel free to modify. If I had a spindle and hub to play with I could probably make it work but since I dont own one of the bigger cars or the earlier models I have no way of making the bracket correctly.
     

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