Hot Rods One for the sparky magicians

Firstly I just want to thank everyone on this board. Your advice has been amazing. I am far far from an expert, but I love learning and will take on all guidance and advice

That said auto-electrical might as well be a mythical art...I really struggle with this

Car back together and yes I have had to wire in electric fans for the new air con. Front runner system came with a 1 wire alternator. It does have a pigtail section for the other 2 wires but they are not active right now.

1st question, I'd really like to get my GEN idiot light on dash rewired in. Can I convert a 1 wire to a 3 wire or do I need to buy a new 3 wire alternator? It's a CS130 style from CVR Racing

2nd question. My car (61 Buick) has a COLD and HOT light on the dash and a 2 wire temp sender in the block near thermostat housing. It's never shown "cold" ever. HOT used to work, but is not working now. To test it I simply connected the spade connector of that wire to ground, expecting that growing it would complete the circuit. Here's what it does. When I turn the key the HOT flashes on for a millisecond then goes out

Now this seems to be the same issue I was having with the fuel pump. It would prime for a split second then lose power to it.

Obviously I've done something to the car that the system gets power then stops.

Interestingly I run wires from IGN 1 and 2 (bridged) to fuel pump and distrubtor and the car runs fine, so it clearly maintains power there.

I did replace the ignition barrel and housing as mine would not move to "lock' and couldn't get the key out. But would that simple change have killed the electrical system somehow? In run everything works, except some circuits (ie HOT lamp and Fuel pump).

Thoughts?

 

What type of alternator, GM,Ford?

 

First I would send that one wire back and get a normal CS130…that will run your Gen. light and charge better when you first start the car…my opinion. It sounds like you have an issue with the ign. Switch. You can test the switch with a test light…both the ign. terminal and the acc. terminal should light up. Most vehicles use a relay that ties into a signal for the electric fuel pump so it will shut-off when the engine stops running…an accident or some situation where you can’t shut-off the key.

 

Check out Ron Francis Wiring. I believe they have what it takes to make the idiot light work on a one wire alternator. FWIW: the one wire on my flathead starts to charge as soon as it fires at idle.