Thanks Hendee, I've made some progress, but have been lax at posting. I'll take some photos in the next day or so and put them on. I'm waiting for 301 parts to come from Bruce (QCE), but have received my cowl outer and door inner and outer patch panels from Tom Bay at RJ Ent. They are excellent panels, so I'll get on that soon. The brake & clutch pedal assy has been stripped apart, bead blasted, repaired and is ready for paint and re-assembly, with new bushings honed and shaft. I am working on the rear spreader bar at the moment, incorporating the licence plate and tail light brackets, so the rear panel will be clean and uncluttered. Thats about it for now.
I know it's been more than a few days since I promised photos. Life gets in the way at times. I've been working on small details lately. Modifying a 36 roof header because I don 't have a 34, the rear signal light & licence bracket and damage to the left 1/4 wheel arch. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am a ford guy, but if I was to stray it would be for a Nailhead Buick... I like the little nailers... If you feel the need to alter the earth's axis, drop a big block or a hemi into the beast...
Got the frame back from the bodyshop, (Thanks BONDO SLINGER) after he pulled the diamond out. Spent the afternoon setting it up and slung the nailhead in place. With that done I have 6 sq. ft. of newfound floorspace. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ron even my kids are shocked. Now maybe I should get you to tell them how to clean their rooms......lol
Left side and rear body done. On to the Right side and cowl. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spent yesterday squaring and levelling the frame and engine, in preparation for making mounts. The Cad/Lasalle fits pretty good. I swapped the cmbr center end for end, which moved it back and relieved the Rt trans mount pedestal to gain case access. I think its going to work just fine. In the future, if I decide to change to an open driveshaft. I can use the front wishbone mount for rear radius arms. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had a pair of cast off frame rails that were rust perforated at the torque box area. I decided to cut these up and use them inside the frame as stiffeners. I didn't want to box the frame, as I consider this as a more modern approach to frame reinforcement. Had the rails blasted and treated them with Picklex 20. One area at the peak of the right kick was torn, so repaired with a doner section from behind the cmbr. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The idea of adding supports to key stressed areas/known fatigue points without going to fully boxing makes a lot of sense. Was curious about "treated them with Picklex 20", so watched a couple of videos. Looks like impressive results.
Hendee, I could go on and on about Pickex 20, I think its a great product. As long as you keep the treated parts dry, they will not rust. It rejects weld spatter and when you're ready to paint, I wipe the part with wax and grease remover, then a cloth dampened with Pickex just in case and paint it. No need for etch primer. They should pay me for this endorsement. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Left side ready for paint and assembly. Weld through primer on seam areas, por 15 on the rest and inner rail, then Por15 top coat. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I made some frame braces out of one 35-40 original. The front will be braced by the battery box on the left and exhaust hanger on the right. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm enjoying following your progress. I was wondering what the reason might be for the stiffeners being split top from bottom. Thanks for sharing your build!
They are old 34 frame rails and are the same height dimension as the outer rail that they fit inside, so must be sectioned horizontally. In order to get them in place, they had to be cut lengthwise, which I did at an angle to increase the strength. Then just a matter of slotting the stiffener holes slightly and bolting them in place, using only original holes and stitch welding them back together.. I had to hammer dress the flanges in several places, where distorted, but so far the fit is very good. I am confident that this will increase the frame strength by 50%+
The Jalopy Journal
