The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 57 shaker, Aug 21, 2017.
They make water pumps, try about any catalog speed shop. They work just like they claim they will.
Well I completely drained the cooling system and put a 180 T-stat in and fill with a 50/50 mix coolant. To make sure all available air coming through the grill is forced to go through the radiator I used a foam rubber seal to seal up any places where air could by-pas the rad. I drove the car a little last night but not enough to get a good read on the prob but on the run it didn't go over 115. I will be taking it on a 20 mile one way trip Friday night which should reveal something. I have not come up with flappers for the four 3" hole on the corners of the elec. fan shroud yet. I still want the elec. fan for stops and really slow traffic. I still haven't added the bottle of wetter water yet either. After I get this Heat prob fixed there's an other problem and that is when on the freeway since I have a $00 Turbo 3 speed and I don't know what gear ratio 9" ford rear end the tack is way up there I mean the engine is working pretty good at about 65 mph. So it's either change the rear ring and pinion OR 700R4 Man the Turbo shifts so perfectly I hate to mess with it but a 700r4 with a lockup converter .....
So the way I read this it's a big improvement. Is that a safe assumption?
I really like the lady in yer avatar.....
Wow,poked in the eye 4 mentioning electric fan. I a really old fart likes old rods & still drive couple late models. How support 5 speeds or automatics in only pre 50's rods? Those 50 rodders were trying to use the" newest" parts on those old rods u trying to copy. Some rodders still use new ideas on flatheads. Is the HAMB going to drop all posts using any parts newer then 1950? Must parts be original or reman copies ok? I know my turbo,intercooled EFI car will always start & run. Still love old even flat 4s
We went to a car show last night about 10 miles or so away. It's where a hundred or more cars get together every Saturday night and show off their cars. So not using the A/C the temp stayed around 210 or so, no a/c cause we had a cold spell here in Phx yesterday and it only got up to around 97 degrees. I still have a few things to try before I can think about driving with A/C on. Some of the cars last night were totally unbelievable, blown coupes and roadsters everywhere. Some of these people are driving Funny Cars on the street, it was way cool. I've been looking for a 700r4 or a non elec. 4l60 so I can get those RPM's down. Wed. night we went to a hot rod club meeting just to see what they were all about and was invited to a bunch of upcoming road trips. I said well where do you people go to from Phx ? They said we have one to Vegas, So Cal., N.M., Texas, etc., these people go everywhere. I can just see me going a couple hundred miles with the heat and RPM's problems trying to keep up . Well now that it's September and Fall is coming the overheating might not be that big a deal, maybe I can drive with the A/C on at around Christmas . I swear if we didn't have this car we would be home watching Netflix or some boring thing but now we've met some really cool Gear Heads like us.My wife loves to go and see all the cars but a lot of guy's were by themselves and said their wives were not interested in Hot Rods ? WTF is wrong with some people. Well getting ready to go to a Diamondbacks game so enough blabbing.
Your prior post on Friday said you only got up to 115 degrees. Now your saying 210. I'll assume a misprint and only a Small improvement. Maybe some of your new connections that drive a lot in the same weather your exposed will be able to share some of there knowledge with you as to how they do things.
I think he meant ambient 115F, coolent temp 210F.
In an SBC with pressurized cooling system, 210F is fine. I'd stop worrying about it and drive.
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Hey Wizzard how you doing bud ? That was a misprint and yes it is a little better every time I make a change. I still have to depend on the elec. fan as it brings the temp down pretty good. Every time I'm at a get together I always ask about the heat problem. The nose on the 48 is shaped to a point so you only have so much room. I looked at cars like 55-57 chevy's and the room for a radiator is unreal. Going to a Ball game with my 3 sons and their fams talk to you soon. neil
Hi David I agree 210 F ain't bad at all but my elec fan is manual so if I don't constantly watch the temp I will look and it gets to 130 and stopped it has gone to 135-140 which is ..... I hope some day I can use the A/C neil
There is some really bad info here, or some typos, or some other goofy shit like a temp guage on the radiator
So get yourself a thermostatic control switch for the fan. Wire it up and go. If you're going to run an electric, no sense in fooling around with watching the temp gauge and turning it on and off.
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Typo, not 135 I meant 235 and no gauge on radiator but watching water 2 temp gauges inside car. sorry
On a thermostatic control switch are they preset to start fan at a certain temp or is there a way to adjust when it comes on ? I'll have to see more about them thank you.
I've got one of these in my (OT) car, and it works great:
Let the engine idle while watching the temp gauge. When the temp gauge reach the point where you want the fan to kick in, turn the adjustment knob until the fan starts. Done.
I have a Spal fan kit with relay and sensor located in the cylinder head. The fan comes on at 195, off at 175 and works well. It comes on when I'm parking at a cruise on hot nights or if I'm stuck in traffic. Otherwise the car runs at 180 all the time.
Depends on which one you buy. You can get fixed or adjustable. I'm using a fixed one
plumbed in to the engine block. My temp gauge is in the intake manifold. On startup, the engine warms to about 220-230 on the gauge, the fan kicks in, and it drops to about 205 and stays there.
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I have a 1947 Ford Coupe with 350/350. I put a walker radiator and a Cooling Components electric fan on it. I have a 180 degree thermostat. My car runs 185 to 190 degrees. If you have at least 2 5/8" between the radiator and the water pump I would recommend a cooling components fan. You could have a bad radiator cap. If it is not building pressure that will effect the temp. You might also try with the engine cool remove the radiator cap and start the engine and let it run. Turn the heater on so that you get water circulation in the heater core. Let the car run and watch to see if the water is circulating in the radiator good. This will also get any air that is trapped out.
What I'm thinking is what if I end up solving my problem with a mechanical fan. Right now the elec puller fan at the engine side of the radiator and the water pump pulley have about 1/2 inch clearance. I'm trying everything one at a time and if I put a thermostatic switch on and it still isn't the answer well ..... I will check the cap and watch the flow in the rad, I've drained and flushed the system at least 4 or 5 times. I burped the system every time with the heater on. The 48 has such a narrow/ pointed front end which doesn't leave room to go wider with the rad. So next I will put flaps on the 4 holes I put in the fan shroud and see what happens but it definitely is getting better, but not good enough to run with the A/C on yet. Thank you neil
Kaspar the adjustable setup sounds great thanks
Looks like 1" of shroud, 1" of Fan cage, 1" of slope, 1.5" of electric motor.
Is there 4.5" from the water pump to the core?
Don't mean to be a pest, but I offered an easy, quick, cheap diagnostic early on this thread. You have tried just about every thing else and still are having problems. Spend 10 or 15 minutes and you will either eliminate one more factor or discover your problem. Regarding belts: Worn pulleys and/or improper sized belts can cause problems. A good way to check both the belts and pulleys is to use a magic marker. Coat the sides and bottoms of the crank and water pump pulleys. (Might as well do the same to the alternator/generator pulley while you are at it.) Tighten the belt to normal running tension. Run the motor for a couple of minutes. The magic marker should be worn off the sides of the pulleys. If the marker is worn off the bottom, the pulleys are worn or the belt is the wrong size for your particular pulleys. Good luck.
Something I ment to ask a while back. I know you have 2 temp gauges in the car. Where are the senders mounted? Also, you have told us what high temp's are but I haven't heard you mention boiling over and loosing any coolant. Does that ever happen?
Sounds like your on Motor #2 in this car. Did you have high running temp's with the first motor? When I read the Camshaft went away in motor #1 I couldn't help but wonder if your aware of today's Oil issues with our early Flat Tappet Cam motors.
57 shaker, is the radiator air deflector installed? I asked this question before but don't tell your answer.
As has been stated temperature issues at speed are most often tuning related or water related ( radiator not effective due to size or condition, belts slipping pulley ratio, waterpump design etc.) ...have you checked TOTAL timing yet,pulls condition as outlined, what are the dimensions and age of your radiator, is there a spring coil in your bottom rad. Hose? Sometimes they suck closed without one , maybe radiator has a mouse nest or similar blockage?
Sorry if I missed this,is this a crate motor or a built motor,what size, camshaft and comp ratio. What does the engine builder say?
Sorry I haven't been on the HAMB for a few days. I will try to answer everything I can. I'm not out there at the coupe right now but I think with elec. fan off there is 4.5 in clearance, I know one temp sensor is near t-stat, the deflector is on and all the edges have foam tape sealer around edges, The Radiator looks pretty new and inside it looks spotless, with the electronic ign. I only have an old style timing light and not sure how to hook it up to MSD , the builder says 220 is a good range, I put a new lower rad hose on and it did not have a coil in it, the Camshaft is a Comp cam 2200-5800 range part # 08-432-8(7), turbo 400 trans has 2500 stall speed converter, it did boil over at 240+ when the funky lower rad hose started to leak as said I replaced it. I know the stuff that has happened lately doesn't interest most people but I gotta do what I gotta do. One- wife went into surgery 3 days ago and I have to take care of her a doc appointment today etc. Two- I have a 2006 Ram 2500 diesel truck that is my driver that the A/C is screwed again and it needs a evaporator core which means I had to take the dash out and a ton of other stuff just to remove the HVAC box, I have truck parts everywhere . Got the new evap and of coarse they sent the wrong one so maybe Monday on that. I just hope I remember how it all goes back together . Sometimes things pile up and when I go out there in the morning I don't know what to do first. Please don't give up on me, I'm so thankful for all the support from you people. neil
Wow, long thread - example about how difficult it is to apply experiences/results from one car/motor to another No, 220 is not OK - yes late motors run around that temp but, have electronics controlling things - with electronics already mentioned: do not run fan in front of radiator - need to know output of existing motor side fan and compare it to known brands like Spal - all fans are not the same - yes, a automatic thermal switch would be a plus - some you set up to turn on/off at certain temps, others have a controller knob for dash that you set plus, can adjust it when situations change - sites like summitracing.com carry several brands and is a starting place to compare stuff - the automatic transmission cooler looks like it is blocking air flow and not getting any air flow from radiator, look at moving it below front sheetmetal where it gets air flow when driving - the A/C condenser does not look correct either - looks like brand of radiator is on top, is there a part #?, if possible contact manufacturer for recommendations to help you - for now 350 trans should be OK, do need to find out what the existing gear ratio is and go to higher gears, a differental repair shop can help with this - for water flow a "big mouth" thermostat and Flowkooler water pump - etc - oh ya, double check wiring system to make sure that there are correct relays for fan & A/C - have fun
57shaker, nobody said this old car shit is easy. If it was everybody would be doing it. Good luck and hope your wife is doing OK. Keep plugging away.
Well I haven't driven the 48 in over a month because of wife health problems but she's on the mend now . Haven't done any more to the car like putting flaps on the puller fan shroud holes Don't know what to use for flaps ? It overheated for sure when the A/C was on but even in Phx. we don't use the A/C that much in late Oct. and on but summer is never that far away for us in Phx. So anyway I'am taking the coupe to a Sat. nite car show in Phx. just to get the cobwebs out. It is so awesome how you people are willing to help an old gear head like me on the road again neil
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