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Projects Oz 34 chev roadster build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1938ute, Nov 14, 2011.

  1. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Started making panels for this project about a year ago, and got a bit busy and lacking room I tucked it away for later. Well someone's put a deposit down so it's time to get back to it.
    Here's the Quarters, our roadster's didn't have a bead around the wheel arch a bit easier to make!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
  2. Nice work !!

    Aaron MS
     
  3. Original57
    Joined: May 5, 2010
    Posts: 159

    Original57
    Member

    x 2
     
  4. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Here's the quarters more finished.
    [​IMG]Smooth out the welds in the E wheel.
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     

  5. hotrod_32
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 496

    hotrod_32
    Member

    Awsome work going on for sure !
     
  6. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Next on the list is door skins, cut a pattern and wheel some shape in.
    [​IMG]
    Next fold the beltline bead.
    [​IMG]
    Then pull it back why'll still it the panbrake to form the bead.
    [​IMG]
    Then put through the pullmax to finish shape of the beltline.
    [​IMG]
    Tip the edge all around
    [​IMG]
    And that's the door skin made, the top edge at the front where it meets the cowl has to curve up, but I will make that when I attach the skin to the frame.
    Cheers Steve
     
  7. Are you making the entire body, or did you start with a total wreck, or a four door or something?
     
  8. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    I started with a bitza project that some guy had on evil bay. I didn't take the pickup bed or the holden v8. The cowl was good, but the frame was a bit rusty and had to be repaired.
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
  9. Woah - jeez! Not much to go on then. Enough to get the thing registered as a 34 Chevy at any rate. Are you copying another car body, or scaling off photos or something? Outstanding metalwork BTW.
     
  10. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,092

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Wow, terrific metal work! I'll be following along on your build.
     
  11. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Thanks guy's, I did the metal work on a original a few years back and copied it and made templates. I'm going to make a buck this time of the rear section as I have made a couple of bodies and several quarters over the years and I still have a couple of cowls and frames that I have collected over the years. I have a 33 that I want to keep and build as a mild 40's-50's custom.
    Cheers Steve.
     
  12. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Next thing to do was the door frames, the original ones are mostly wood so I have a form to make door inner shape and fold the extra section in the panbrake.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
  13. hammeredrods
    Joined: Mar 26, 2011
    Posts: 177

    hammeredrods
    Member

    Damn man that thing was a pile. The new panels look sweet.good job
     
  14. Fantastic job! Those quarters are beautiful.
     
  15. stinson1082
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 15

    stinson1082
    Member

    Nice Project! I have a all original 34 standard roadster if you need photos or anything. nice work!
     
  16. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Thanks Stinson,
    I have templates from an original roadster I did the body work on years ago, but I always like to see another chev roadster,australian roadsters are a bit different to US ones like the australian fords where a bit different to . This is the 3rd chev roadster I have done.
    Cheers Steve.
     
  17. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Thanks stinson1082,cactus1,hammeredrods, i've done some more work on the 34 but hadn't got around to post progress. I have made a decklid skin and frame but haven't assembled them yet, I tried a tube frame this time.
    [​IMG]
    The frame is now boxed and tube X member is in,and started on the floor substructure.
    [​IMG]
    Just have it held together with cleco's at the moment.
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
  18. Nice work Steve. I have a 33 Chevy Cabriolet. Love to see these 30's Chevys coming back to life.
     
  19. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Where are you based Steve? Love your work.

    Pete
     
  20. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Hi Pete,
    I'm on the south side of Brisbane, sunny queensland.
    Cheers Steve.
     
  21. FlynBrian
    Joined: Oct 5, 2007
    Posts: 759

    FlynBrian
    Member

    Looking good! You have skills, very nice!
     
  22. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Thanks flynbrian
     
  23. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    I have made some more progress over the last few days after going backwards for a day or two after the guy decided he wanted to channel the car after I hung all the panels [​IMG] So I cut it apart and ditched the inner sill panel and started over. I made the first floor panel for a change of pace.
    First marked it out and layed down some swage lines for strength and looks.
    [​IMG]
    Used a trimmed piece of tubing to finish the ends (nice little trick I picked up somewhere)
    [​IMG]
    Made a hat section brace to stiffen up the centre and spot welded in
    [​IMG]
    Then stitch welded floor panel in with MIG.
    [​IMG]
    Also made B pillars and welded them in. Used wood form and tipped the curved edge with skateboard wheel in beadroller
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
  24. Docco
    Joined: Mar 23, 2007
    Posts: 286

    Docco
    Member
    from Ippy

    Wow this is great well thought out work!
    I love threads like this that you can take some notes and pick up a few tricks.
    A couple of things make me think you've done sheet metal work as a trade? Is this correct? If not your really well self taught.
     
  25. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    I'm a fitter ,machinist by trade but I have done a panel beating coarse at night school many years ago. I do the metal shaping and fabrication for a living these days in my small shop , building a hotrod or 3.
    Cheers Steve.
     
  26. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,007

    koolkemp
    Member

    Wow great build! Subscribed now!!
     
  27. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    I lost the plot a bit with the chev roadster after I cut it loose and started channelling it. So I cut some strips of sheet metal and used cleco’s to fix the panels in position.
    [​IMG]
    Then I started making parts for the sill frame work, I use heavy SHS tube for the sill swage that I bent in the press to a template.
    [​IMG]
    Used a profile gauge to get the right shape for the swage and used a disc sander to make the profile on the tubing
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2012
  28. It looks great!
    Glad to see an update on this
     
  29. Looking good! Keep the updates coming.
     
  30. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    The running gear turned up last week for the roadster, thankfully I talked him out of the world industries big block that he wanted to put a blower on. There going to put that in a 67 SS Impala now, and we have a nice healthy 350 small block except it has a t400 behind it so I have to change the gearbox cross member. There was a massive F truck 9" 31 spline LSD diff as well which I though would be to wide , but I checked wheel backspacing and width of the body and it worked out to have 40mm clearance each side with the channeled 34 body which should be good clearance for cycle guard brackets.I started making frame work for the deeper sills but haven't welded them in yet.
    [​IMG]
    Cheers Steve.
     

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