I had problems with my Lincolns original wheels, had trouble getting the bead to set and the hubcaps kept coming off when using radials. Someone here suggested trying a modern wheel. So I got some off of a 82 Econoline and it fixed all that, except the back spacing is different so I can't put the fender skirts on. So what can I do here? Start scouring junkyards with a ruler and measuring more wheels? Ford ran that pattern on their trucks for 50 or so years so there's plenty out there.
Yeah I've got my originals, wanting to use a modern wheel made for a radial but have backspacing that will work. I've got some 15x5s and 15x6s from econolines and F150s but the backspacing on those won't let me put the skirts on the back.
I did just that with the original wheels on my '51 Pontiac wagon. I swapped rear axles this spring for a limited slip from a Caprice wagon, and the thing was about 2" wider. I THOUGHT the tires would clear the fender lip, and they did, but they hit the wheel house when the trailer was hitched up and suspension squatted. I drilled the rivets out, pushed the centers out on the rims, and using the hub flange as a lathe, centered the rim on the wheel center. I then welded rims back on about 3/4" from their original location. Then, I remounted the tires, then pulled them off and rewelded the rivet holes where air leaked out... Been fine since. Only problem is, while the tires don't hit now, the hubcap won't clear the fender skirt latch, so I'm still running sans skirts. I kinda like it without them tho...
Late model Dodge had that same pattern too, I used a set of dodge van wheels as some spares on my t-bucket. Don't know if you can get an idea of the spacing from this photo or not.
I just today found that wheels from a 1978 era Bronco have the same or very similar backspacing as the wheels from my 1946 lincoln.. but are made for disc brakes so they clear the 11" discs I'm putting up front and are made for radials.
Did a quick measurement and the originals seem to be about 5.5". I was looking at the originals and noticed the centers are pretty close to the front like in flynbrian's picture. So I looked at the econolines, not a huge difference, maybe 1.25" Originals Econolines What happens currently.
Yup, been there, done that. I knew my hubcaps would still be close to the skirts, after pushing the rim back, but I can live with it without them. I may modify the skirts with a flare at the bottom instead of the inner lip and just bolt them on, that'd look OK.
How does one find a shop that does? Can a body shop do it or do I need to look for a custom rim place?
5.5 backspacing, or is that the width from outer edge of wheel to the mounting surface? how wide are the rims? Reason I ask is that I happen to have a set of steel wheels from and old CJ5 out back. I can tell you if they'll match your stockers, and you can hit your local salvage yard. Jeep DJ5 (postal Jeep) may have even more backspacing that the CJ wheels I have.
Here's what I'm thinking of doing, with the flexing and losing hubcaps it was mainly the front that was a problem iirc. Makes sense since the rear doesn't move as much. My new problem is with the backspacing on a modern Ford wheel I can't put the fender skirts on. So maybe go back to the original wheels on the rear and keep a modern 15x6 on the front. So bias wheels on back, radial wheels on front, radial tires all the way around. This would make the tires stance on the front 1-2" wider on each side then the front. Any negative affect on handling from that?
Updating my own post with the answer. After a lot of googling, the answer is 94 to I think early 2000's Kia Sportage. I picked up a set from a 2000 sportage and the backspacing is 5.5" on a 15x6 steel wheel.
2 wheel drive Tahoe wheels worked on my dad's 62 Lincoln For custom wheels a 0 to -10 backspace is what worked
I think by 62 Lincoln went to a smaller wheel or different bolt pattern. These early 50's use the F150 pattern used by Ford until the 90's. Selbo is printed into these, did more googling and it brought me to the Korea Wheel Company Website. Looks like these are a +45 offset. Left side is Kia, right side Lincoln.
Another update, finally got the tires mounted, I've got at least an inch of clearance from the skirt.
Looks good. Your hubcaps must be rim mounted, not center mounted like my Pontiacs. I still haven't done anything about getting my skirts on. Brian
I use Suzuki SJ or Vitara wheels to move them in the garage and as long as they are not on the road, i don't know if they are easy to find in the US but here you almost get them for free. They are available in 16" and mostly 15".
Geo Tracker and Suzuki Sidekick use 5 on 5.5,as well as most older jeeps. `62 Lincoln was 5 on 5,same as GM trucks.
I saw the tracker and suzuki's listed, not sure if they have a deep enough backspacing. The jeeps won't work for this application, they have a neutral or maybe even a negative offset.
Don't know how much, or how fast, you expect to drive your Lincoln, but I would try to determine what the load rating is on those Kia Sportage wheels. That's a relatively light weight vehicle, I think, maybe 3000# or so, and I would guess your Lincoln closer to 4500#. If so, that's a 50% greater weight and although there is always SOME margin built in for overload, don't know if it's that much. It may not be an issue, especially in limited use, but thought I would mention it. Ray
I have been wondering this myself. The idea of a wheel from a Kia or Geo holding up a old Lincoln does make me wonder a little. Plus I'm no wheel engineer, but my basic thinking is that a neutral offset would be able to support more weight. You'd think a high positive or neutral offset might put more stress on the wheel. I'm going to stick with the Ford truck wheels on the front end. Okay, an email has been sent to Mr. Hoi Chans of the Korea Wheel Company asking for weight specifications... Will be interesting to see if I get a reply.
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