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Hot Rods Overhead Hoist...on second thought

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fortunateson, Feb 1, 2022.

  1. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    D25342B1-8B13-4E95-B580-1979D121915C.jpeg Until you get your overhead build, you might build a ground lift like mine.
    Contact me for plans!






    Bones
     
  2. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,612

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Damn, Bones, I'm gonna run right out and build one just like yours 'cepting I'm gonna be safe and nail them 2 bys together with a bunch of leftover 7 penny galvanized like I used to build the kid's tree house. Ain't nothing to this engineering stuff, huh?;)
     
  3. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,612

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And just think, not ONE of those Petunias or Geraniums was harmed by the rigging on that load ;)
     
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  4. 1F970B67-D35E-4F53-A995-2E82C54D07F7.jpeg

    Just like this…
     
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  5. Something easy and used to be cheap to throw together and will hold most any motor or body. When done unscrew the cross beam and throw it behind the garage out of way until next time it's needed.
    gantry medium.jpg frame.jpg
     
  6. hedg12
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 47

    hedg12
    Member

    When I was a kid my brother and I threw 2 2x6's across 4 rafters in my dad's shop and pulled a 302/C4 out of an OT Ford wagon with a come-along. It worked, but it's a wonder we lived through it. I still remember the creaking noises coming from the rafters & thinking that my dad would kill us if something broke. Really can't recommend it...
     
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  7. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,217

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

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  8. Rotating the blinker fluid and lubing the muffler bearings.
     
  9. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I like that and thanks for including the plans. I suppose I could put locking swivel casters on the base 2”x4” at the ends and the centres and also use brackets to hold the base to the uprights so I could un-bolt everything and have easily stackable sections. Comments?

    I wonder if I could hang those sections from my trusses? LOL
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2022
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  10. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Well I’m rethinking the placement of the hoist. I suppose the tread title should change to “...on third thought.” I originally wanted it to be inline to the garage door whereby I could lift a body and then roll the chassis outside. But I haven’t checked out how my trusses could be modified but will do, I still owe pics to one of the posters.

    However I do have two beams of four, not three, 2”x12”x14’ running down the centre of my garage where the addition is attached to. These are supported by 6”x6” posts. Looking up what a 2”x12” Douglas Fir could hold online numerous sites state 180 lbs per linear foot. So my calculations: 180x14x4= 10,080 lbs which should be more than adequate to lift a car body...
    Now I’ll have to get my calculations confirmed of course.

    The only hiccup is that the beams run perpendicular to the drive through door, in other words 90* to what I really want. But I think I can handle that and use dollies to pull out the chassis and then rotate it. And if I choose to have two hoists operating at the same time to lift a body, fore and aft, RICH B’s suggestion should do the trick.

    So if there are any more comments or suggestions please post and to all who have responded I really appreciate your lessons in “Structural Engineering 101”....
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2022
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  11. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member

    I think you need to recalibrate that load rating….as the beam gets longer the amount it will hold gets less. An eight foot beam will hold twice as much as 16 foot beam. That is a generalization, but I hope you get the drift!
    Be safe!






    Bones
     
  12. Could always get a couple more lifts;)
    lifts.jpg
     
  13. The things are pretty sturdy; but think I would build the bottom better if using casters. They do slide around on the floor pretty easy if nothing is hanging on them. Simpler when 2x4's were less than a buck; but battery drivers and torx screws are sure easier to work with than the duplex nails we used in the ancient times.
     
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  14. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

     
    Boneyard51 likes this.

  15. So what is the span between the 6" x 12" beam and the wall? You might look at making a beam to go from it to the wall, placed at the location of one of the posts. Support the 'wall' end with a substantial post, and Bob's yer uncle. Use bolted connections with stout steel hangers, which may have to be fabricated.
     
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  16. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,217

    ekimneirbo

    When pulling a load directly upward, a wooden hoist like this may get the job done. The problem is that often there is some fore/aft movement or side/side movement that is needed. Putting something like this on casters would be downright dangerous if you try to move it about with a load suspended. I'm not knocking making something like that for a one time need where someone has to have something to lift with, but it doesn't have enough mass to resist an engines need to continue moving when a wheel hits a crack in the concrete. Not trying to be negative, but I also don't want to see anyone get hurt or damage their engine or vehicle. I think a lot of us have dealt with a situation where something got away from us and all we could do was stand there and watch it seek its destination........:)
     
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  17. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Basically what I have is a post and beam construction. Six 6x6 posts altogether, three on east wall with 6x12 beams connecting the posts. The outside walls are studded with 2x6 every 18”. So the beam I’m referring to has a span of around 14’.

    I’m not really understanding what you’re suggesting. A simple sketch might help me.
     
  18. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member


    Very good point. I was just thinking about gantries that have casters and wondering if it could be done with a wooden one. Thanks.
     
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  19. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,217

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Be aware there are specifications for " live" load & " dead" load & they are mutually exclusive .

    I'll share my situation : I built a triple 2x12 beam with a 3/4" plywood layer . It's 26' long , it holds the ceiling rafters that are supporting more than I can imagine ! I have lifted numerous engine / trans combos , outboard engines ( including v-6's) numerous times , over the 45 years since I built it , it has sagged about an inch & a half. It has a post in the center now .
    If the bottom chord of one of your trusses will hold your weight , and you run a support from the roof rafter down to the ceiling rafter & do that to 4 of them & span those 4 with a double 2x6 or better , pull the load from center of the beam , you won't have any trouble , the key is to spread the load , plus you're probably not going to leave something hanging for years .
     

  20. Sorry but my printer/scanner is on the fritz, so I'll try to do a better job of describing my thoughts...
    Install a beam (made up of three 2 x 10s or 12s. Might be overkill, but we want you to be safe) between your outside wall (is it sheetrocked, or are studs exposed?) and the main beam that runs on top of the 6 x 6 posts. This means the new beam is running across the garage bay, parallel to the garage door. Be sure to adequately support (with a post) the end of the beam at the outside wall, as well as bracing to prevent movement (front-to-rear of your garage).
    This would be a single, permanent location fore and aft in your space, but with some careful measuring you should be able to place it in such a manner to allow decent working clearances.
    I hope this clears it up.
     
  21. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,612

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you had planned on using the set-up shown in @RICH B 's post, I think you should add at least 3 each 2 x 4's, turned on edge, screwed and glued together on each side for the base. Then you should be alright adding casters, just make sure that the casters have the load rating to handle what you're picking up.
     
  22. I use a 2" x 4" I-beam with 1/2" x 2" mounting tabs welded on top. Use a manual Harbor Freignt chain hoist. I scabbed 2" x 8" beams to the 2" x 6" bottom rail on my joists. Joist mounting bolts are 1/2" through bolts. I used two 16' boards on the 24' span. they sit on top of 6" x 6" posts in the walls and overlap in the middle. It is a 'pole barn' - steel siding and roof on 6" x 6" buried post walls.

    This lifts any engine/tranny combo or car body with ease.
    IMG_2130.JPG IMG_2131.JPG IMG_2132.JPG
     
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  23. I've seen this done.... I must have been about 7 years old when my dad took me with him down to the shop he worked at on a weekend. The tail pipes on our '55 ford wagon had rotted off and he was going to replace them. The shop had a war-surplus overhead cable hoist, he hooked it somewhere under the car and stood that wagon up on the front bumper. Even to me it looked sketchy, but he got them replaced with no drama...
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2022
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  24. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,217

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Your steel beam is only benefitting from 1/2 of the wood beams strength
     
  25. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    Gantry cranes are the way to go, if you have the funds and space. Being able to move it where needed is such a help. Consider if the wheels used will carry the load of the crane and the load, or if the wheels need to be removed for certain jobs.
    I let the trusses do their job, then use something else to make lifts.
     
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  26. A bit more than that. You are discounting the shear strength of the wood plus I used a lot of nails too so it is very stout. No worries.
     
  27. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,217

    ekimneirbo

    The Willys36 is a good example of what I was saying about scabing 2x6s onto a truss. I would have scabbed both sides all the way to the wall though........but I try to always overbuild as much as I can. Another consideration is the beam being used. Sometimes you use whats available and cheap. If you have a beam thats supported every few feet like Willys36 did, you can use a 4" beam instead of a 6" and that will lighten the load on the truss even more. One last thing I would do is run a steel beam/box tube or even a couple 2x6s across the trusses perpendicular to the crane. Then you have some support from two other trusses IF something should start to deflect too much. With me its all about doing everything I can think of even if its never needed.

    Here is another crane we are building in another building at my sons place. We put this up before we pour the concrete floor. The beams are about 30 feet long. When we get back to working on it, we plan to attach some supports to the trusses just to give a little support in the center as the beam might deflect too much with a heavy load in the center. I figure if we attach the beam to the trusses with brackets similar to what Willys36 used, it might not deflect at all. The brackets will also serve to keep the thing from falling sideways.........plus there will be some bars welded between the two end supports to get the spacing correct. Then two cross trolleys will be put on them.
    We are also considering a movable post that can slide on the beam and then be screwed down to give support when/if needed. Something like those beam supports like they use in basements and has a little plate thats adjustable. Don't know right now if we will need it or not, but thats the current thinking.

    The thing about a steel beam is that you get trolley movement that you don't get with a wooden beam, and you give up no floor space. Nice Job Willys36 :)
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 10, 2022
  28. Thanx. In my last shop which was very similar to this one in Texas, the builder ran full width (24') 4" x 10" lam-beams every 8'! That was in the People's Republik of Kalifornia where they regulate regulations and admittedly have a bit of a problem with earthquakes. My similar steel I-beam trolly in that shop would have lifted a diesel locomotive.
     
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  29. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,217

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Willy 36 , depends on where the wood decides to split , straps over the top of the wood beam to support the load would ensure the support of the whole beam , not just from the through bolts down . When you support a hay rail , the support bracketry goes over the top of the ridge pole .
     
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