Register now to get rid of these ads!

Open drive conversion for Banjo rear axle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by PunkRodder, May 8, 2008.

  1. PunkRodder
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 480

    PunkRodder
    Member

    Can anone tell me where I might find (see pic) an adapter for a lat 30's banjo rear end? I want to connect a standard drive shaft to a banjo.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,592

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Speedway sells 'em too.
     
  3. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    I got mine from Hot Rod Works. Quality.
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  4. PunkRodder
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 480

    PunkRodder
    Member

    Thanks fellas. Those parts are pretty spendy arent they? Any way to get out cheap or make your own?
     
  5. AnimalAin
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 3,417

    AnimalAin
    Member

    If you are a machinist and don't value your time, I guess you could get one for less....

    Some late-40s pickups have parts that might be compatible, depending on which pinion you have, but could be hard to find. The hard to find part is the reason people make the aftermarket parts.
     
  6. kidcampbell71 likes this.
  7. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    If you have a lathe and access to a TIG welder it's easy. Made my own in a couple of hours.
     
  8. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

    Yep, you can even do it with a MIG :eek::eek::eek:



    Plenty of tech articles on here showing this. I did one, I think Lowsquire did one and the one I based mine on was done years ago by Smokey. Search them out.
     
  9. the shadow
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,104

    the shadow
    Member

    dude, I have a 6 spline coupler thats ben welded to a 12 bolt chevy yoke by my welder at work (stick welded with Nyrod nickle alloy for cast to steel applications) I also have the steel tube adapter & new seal for the conversion. all you need to do is cut down and prep your old tube , I can give you the dimension (length) that I cut mine too so it all bolts up). I had one cut and ready to go (pic#3) but ended up going another route and used the tube stub for something else.
    I'll sell you this set up for $45.00 + shipping??
    even if your gonna run a ford driveshaft you can get u-joints that interchange chevy yokes to ford yokes!
    let me know, cause I can't use it anymore
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  10. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,564

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    theres a deal .. buy that!!
     
  11. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,367

    Dan
    Member

    I would like to try this conversion...what is that seal so I can get one at the parts house??? thanks-
     
  12. AV8Paul
    Joined: Mar 2, 2003
    Posts: 1,813

    AV8Paul
    Member Emeritus

    Get it directly from Hot Rod Works. They did the hard work developing it. The others are off shore knock off's.
     
  13. overkillphil
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 303

    overkillphil
    Member

    Yeah, DON"T use the one from Speedway. It's sloppy junk, HRW or make your own.
     
  14. Southfork
    Joined: Dec 15, 2001
    Posts: 1,463

    Southfork
    Member

    Hm-m-m, I always thought that Wayne Atkinson developed it and sold it to the Hot rod Works. I could be wrong, however. I'm sure someone will correct me If I am.
     
  15. joe hart
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 2

    joe hart

    Do you still have this conversion kit?
     
  16. Remember the torque tube keeps the rear end from rotating. You will need to add some bars to keep the rear end from rotating. Just splitting and attaching the existing radius to the frame will not be strong enough.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
  17. 42merc
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 701

    42merc
    Member

    The last two posts were about a 10 year old thread.
     
  18. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 944

    lake_harley
    Member

    How about a Model A rearend that's already been cleaned, bearings set, converted to open driveline and the brakes have been converted to hydraulic? Oh....and I just happen to have one like that for sale.;)

    Lynn
     
  19. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,917

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    READ THE DATE ON HIS POST = May 8 2008 Google will screw you over every time you find a link to the HAMB date wise.
    https://www.hotrodworks.com/ As mentioned in the thead back in 2008 still has the pieces you are hunting.
     
  20. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,473

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    You guys should let @the shadow answer for himself. He may still have those parts and may want to off them.:)
     
  21. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,424

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    Like had been posted Speedways kit is junk. Late 40’s pickups had a banjo rear with an open driveline. That shouldn’t be too hard to find
     
  22. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 5,917

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    A good open drive ring gear and pinion for a late '40s pickup IS hard to find.
     
  23. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,166

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    IIRC, '42->'47 Ford pu had the open driveline/banjo rear, they were leaf spring-sprung.
    FWIW; I have 2 of them; each = banjo, pinion shaft, seal-plate, n ujoint yoke. OEM ford pu.
    Was keeping them to make homemade qc's, but may not get to them anytime soon. $125 ea. + shipping.
    Marcus...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  24. the shadow
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,104

    the shadow
    Member

    Sorry guys I sold that in the "for sale" section a long time ago. It was not hard to make if you have access to a machine shop and a good experienced welder as you need to join steel to iron (need nickel rod and slow cooling) seal was a SKF- 14247, the tube cap (seal retainer) was machined for the seal and was a press fit (interference fit) to the ID of the torque tube.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  25. PHIL COOPY
    Joined: Jul 20, 2016
    Posts: 409

    PHIL COOPY
    Member

    I'm using a Speedway, so far it works fine. Had to replace the seal that I damaged installing it. Easy to get another and this time I lathed a seal driver of the proper size.
     
  26. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,113

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I'm going to put this thread in my deep memory for later and then when I need it I'll forget it! Seriously, if you do this conversion do you keep the torque tube and the bones? Less work if you do I suppose.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.