Opinions on stop-leak products?

I finally got around to installing a coolant bypass tube I had custom made to replace a rotted original. After filling the rad up with coolant, I noticed a slight drip out of the sidewall of the tube, must have developed a half a pin hole during bending. I also got a couple drips out of the honeycomb on the upper part of the radiator. More weeping than actual leaking, there's no stream coming out, just a little seepage.

In the past I have been against stop-leak products, but I know that most car manufacturers have used them in their new cars for years now. If the leaks were bigger I wouldn't consider it, but this is kind of the ideal situation for what those products were designed for.

The radiator is 78 years old, and I've already had it patched and pressure tested, if it has to come back out I'm going to have to drop a grand and get a new one fabbed up. No one wants to mess with these things anymore. Should I try a stop-leak as a last result?

 

You only have $6.00 to lose as opposed to $1000.00...Bars-Leaks has worked for me.

 

Use Dike. I know log truck drivers and circle track guys who swear by this stuff.
http://www.conklin.com/catalog/prod_info.asp?prfid=763

 

Them old radiators had big tubes. I'd try the stuff. Just watch your temp, and keep your nose sniffin the air for that terrible feet smell that stuff makes when it leaks out..

 

You know sort of off topic but when our enduro car had a crack in the block we used some of the block sealant stuff, two cans to be exact and it held up for two races. Thats like 200 laps or better. So why not give it a try?

 

I just don't want to risk damage to the engine

 

My biggest concern with that stuff has always been this: If the stuff will plug a leak, what keeps it from plugging up the tube rows in the radiator? Those old ones though, I don't think it will be an issue.

 

Guess I'll give it a try then

 

I'd have to agree ,I worked at a radiator repair shop for 5 years and would only use it if I was stuck on the side of the road with no options. It can clog up the rad tanks and tubes really bad doing more harm than good.I'm sure some are better than others ,like powder ones . I now work at Obama Motors and have never seen it used in an oem application,just my experience though.

 

The stop leak products definately work, but are ment to be a temperary solution, not a fix.

 

I was going to advise against it until I got to the part where that radiator is over 70 years old.

Yes, worth a shot.

 

We put two cubes of th AC type in every new car for years at the factory...........

 

Not used in OEM??

Actually both Chrysler and GM have used it in new autos for years and years...

I would suggest the type that is powder in a little clear tube, like powdered alum or copper.

Chrysler sells factory antifreeze with stop leak built in and GM sells little tablets, but I have often, and I mean often used the little clear plastic tubes of powder with absolutely NO problems.

 

AC?

I've been at odds with this thing since day one. Part of me whats to gut everything out now and just be done with it, but the other half of me wants to drive the thing in it's original state at least for a little while, then swap everything out once it's shot. The problem is that it's so damn original.

 

AC as in AC Delco... Factory.

Just put a tube of the powder in and enjoy your car... Up to two tubes if ya have to.

Seriously, it will be ok.

 

I've tried them all and I've had the best luck with "Aluma Seal" Another thing that won't permanently plug things up is ground black pepper, as it is organic it finally dissolves, had some liner orings seaping in a big truck Cummins and that would seal it it up. One of those 3oz bottles of pepper from Wally World.

 

Back in my dirt oval days (that's where my username came from) I was running late to a race one Sat. night, in heavy traffic in my tow rig w/283 sbc and didn't notice I had a leak from a split water hose till I was stopped waiting to turn left and in @ the track.
The temp gauge was pegged, I went on in and parked in the pits and ran the races for the night, fixing the leak when I had time. As I refilled the cooling system I added a large size can of "Bar's Leak".
The engine skipped like Hell for awhile, then smoothed out and I pulled the race car, trailer, etc. home with no more trouble.
This was early in the season and I ran that thing like that all season long. Every time it started to skip I added another can of Bar's Leak and kept on trucking!
When the season was over I pulled the heads and found cracks in the heads in the combustion chambers in seven (7) cylinders!
To me this represents a product that works, and I've recommended Bar's Leak ever since.
Dave

 

I used Bars Leaks to fix a minor leak at the top of the aluminum radiator in my roadster. It worked, with no apparent bad affects.

 

Never heard of the stuff. LOL
I put 2 or 3 tabs in everything I have the heads off of. Seals small leaks and head bolts, never had it plug up anything. Any of the sealers that are powdered Ginger Root should work. Years ago, I had to replace several heater cores after folks used Bars Leak, but that was the stuff in a bottle and there's no telling how much was put in the radiators (I didn't do it!)
Larry T

 

The GM # 3634621 or ACDelco # 10-108 stuff is for sealing porus aluminum... it was first used and developed for use in aluminum Caddy engines... then everything else that's come down the pike with aluminum components... it will not stop leaks in the radiator or much else. How do I know? I sell it. I also work at a radiator shop.

What kind've car is this? Honeycomb can be repaired by people that know what they are doing. The other part you are referring to can most likely be brazed by someone that knows what they are doing.

Bar's leak and things like that is a ban-aid on a bullet wound... for emergency use only.

Here's some people in your area that should know how to fix your items... if not then pm me and I'll put you in touch with the old timer at our shop. He gets radiators sent to him from all over the world. He's been doing them since a '54 Ford was a brand new car... maybe even longer.

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Ive used the silver stuff and had no problems Use what is recommended and dont over do it.I also used boiler repair stuff to plug the notorius heater core in a ford taurus .Bought 6 months before the job was done right .

 

I would also recommend the "Aluma Seal" brand. I have used it on cracked blocks and such.

 

The radiator is brass and the tube is chromed steel, if that matters.

The rad is in a 1931 Willys. If I have to rip it back out again, I will not be gentle.


.

 

I've also had many years of success with black pepper on the small leaks and the unexplained seeps. Seam splits and beyond, not so much. One-third to one-half of regular size shaker-full is about all I ever needed.

 

flush, cleaned, repaired... should be no need to buy a new radaitor.

the tube is probably fubar'd... unless you don't mind seeing a repair spot.

 

I don't care about seeing a repair spot, I just want it leak free

 

Can you get to the tube to solder it at the leak?

 

I've been reading into that while the thread is going on, it sounds like I'm going to be shelling out $1300 for a new core and that nobody will install due to lead concerns.

 

Go ahead and give it a try. I've used everything from black pepper to the silver flakes. Some times it doesn't work but most of the time it does.

 

As long as we're throwin' stuff in our radiators, try a handful of rice if you want to get someone's attention.