Oxy acetylene welding-Framework?

Torchmann, a good gas weld is nearly indistinguishable from a good TIG weld. A "stack of nickles" is not necessary, but it is nice. Every once in a while when I've got a weld in a particularly visual place, I go for pretty, and usually get it.
If you want to play with something, I stumbled on a pretty unique method for getting nearly completely flush "Nickle Rolls" and excellent penetration on thicker material...I call it the "Drip Method". This takes TONS of practice, and I find it only happens right for me when I'm in "zen-weld" mode.
Using an aggressive and broad flame, I pre-heat and begin to feed the pool with direct contact of the filler rod as would be normal. Now, as the surrounding metal begins to really absorb the heat, and the bead speeds up,I begin to pull the filler rod back away from the pool while still keeping it at the edge of the hottest part of the flame. Now, I walk the pool forward while maintaining a steady drip from the filler rod. The timing and coordination have to be DEAD on, but the results are nothing short of art. I did joints like this on a square tubing engine cradle I built for a buddy of mine, and without any grinding or touch-ups, once the cradle was painted with a coat of black Rustolium the beads were nearly completely invisible.

 

My dad used to have an old stock car and he gas welded the roll cage together. That car took some good hits and it always held together. I love gas welding, I can repair anything in my yard without the need for electricity. Alot of natural gas pipe work is still gas welded together in the field.

 

Biggest problem with oxy-acet gas welding is cold welds, ie, base metal not up to fusing temp....
.

 

The welding gods themselves will say...."Don't drip the filler metal onto the weld joint in gass welding." Well....maybe not the gods, but AWS. Carl Hagan

 

Kent Fuller gas welded Tommy Ivo's 4 engine chassis together. Of course, Fuller is a genius and can, probably, weld wood.

 

I thought I was the only one on earth with a Forney.
"The Forneycator" Rules

 

Dude, JYD is a PROFESSIONAL welder and in good standing for many years here on the HAMB. Like he said, the OP stated his limitations and should not be fucking around with something he does not know.

 

Gas welding can work just fine, and for some chrome moly it is preferable. If you are an experienced gas welder I wouldn't hesitate. Your tanks do however empty quickly on frame work.

 

Take it light Tman...I'm sure JYD is a fine human and an excellent welder. His statements about gas welding however, made it sound like I sit on the floor of my shop in foot pajamas playing with my TONKA torch set, and that just ain't the way it is, so I took exception. And this is wrong how?

 

OK ... My turn ... Just a noob here so take my $ .02 for what ya think it's worth ...

I see tons of advice ... Much of it diff opinions ... That is a good thing ... If we all thought the same we would not have the variety of toys that we do ... I myself have never picked up a torch or a stick but I soon will ... I have done a bit of research and have found that gas has been around a while and has done everything from brazing and leading to cast iron and boiler plate ...

The most oft suggestions seem to be to tack first then either weld up or send off to someone else if a person is not really sure their skills are up to the job at the current time ... That is the way I am gonna go with my "project" ... I have a friend whose family has been building everything from midgets to super stocks ... I have the ideas, he has the skills ...

If you do the job yourself find someone whose talent you trust and have them look it over as you get sections done ... Just to be safe ...

 

I love the idea of gas welding boxing plates and brackets. Go for it! I've done all of my chassis with a Miller 140, so I can live without the 110v vs. 220v debate. After more than 10 years constructing chassis of all kinds, I can say with complete confidence that this 110v mig can do anything you would ever want on a hot rod chassis. I do break out bigger equipment for axle tubes, but not the brackets. It beats having to make multiple passes.
That said, anything that I can do with a 110v mig, I can do with gas. Anything I can do with the bigger machines, I might consider using a stick welder. The limiting factor is not the machine, but the person doing the welding. If you are confident in your torch work, get busy. Warpage can be controlled with patience and a proper frame table/jig.

 

Two words: Buddy up.

There has to be a HAMB'r or just a plain old rodder in your area that can help.

It will help build a strong frame, and a strong community. We need both.

 

and..... DON'T USE A COAT HANGER!

 

LoL...No, but but I'll bet LOTS of the people who wouldn't think of using a coat hanger, are using cheap Chinese wire in their MIGS and not giving it a second thought!

 

You're probably right !

 

My sentiments...I was unsure so I went back to my welding supply store and told them what I was planning and asked them if it was a good idea or not. they told me I had the 90,000 psi wire and my welder was rated to 1/4" so no problem as long as I did it right.

P.S. I was just kidding when I said noobs

 

You weld in pajammas?

 

Weld up some stuff then try to bust the welds and test your welds and you should answear your own question.

 

Sometimes I just wear mayonnaise....

 

I'd just tack it where you want it and have a buddy with a bigger welder weld it. You could bring it ovr here, but the 3000 miles drive might be a bit much

 

...I know this is an OLD thread, but I was wondering HOW it all worked
out...'cause...

...I'm gonna be be boxin' the rails on the '56 F100 and I only
have an old gas-ax and my 110V Snap On YA219B MIG....




The gas-ax set-up is showing the old MAPP tank & NO gauges that has since been converted acetylene and new Smith Regulators…

When you'se box your frames...do you leave the boxing plates solid...or
is there any advantage to adding lightening holes?.....better to leave them
solid?....

Not sure IF I wanna run anything thru the frame rails or not......

-



<O</O

 

Did you ever get it welded up? I should have just told you to tack the boxing plates on and bring it on down to my place and weld it up with my 175 Lincoln That would be about a 70 mile road trip one way.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I plan on boxing my A frame using oxy-acetylene. On the internet I've found almost nothing but advice against it. I took that as a challenge and can now call BS.

I practiced on two pieces of 1/8" without using filler rod and here are the results. This is the first time I've welded anything thicker than 18ga with a torch. There was very little distortion. When boxing the frame, I'll have 20' to move around on so distortion should be minimal. I assure you the weld is very strong.

 

Nice work! I appreciate anyone with the skill to weld with Ox-A.

 

Thanks I've only been doing it 6 months or so but I'm amazed at how versatile it is.
I can not recommend HAMBer Mindover's video enough: www.metalshapingzone.com

 

Wow, I had no idea this thread still existed....great job on the plates Lonewolf.

If anyone cares, three years later, I ended up ditching the A frame for 32, and then used my brother-in-law's mig to replace the missing horns.

I still don't have 220, but I do have a nearly completed shop, and it WILL have a nice welder. That said, I still gas weld all the time, and love the idea of building tube frame one day (and dreams of a TIG).

If I'd have seen this a few years ago, I'd have been at your front door.

 

Agree !! I gas welded pipe when working for a pipeline, anything 2" and under it was required at the time. Warping can be controlled by back stepping. Welding takes knowledge and practice.

 

Welding is simply melting two pieces of metal together.
Strength of the joint is the critical element and that depends upon the Welder's skill, not the method used. A good Welder can get a stronger weld with a 50 year Victor torch than a hack can with the latest TIG machine.