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One More Time for all the Old Times (305 Chevy post)...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fat Hack, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. fuel pump
    Joined: Nov 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,620

    fuel pump
    Member
    from Caro,MI

    When I saw who started this thread I thought I was having a flashback:D You always make things interesting Greg. I'll tell Frank (FAB32) your back .... I'm sure he will be overjoyed:D
     
  2. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Thanks, Fuel Pump...you're a peach! ;)
     
  3. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

     
  4. deerchooper
    Joined: May 1, 2010
    Posts: 131

    deerchooper
    Member

    i cant wait for the next chapter of this thread. thank you for taking the time to slow down and tell all.

    i just got done rebuilding a 455 olds, i too took all of the casting marks off of the motor on the outside just to clean it up and be different than most. i also opened up the oil drain holes and casting flashing around the lifter bores inside as well.
     

  5. I couldn't agree more!!
     
  6. I double checked the date twice, glad to see you back and sharing your experience and knowledge here. Thanks
     
  7. cowboy1
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 914

    cowboy1
    Member
    from Austin TX

    I've also have a LG4 305 small block that i've been kicking around the idea of using. Thank you for your insight.
     
  8. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member


    Haha welcome back ! And a thread I can use to thanks eh!
     
  9. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,620

    BuiltFerComfort
    Member

    Great that you're back. Subscribing.
     
  10. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,792

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Excellent timing. I'm getting ready to tear into mine and some of this will come in handy. Thanks for posting.
     
  11. hutchman
    Joined: Jun 14, 2012
    Posts: 22

    hutchman
    Member

    I'm a complete noob to this forum, so I have no knowledge of you or your background.
    But I believe you speak the truth. It is my contention that a good high quality home built engine is a much better investment than any crate motor. I'm watching this with much interest.
     

  12. Go back and search some of fathack's threads. Good stuff..
     
  13. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Still not able to move pictures from my antique, coal-burning digital camera onto the computer, but at this point all basic block prep is done and the next step is to cart the block off to the machine shop for sonic checking and magnafluxing to make sure there are no hidden cracks I didn't see. From there, it can proceed to machining, with a bore, hone, hot-tank and deck resurfacing. Nothing fancy, just the essentials.

    That will leave time for refurbishing some random parts for possible re-use...things like the flexplate, alternator brackets, intake and exhaust manifolds, fasteners and the like. It doesn't hurt to have these items tanked, blasted and thoroughly cleaned and then primed and painted to store for use in the final assembly later on. Doing this in your 'down time' means that you won't have to stop and do it later, and that the engine can be 'buttoned up' as soon as the long block is assembled.

    Being that I have no plans for this engine once it's completed, it can still go in a couple of different directions, but in any case, the basic block prep, machining operations and most of the short block assembly is the same no matter how it's topped off (cylinder heads, induction system, etc). It will remain a two bolt main LG4 block with an .030" or .040" (depending on my machinist's recommendations) overbore, a mild deck resurfacing, and will use commonly available 'off-the-shelf' pistons, rods, etc.

    The original heads from this engine were in terrible shape, and were nothing special, so I gave them to a co-worker who said his buddy wanted them. That just saved me from hauling them to the curb for the local scrap-pickers to fight over! The engine will be getting aftermarket heads, either World Products SR Torquer 305 heads for a milder build, or possibly something a little hotter, but that remains to be seen.

    Off to get some parts cleaning and painting done!
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,258

    squirrel
    Member

    What kind of a camera do you have, that's causing you so much trouble?
     
  15. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151

    slammed
    Member

    The same one you used to have.
     
  16. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    It's a 'Medion' brand camera...'bout the size of a brick, but far less usefull. Not a whole lot to show at this point, but if I ever get it figuredout,I'llpost them up.
     
  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,258

    squirrel
    Member

    Might be worth spending a hunnderd bucks on a modern camera... or find an old computer at the thrift store to use with the old camera!
     
  18. Buy a camera with a memory card, and just get a reader... when you stick the card in the reader and plug it in, it's just like another hard drive or disk... just edit them using Microsoft Picture Viewer and leave 'em on there until it's full, and buy a new card at Walmart.
     
  19. no55mad
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,874

    no55mad
    Member

    Where is the LG 4 designation on the block and what are the good stock 305 heads to use? Also, is the 305 internally balanced like the 350? Thanks
     
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,258

    squirrel
    Member

    LG4 is the option code, it does not appear on the block. There are numbers on the block, stamped on the front, that might help you figure out which engine it is and what car it's from.
     
  21. Good stuff Fathack, like your style, applicable to all mills re. method(s), good guff for engine builders. Subscribed.
     
  22. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    I'm not sure the little birdie inside the camera that pecks out the picture on stone tablets would know what to do with a memory card...and the user would sure be lost, too!

    I guess I'll have to break down and buy something made post-Y2K someday!
     
  23. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    LG is an option code for some 305 engines. My block has "LG" cast into it as well as the casting number, but in reality, it's just like any other 1976-1986 305 block...two bolt mains with a two piece rear seal.

    They are internally balanced, like any other small block (except for a 400, of course), and in fact...the crankshaft out of my 1983 305 has the same casting number as the crank out of the 1977 350 that I built last summer. Same stroke, same journal size, same everything...just a little different balancing due to the difference in piston diameter (and hence, recriprocating weight).

    Heads for 305 engines generally have smaller combustion chambers than their 350 counterparts do, and valve size is usually limited to 1.84" for the intake valves. There are lots of folks who will tell you that heads with 1.94" intake valves won't fit a 305 due to the smaller bore size, but if you've ever actually bolted a 1.94" head onto a bare, standard-bore 305 block and then flipped it over to gaze through the empty cylinder, you'll see that it works just fine. A larger 2.02" intake valve might pose a serious problem, but the 1.94" valves clear okay.
     
  24. 68vette
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 306

    68vette

    Even though I am building a 283 for my 49 fleetline....I have had two 305's that I rebuilt in two street rods...a 55 f100 and my 51 ford sedan.

    The torque ( with a 1287 cam) was outstanding....hit a mountain road and you did not have to mash the gas hardly any to maintain speed....and the car ran great and got 24.6 MPG running 70 plus on the interstate WITHOUT overdrive....this 305 was extremely smooth also.

    And I think they were installed in 1980 California corvettes....my old shoe was about 20 min from my house in the photo.
     

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  25. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    I've got a question for you, Fathack.....

    Do you have any idea the proportion of 305's post-86/87 that have the cam lobe for the mechanical fuel pump? The engine I have is as you said, I was wrong...it's numbers indicate 87-91 build year. It's got the block off plate bolted on, when I remove it, it has oil in the little valley inside, and I haven't looked all the way up, but I I think it's drilled for the fuel pump pushrod, too. The retainer bolt hole is there on the front as well. The big question is primarily the cam lobe. Just wanted to ask out of curiosity. I plan on testing it in a week or two by putting a rod in there and turning it over with the starter to see if it moves...otherwise I'll either go with the electric fuel pump I've got, or maybe swap out the cam for the Edelbrock one I've got lying around.
     
  26. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    I've never messed with the 'newer' (1987-up) 305 engines, so I'm not sure if they have the extra lobe on the camshafts for the fuel pumps or not, but I would think that they don't. Swapping the cam is a simple enough task, provided that the block is machined for the fuel pump pushrod from the factory.
     
  27. Dog Dish Deluxe
    Joined: Dec 23, 2011
    Posts: 778

    Dog Dish Deluxe
    BANNED
    from MO.

    305's are good motors. I think they last a lot longer than 350's. Seems like the smaller bore is easier on the bottom end or something.
     
  28. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    Yeah, that's kinda what I'm figuring.

    What are your thoughts on turbo charging these little guys, like with a vintage Martin turbo kit? Ones like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  29. Great thread ..planning on a 305/200 4R for my next project. Kinda want to do a gas-mileage motor opposed to all-out power
    Two questions:
    Whats the optimum flowing stock iron head casting ? (obviously with 1.94/1.60 valves) ??
    Is there an aluminum (stock or aftermarket) that works on a 305??
     
  30. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151

    slammed
    Member

    Edlebrock makes set of aluminum heads in the $1000.00 area for smaller displacement chevys. Vortec also work well.
     

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