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Hot Rods Opinions on assembling a 32 frame from original parts.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kevin Lee, May 27, 2016.

  1. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,442

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    I have the rails and crossmembers to assemble a '32 frame. All clean original Ford stuff and I'm looking for opinions on assembly technique.

    The way I see it I can either bolt it all together through the original holes, get everything square with the world and weld it up. Or, bolt it together and remove one bolt at a time and replace with an original style rivet.

    Or maybe a bit of both?
     
  2. moonlight graham
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 159

    moonlight graham
    Member
    from wyo

    Call Dennis Lesky at the Ionia Hot Rod Shop, they have done this several times using original style ford rivets.
    They have a web page with photos. Hope this helps.

    Geoffrey
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  3. Call me when you want help with the bucking bar bro!
     
  4. Kinda depends on the style of car you want to wind up with.
     

  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Two other resources...some good riveting discussions on FordBarn A, and Marco Tahatras site covers assembling a NOS Model A frame from separate NOS parts.
    Big Flats rivet has a film.
    But...what are you up to here? What's going on top?
     
  6. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,641

    thirtytwo
    Member

    If you weld all the crossmembers in a unboxed frame eventually it's going to tear from twisting , I believe the rivits and location of them allows all the pieces to work and move slightly
     
    The37Kid likes this.
  7. Remember that they made two different rear crossmember for the frame depending on whether the reinforcements
    were missing, on the outside or on the inside of the frame. Sorry I don't have the dimensions. Unless you are doing a restoration you don't need to worry about changes to the front cross member.

    Charlie Stepnens
     
  8. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,799

    Pewsplace
    Member

    As stated above, what is your design plan? If you want the original look on a hiboy where the rivets show then do the rivets. I have done a few with rivets but they looked poor. Bolts just don't look right to me in a traditional build although almost all of my early builds had a bolted/welded front model - A crossmember. I have also used button heads to resemble rivets. Here are some photos of various attempts. Good luck!

    20130716_194015.jpg
    Here is a stock frame that has been tacked in place during riveting procedure.
    $_57-2.jpg
    You can see the bolts on the inside of this assembly. You can use button heads then weld up the hole.
    $_57-3.jpg
    Here is the rear showing rivets
    $_57-1.jpg
    Here is the front crossmember. Note the top rail rivets are countersunk for fenders. You could use allen heads for these and weld up the holes.
     
  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 17,449

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'd bolt it together, then clamp/tack it in a jig to prevent movement during the re-riveting. If you are going to box it, or smooth it, forget the rivets and just weld it up when it's in the jig.

    My brother recently did a simplified method of jigging a fairly straight original frame on his project car. Placed it on really-heavy-duty steel sawhorses under the front and rear axle areas, made those absolutely level with steel plates under the legs, then clamped and weighted everything down. He used a blueprint of measurements and made legs that bolted into the various holes on the tops and bottoms of the rails to keep the correct widths of the various locations. We did LOTS of measurements from a center string, and diagonally, during all welding operations. It came out really nicely, and is actually much straighter than when he began.

    I wouldn't do this on loose rails, but if you have a nice stock K member to put in there, you could do it this way as well.
     
  10. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 6,299

    Marty Strode
    Member

    This one was done with a combination flathead and button head bolts, along with some welding, the button heads were filled. BTW the work was done by HAMB Member MAD 034. Wayne 5.jpg Wayne 9.jpg
     
    Pewsplace likes this.
  11. jailhousebob
    Joined: Jun 18, 2009
    Posts: 741

    jailhousebob
    Member
    from Illinois

    I,ve done a few with rivets and have had good results.I build very traditional stuff.Flatheads,early ford transmissions and banjo rears so the rivets look "right" at least to me.If i were building big horsepower cars with alot of torque i would use a different approach.The riveting process is not difficult if you have the right tools.The last one i did (current 32 5 window project) i bought the bucking bars that attach to an air hammer and it was easy enough that i did the job without any help . The expense for the tools was
    minimal.
     
  12. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,442

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Good idea with the sawhorses and weights. I did something similar with the frame currently under my coupe using sawhorses and a straight model A frame with some tubing extensions as the jig.

    Good ideas all around though. Looks like I'll be riveting it back together.
     
    Speedy Canuck likes this.
  13. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,799

    Pewsplace
    Member

    I thought you had a 33 tudor sedan hiboy that was going together? What happened to that project? My mistake.

    1301rc-16-o+1933-ford-tudor-sedan-project+rendering.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2016
  14. I riveted mine. It went really well.
     
  15. @Pewsplace That was Rob Fortier's (R andC) wasn't it? Being built at Circle City Hotrods?
     
  16. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,442

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    @Pewsplace I'm the real Kevin Lee – you might have me confused with that other one.

    Lots of votes for rivets. Get ready cactus1 – this might be the closest thing to an excuse we'll ever have to buy spud wrenches!
     
  17. 2muchstuff
    Joined: Mar 17, 2004
    Posts: 303

    2muchstuff
    Member
    from Eastern KS

    Another vote for rivets only.

    When you guys are ready - I'm in. I might be able to borrow the correct bucking bars - already broken in on a 32 frame! Give me a heads up and I'll try and track them down........
     
  18. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,003

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    I'm redoing my 46 Olds and using button heads in lieu of rivets as it's too hard to get into boxed sections with what I've done to the frame to date. When done all I need to do is weld up the heads and give them a quick linish and no one will know.
     
  19. image.jpeg Let me know!!!
     
  20. Where did you source your bucking bars from?
     
  21. jailhousebob
    Joined: Jun 18, 2009
    Posts: 741

    jailhousebob
    Member
    from Illinois

    Big Flats rivet in upstate NY. He also has a mini screw jack for holding the rivet head inside a channel that i found very handy
     
    Speedy Canuck likes this.
  22. Thanks!
     
  23. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,103

    bct
    Member

    I was doing flush rivets this morning. Turned out great. I found the 1.5xd rule too much for the front cross rivets . 1/4×9/16" filled the countersink nice.
     
  24. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,103

    bct
    Member


    Could you please post a pic of it.?
     

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