Projects ONE PIECE AT A TIME ('47 FORD COUPE)

I had to bend mine on my 5.0, it was for a low hooded car like a Mustang and it pointed toward the front. I gently straightened it by hand, it felt like copper it bent so easily! Mine is a slip in, goes in a hole cast in the side of the block. Now I have got to build a bracket to keep it in place, it originally bolted to a manifold stud, but after bending, the bracket is on top of the Explorer manifold. I'm thinking I'll build a clamp type bracket that will clamp around the tube and bolt to a different manifold stud.

 

My wife's first published book showed up today. Hopefully she can buy me some car parts with it

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@topher5150, congratulations to your wife! That is quite an accomplishment.

 

Thanks she's working on a second book, and a follow up to this one.

 

not sure how much more bend i can take out of it. i have the steering box right next to the oil pan

 

What steering box? Did you put in a Saginaw power unit yet?

 

yes i did...wonder if i could pull a braided dip stick from the junk yard if that would work better.

 

This is gonna be fun trying to fit exhaust in there open to suggestions.
On the bright side I got my dip stick in

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I don't see a factory manifold going in there....

I think you are going to have to build a set of headers and drop them through the X member close to the frame, or go into the fenderwell. You might get by with something that dumps in front, but I bet the oil filter would be in the way, and even a remote filter might not give you enough room. You can get a 90 degree adapter and turn the filter down or back, but you'd still have to snake between the adapter and frame, it'd be close. Now you know why there's not many 351W's in fat fender Fords!

 

sounds like fun. I wonder if modifying shorty headers would work?

 

Shorty's dump at the rear, about where the steering shaft is at, but might be a good place to start. My Lincoln is longer in front, where my 302 sits the steering box is in the way of the motor mount, I had to put a crossmember underneath and come back up with a mount that was under the box. Then there wasn't enough room on top of the box for a manifold or header to drop down, so I went with Explorer manifolds which the front three cylinders go up and back, then drop between the last two. I can't tell if you'd have enough room for the rear drop without getting into the steering shaft, but from the pic it doesn't look like it would work. All I can say is measure, measure, measure. The Explorers also had a factory header, you might be able to take couple and cut and fit pieces off them to get something that will work. You should be able to pick up some and maybe some Mustang or pickup shortys in a bone yard....

 

@BamaMav I stole your pic from a while back...Is this a better pic???

 

Yeah, good comparison! You can’t really tell it from my pic, but my engine sits lower in the chassis than yours, that’s why I couldn’t use a mount like yours.

Looking at it from that angle, you might get by with an Explorer manifold or factory header if it will squeeze between the steering and the block. It will be close if it does. I think I’d get the steering shaft connected and see how much space is left.

Keep looking, you’ll figure it out soon. I’ve got faith in you!

 

As close as the exhaust will be to the steering box I'd recommend a shield between them. the headers on my cpe are close to the box and they cooked the first box. Put an aluminum shield between them and no problems after many thousands of miles

 

Got the latch plate in but it won't shut. Am I safe to assume that the spring part slides up and the pin locks into place?

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Just a heads-up, but if that's the power steering pump bracketry you're planning on using, make sure you brace that pivot bolt sturdily off the water pump. That's the same bracket my PO used (and mounted off the same point), and that bolt broke several times before I scratch-built a whole new bracket. You may not need to go as far as I did as my motor uses the all-aluminum '62-65 front dress and the early pump has no accessory bosses like yours; I had a Z-shaped bracket and it allowed too much flex. If you need to put bends in the bracket, I'd recommend using 1/4" thick steel to prevent flex...

I'll also note you can't 'rotate' the cast bracket as the pump is 'clocked' to it and only fits one way.

 

Yes the spring is supposed to compress. Soak the whole thing in white vinegar. It'll clean it up real nice. You should also clean that plate assembly and lube it.

 

I put it there to check clearance. I'm thinking about getting a Saginaw pump, and an aftermarket pump bracket to get it to sit closer to the engine.

 

Does anyone know if Lincoln door push buttons work on trunks?

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Went to the junkyard today walked up to the first v8 explorer I saw and someone already took the heads cut the exhaust pipes and all I had to do was pull them out.
Unfortunately the flange on the driver's side gets hung up on the steering box. On the bright side I got some nice seats for the back

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I wonder if switching to manual steering box will open up some space???

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Talking to a guy on a 41-48 Ford facebook group yesterday, and he used the speedway SBF lake style header kit and just ran it between the x-member and the frame by the firewall. Seems like a much better fit than trying to cram the headers between the steering box and the engine.

 

I guess the reason the Exploder manifolds worked so good on my car is that it's longer in the front and the steering box is farther forward. I like the looks of that Speedway header, might do that to mine later on.

 

Pictures cab be deceiving but it looks like the plug wires and the wire loom coming from the firewall are awful close to the headers. I wonder if this is a build that hasn't hit the road yet, If not he may have heat issues with the headers routed the way they are

 

You're 39 minutes apart, how come you two guys have never met?

 

#1) Got the latch plate in but it won't shut. Am I safe to assume that the spring part slides up and the pin locks into place?

Yes. Had the same problem with a prewar Lincoln. Ensure the upper spring assembly moves freely. The purpose of the spring loaded collar is to keep the latch from rattling once it fastens. Next, clean and lubricate the lower latch. For it to fasten, the latch plate (upper right corner) must be able to slide in and out (to allow the upper hood pin to poke through and then be "captured" by the plate.

#2) Does anyone know if Lincoln door push buttons work on trunks?

The Lincoln door push buttons use a simple plunger operation. If you can modify the trunk release so it is tripped by a short push movement then it will work. This would involve changing the operating plane from a rotary to a push motion.

Congrats to your wife for her ongoing literary success.

Lucas

 

Kind of surprised to, but I'm the four years I've been on here I think that I only met two or three HAMBers in real life

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I'm running stock exhaust manifolds off of a 66 mustang on my 48. Clears perfectly

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What kind of steering do you have? Were the manifolds 289 Hi-Po's?

 

Have you gone to the Relix Riot or Nats North? Lots of us at those two venues