Projects on the bandwagon Heyitsnate's 36 5w build

Hey Nate do you have these brackets ?



they go from the fender flange to the headlight brace





Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Hey thanks!!! I was wondering where these brackets in my box of stuff fit!!!

 

thanks! the subrails are about an 1/8...i may redo them in 16g. they're kind of overkill. yes, i have those pieces. still here, i've been distracted building planishing hammers. i'll get back into it soon!

 

NATE, If your subrails are made out made out of 11(.109) or 12(.125)Ga., I don't think that is overkill. Yours are only .062 thicker than 16Ga. From what I've seen in the way of bent and distorted body mounting holes in my 36 and other old Fords they should have been heavier gauge from the beginning. Besides, it would be a shame to have to plow that row all over.
Building planishing hammers, plural? I would be happy with just one. There must be a demand for them. How about giving us a look at one of yours. I know my hand planisher sure came in handy knocking out major fender dents.
Keep up the good work and informative posts.
Best regards and Good Luck with all your endeavors, KB.

 

Cool thanks for the info.

 

mmmm......yes.....

 

yes.plural. i'm building a large one powered by tin man tech motors and dies more for forming, and a smaller chicago pneumatic style for planishing. i plan to make more of the CP hammers. they are great tools.i'll post a pic a little later.thanks for the input. i second guess a lot on longer builds, thats why i love the HAMB, getting feedback can save a lot of work!

 

Let's see the picture!!


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

this big hammer uses tinman tech dies and motors, here's a urethane die i made. it moves metal really fast.

this one is a cp style for just planishing. i bumped the throat up to 16", but i don't like it.im scaling it back to 14" , stock is 12".
it was a pleasant distraction, and now i have a couple more useful tools for the shop but it's time to get back on this ford.

 

Nice work!


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Cool hammers.I've been thinking about building a cp style planishing hammer.Just wondering,where did you bought the air unit?

 

Fantastic fab skills. Nice hammer! Ehh Ehh

 

thanks! michigan pneumatic. e-airtool sells the type 2 block style through their site and ebay too. i wanted a type 1 ,its not as heavy duty but i only wanted to planish.

 

That's super cool. Your ingenuity and ability to bring it to fruition always impresses me.

 

Hey Nate. These hammers looks really nice.Now the fun can begin

 

Thanks for the answer,Nate!

 

i realized some of the bracing at the cowl i put in to do the firewall was fighting the door business. it's literally been hell getting the cowl ,hinges and doors to play nice together but i'm finally getting somewhere. i made some little risers for the cowl feet today , fixed the lower hinge of the passenger door, and worked on the grill and inner grill panels. my beltlines are really close. theyre only off by about a 16th....will the dovetails pick that up or is that cheating?!?!

 

I really like the plans you have for your grill Nate.If I didn´t allready have bought the LaSalle grill I probably have done the same.Good to see you´re back in buissines.

 

can't go wrong with a lasalle grille!!! i believe this is the preferred treatment for 5 windows….

 

Nate, I really enjoyed our visit, I look forward to more and maybe some of those Wednesday build seminars next month. It was great meeting Marshall, he's another real Jimmy fan and has a serious rod shop, thanks for that as well. I'm really impressed with your ingenuity in creating those planishing hammers also.
I fought the door alignment battle as well. And trunk fit, and grill twist, and hood alignment, and fender fitment. My body was wracked from a minor rearend accident sometime in the past. The damage wasn't even apparent but can best be described as a square that was pushed into a slight parallelogram. After squaring the frame on a frame rack and boxing in the rails I bolted the body down completely and unwracked the body by using a portapower and a come-a-long, some added bracing between the rear frame kick ups and the trunk hinge supports. It took a lot of cross measuring to figure out where it was out of whack and where to push and where to brace. It was amazing that even the hinge pillars were effected from a bump in the right rear end.
With your car I suggest that you bolt the body down tight like I did and support the frame by the spring mounts as if it were a roller. The door alignment will change if you jack the frame from any other points because of frame flex. Also it's not unreasonable to expect that the hit yours took above the left quarter window could have moved both the "A" and "B" pillars slightly.Then you may need to use a come-a-long or a portapower to move the hinge pillar to get the beltlines to zero out without the dovetails installed. A move of a 1/32" (.032)for/aft of the lower hinge will translate into nearly 1/8" up/down of the dovetail at the other end of the door. Then reinstall the dovetail, which I think is really only used to keep the stress off the hinge pillar when we hit bumps or drive on rough roads. Also the hinge pillars can be wracked sideways which will make the door not line up top to bottom with the body at the latch end. Make sure that the diagonals from a lower hinge bolt to a upper hinge bolt are exactly the same. You probably know most of this stuff but maybe it will help some other Hambers. You can also fix all the door gaps by the same methods while you're at it. That will save you a lot of grief later for sure. Don't be afraid to use some gentle force, it shows more love than your car ever saw before.
Glad to see you are back on it, don't get discouraged, you have come a long way already.
Best Regards and Good Luck with all your endeavors, KB.

 

thanks KB. i need to recheck everything. thanks for swinging by!
ok. so enough boring. lets make some panels.... here you see some crude templates and a press die i made. i made 1 master plate with a guide pin, and 3 die sets for different embossings that all fit on the master plate. 1 wheelwell is out of the car so getting templates was nice.

the die guide pin has a mark,and when the part is pressed and the mark shows, its factory depth. the other larger plates help with clamping too.

heres the panels with plenty of extra meat to trim for final fit. i still have to roll 2 steps in each one but since i made the trunk floor i'll do those at the time of install so they line up nice.

 

i thought for a long time how i would get the fender fit perfect with the back section. first i made a tapey mess, then transferred it to cardboard.

i made 2 pairs of panels. the first ones sucked. then i bolted the panels to the actual fenders and marked just above them, then built a wooden hammerform and hammered the radius. i got some serious tucks in the corner but it's ok, after i trimmed it it shrunk real nice on the stump.

ok. so you dont need a bead roller for steps. i used a piece of flatbar and this corking tool with a umhw die i made.. total cost? about 2.00 for the plastic, the rest was scrap.

then i stamped the details in the bottom. so now i have a recess that fits my fenders, and fixes some of the fender well bead. pretty happy right now. i was stressing over making that tailpan flow. there's a little trick in these that will come into play later when i do the fenders.

 

Looks perfect Nate.

 

thanks kenneth! actually not good enough though. i made a new hammerform for the end and tuned them up.

kind of a strange approach, but was able to repair the most damage this way. the excess will be trimmed away as i weld it. also, i can tip the end of the fender towards or away from the tailpan so it looks cleaner. i like it tipped out a bit, some 36's the ends of the fenders look too pinched. i'm planning on making a small reverse-curve filler piece. the ems inner tailpan fit all wierd so i'm doing the outside and fitting the inner tailpan after.

here its all tacked in, and partially trimmed. i hate welding close to edges but hey man. gotta get it done.

i caught a bad cold so i was pretty much slow sluggish and dumb all day.

 

Nice work man

 

Great looking parts Nate !

 

NICE NATE! Panels look great. Wish my fenders would have been good enough to use as a template.

 

haha thanks kip, my fenders are pretty clapped out but between the 2 and the remains of a wheelwell i did manage to get something figured out.

 

Great build, thanks for sharing! Keep it up....


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Hey Nate, Since you're working on fenders, I have a couple sections "wheel well opening round overs" left from my fender repairs I'ld be happy to send you. I picked them up off Ebay from a guy who hand forms them. They saved me a lot of work where I had to patch my wheel wells. I also tigged and migged a continuous piece of 1/8" filler rod to the inside bottoms and wheel wells of all my fenders to prevent any future tearouts from occurring to the fender edges. That made a major difference in the solidity of the fenders as well. PM me if you can use them.
Hope you're doing well.
Best Regards and Good Luck with all your endeavors, KB.