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Options for 36 Ford rear end?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatheadfever, Jun 16, 2013.

  1. I am building a 36 ford 5 w. I am still rounding up parts and I am interested other people's opinions on what to build for the rear.
    I started with a nice bare frame and pretty good sheet metal.
    Here is what I have so far for a drivetrain.

    Front 4 drop axle with discs
    66 283 new build dyno 290 hp
    350 turbo or a 2004r
    Explorer rear axles (2) plan to use the 2 short axles and convert to drum brakes

    I'm leaning to more of a custom look and want to be able to cover lots of miles trouble free and able to buy parts on the road if the need arises. I know it is not 100% traditional but it is what I got and it will be a nice running car.

    Here are what my options are as I figure it out, plan to use the explorer axle.


    Parallel leaf springs ( probably not low enough)

    Transverse leaf spring and 36 radius rods, raise the crossmember notch the frame

    Triangulated 4 link welder series (notch)

    Parallel 4 link welder series ( notch)

    Bag or not to bag?

    I am thinking I should have a suspension that matches the front drop axle handling wise if that makes sense.
    Tell what your opinions are from experience with these type of builds.
    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2013
  2. I've used parallel leaf springs under several 40 Ford coupes,,which is basically the same frame.

    Very easy to get it low using blocks and it's a good working suspension.

    I prefer the older old Maverick,Granada or Mustang rear axles,,they fit without having to shorten the axles. HRP
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2013
  3. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

    Lift springs, left springs? Are we talking LEAF springs?

    Thought I read on here some time ago about a few guys using an aftermarket parallel leaf kit on 36s and having some problems. Might have to do a search.
     
  4. The old stuff is long gone in these parts. Even the explorer axle is a big pile of rust. It would be nice to find a southern western axle housing.
     
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  5. I used a chassis engineering kit on a 52 chev and it was okay and well built. Not sure of the other builders. I know there was one complaint about not low enough with the leaf springs on a 36 5w build here on this site.
     
  6. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

    Just went and searched. Found more positive than negative comments so ignore my first post :eek:
     
  7. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,672

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Use the original transverse spring flattened - spread your hanger out further apart on the housing - C notch the rails.
    These springs have a big arch that when flattened makes for a big drop …. A shorter front spring could be used if a rear starts growing too long when flattened.
     
    With parallels it will be hard to get it low without huge blocks that leave the springs hanging down looking like crap … plus its brand X design that has no place on an early ford
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2013
  8. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,869

    Harms Way
    Member

    I agree 100%,.... C.E. kits tuck up tight under the chassis and are almost invisible under a full fender car... The ride height is totally up to you with whatever blocks you decide to use, You can change it as often as you want.........And the ride is awesome
     
  9. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    '36 has the coolest radius rods, just sayin'.
     
  10. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,869

    Harms Way
    Member

    Yep ! He's right,... And I have used a ton of them in building chassis,... But never on a 35 or a 36... Just sayin' :cool::D
     
  11. Idaho/Dave
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 482

    Idaho/Dave
    Member
    from Idaho

    chassis engineering kit, clean and simple
     
  12. I had one suggestion to use a Model A rear crossmember, de-arch or use posies rear spring and a notch.
    Without the torque tube and only raduis rods, how do you get the extra strength to hold the rear axle in place?
    Is that a valid question?
    Thanks everybody for your replies.
     
  13. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,869

    Harms Way
    Member

    Using a model A rear crossmember and spring you would have to cut a pretty large hole in the trunk area to accommodate it.. The 35/36 Bones are really stout... But should be mounted to as close to there original configuration as possible Close to the center of the car.... This uses 36' bones, a 40 Merc. front spring and a custom bent crossmember.

    [​IMG]
     
  14.  
  15. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 3,869

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    CE rear leafs under my 40 with no lowering blocks. Don't want it any lower.
     
  16. I used the CE kit under my '35 and like the ride. I got an exhaust system from Red's Headers, but never thought about lowering blocks. Looked better with 2" blocks but then the tailpipe hit all the time, so the blocks came out. Just suggesting to plan ahead....
    RB
     
  17. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

     
  18. Okay
    I did a search on torque tubes, 36 raduis arms and torque arms. Quite a bit of engineering to get it right. I also understand better how the ford suspension works. I have a heavy foot and I could see breaking & bending stuff on a poorly thought out or executed set up.

    I want to have a suspension that is balanced or equal on the front and rear if that is the right term. When it comes to handling and all round drivability is there combinations that work and don't work between the front and rear? If I had a trianglulated 4 link rear and straight axle front would it drive okay or be any strange handling traits?
    Thanks for the education so far guys!
     
  19. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,054

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    1991-1994 Explorer 8.8 axles are equipped with 10" drum brakes, if you want to skip a few steps.
     
  20. Old parts are so rotten here, it is hard to find early 90s vehicles. The backing plates are always rotten and the drums too. The crushers give 100 to 200 and they are gone.
    I picked up 2 disc brake rears local and bought a set of used drum backing plates and hardware from Utah on evilbay and will buy new drums some sandblasting and be almost new.
    9 inch fords are long gone I these parts.
     
  21. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,707

    Weasel
    Member

    Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit under my '40 Ford sedan delivery with 8.8/drums and Bilstein gas shocks. 2" lowering blocks get it as low as I would ever want to go. Parts are readily available and it rides nicely....
     
  22. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    I have Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit under my 39, and goes real easy with Granada rear drops right in you may want lowering blocks.
     
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,054

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yikes! I just scored a 1991 Ranger 8.8, in the yard since 1996. It looks 6-months old. California dreamin'.
     
  24. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,707

    Weasel
    Member

    Paid $80 for my last 8.8" 3.73 posi minus drums but inc. backing plates and all other brake hardware. Everything checked out, looks minty - 47k miles on wrecked donor. Found it locally on C/L - what's not to love about that?
     
    micamountain likes this.
  25. shooter54
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 5,165

    shooter54
    Member

    I'm running a later chrysler rear end with 36 bones. I made some brackets that bolt to the wish bones and are welded to the diff that push the diff up and lower the car.

    I'm running stock spring.

    [​IMG]
     
  26.  
  27. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,314

    2935ford
    Member

    I had Posies parallel leafs and a '79 Bronco 9" (perfect width) under my '35 Slantback....worked very well.
     
  28. Does any of the aftermarket suppliers make a substitute for 36 radius rods? Maybe Pete & jakes or Drake?
    Thanks
     

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