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Projects ON HOLD... hotrod ['38-9] or ['40] glovebox door skin

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sloppy jalopies, Jan 28, 2018.

  1. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Got [3] '40 dashes, [1] glovebox door... had some scrap 14" x 12" pieces of sheetmetal,
    measured and cut the corners to fold behind the "skin"... I left the hem at 1", thought I would need it to weld hinges to... NOPE...
    KEEP THE HEM TO 3/8" OR LESS , it will CREASE THE SKIN when you run it through the slip roller...
    marked ;
    DSCN2181.JPG
    cut;
    DSCN2183.JPG
    rolled;
    DSCN2280.JPG
    DSCN2276.JPG DSCN2278.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
    tb33anda3rd, RICH B, Stogy and 3 others like this.
  2. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 2,765

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  3. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 4,511

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @sloppy jalopies...looks great...you made it look easy. A couple of things.

    Perhaps for those that are new to this,
    - how did you cut it
    - how did you fold it
    - just a profiling observation the bottom of the door looks to overhang the bottom profile of the dash. Does the door possibly require one more bend to match the dash profile?

    I am sure your going to continue your great tech article but a couple of suggestions which you may be already considering.

    - show hinge fabrication and attachment
    - show lock and or finger pull addition

    Lastly show a side by side with the original as it helps the understanding of how close this is to Henry's version.

    Great stuff and thanks for sharing Sloppy.
     
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  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    cut with a shear at a buddy's workplace.
    hems were folded on a buddy's 4' brake.
    skin was rolled through a buddy's slip roller.
    .
    Its just a plug to fill the hole... note the lower right dash has been cut and welded, the door bottom may still need tweeking... this was a "wonder if I can" thing... and a new one is just $50.00 ...
    I have 3 dashes, this door will get wired to the back of one and then hung from a nail... might even make another one...
    .
    Also if I were to modify a '40 dash to sell, the buyer's 1st impression often sells the thing...
    having the hole filled really helps.
    When he tries to explain the purchase to the wife the more complete looking the dash the better.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
    Stogy likes this.
  5. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Cut another [fill the hole] blank, sanded all the edges that will be folded over to help stop them from creasing when rolled....
    also made the hems narrower this time... headed to a buddy's to slip roll them...
    '40 ford glovebox door "skin" ; DSCN2303.JPG

    .gonna try and bend a '38-'39 standard glovebox door "skin" only... DSCN2306.JPG DSCN2305.JPG
     
  6. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 7,031

    manyolcars

    excellent.This kind of work is what makes the hamb great
     
  7. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    got them rolled.
    the new '40 ; note the shorter hems, it bent easier. DSCN2310.JPG DSCN2309.JPG

    .the '38-'39 was tougher to roll, relatively flat except for the upper and lower edges... ; DSCN2308.JPG
    .
    Used a 1/4"-20 x 2" screw, screwed 3 nuts onto it, the last one a flanged or navy nut, flange toward the skin, sat it against the edge of a stock g/b door, the 3 nuts are the same hight to the hinge contact surface, welded the 3 of them together, screwed them to the hinge with the navy nut's flange against the door's skin...carefully duct taped the door right where it needs to be, welded the navy nuts to the skin, removed the tape, bingo, and cheap... wish I had an easy fix / swap for the hinge but '40 to '48 cars is the best I can do... DSCN2443.JPG DSCN2441.JPG DSCN2441.JPG DSCN2428.JPG
    ashtray, right side knob stud showing... DSCN2440.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2018
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  8. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    stogy...
    I measured the distance between the '39 skin and hinge contact surface on a stock door, about 3/8"...
    [2] 1/4"-20 nuts are close enough, ran a screw through them, welded them together, measured, marked and welded down onto the skin's hem... gonna use Velcro latch... DSCN2351.JPG DSCN2350.JPG DSCN2348.JPG
    DSCN2347.JPG DSCN2356.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
    Stogy and TagMan like this.
  9. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Can't seem to find the '39 ashtray/lighter panels... I had bent some channels to use as overdoor header wood when using longer tudor doors on a '30 coupe... they were 1.75" wide... I tipped one on edge and it slides into the ashtray panel slot, not tight, but not bad... gonna trim the sides so I can shrink them for a little bow top to bottom... pix Tuesday... could be 1/8" wider... DSCN2358.JPG DSCN2357.JPG
    Even though not perfect, with key, light switches in one, fan and heater switches in the other they should break up the background and should be ok...
     
  10. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    '39 ashtray block offs... first try... may just work... DSCN2359.JPG
     
    Stogy likes this.
  11. photo 2.JPG photo 2.JPG HA! This makes me feel good, I did the same thing with my missing glove box door for my Model A dash. (39 ford dash) I even attached the hinge the same way.
     
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  12. On mine, I did not need a latch, the spring on the hinge holds the door shut.
     
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    My '38 dash was a cabbie or woodie, dash tapers down on the ends...
    Cut out a blank, marked it, broke the edges, hems, hammered them flat...
    welded a 2" long piece of 9/16" shaft to a new roofing hammer... makes a handy tool for a tight bend near the edges... I bent up this cabbie glovebox with the new hammer and by clamping the very edge in my vice and gently leaning on the door to add arch...
    ... did not use the slip roller...stack of nuts welded to the door skin, screwed the lid to the hinge, fair enough...
    ... DSCN2367.JPG edges sanded,
    DSCN2365.JPG
    I may cut out the speaker grill, ashtray and lighter panels on a '39 closed car and make a large insert rather than straighten the s/g teeth, make 2 ashtray / lighter panels and have all the gaps be even I will make another g/b door the total size, and weld it in ... DSCN2369.JPG DSCN2416.JPG
    [2] mid '30's garish cut and welded along the lower edge...
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 9, 2018
    Stogy likes this.
  14. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Cut out the '39 speaker grill, hemmed, hammer and hand bent the center panel...
    propped it up... mikie likes it. DSCN2410.JPG DSCN2413.JPG DSCN2405.JPG
    DSCN2404.JPG
    kind of looks like a Packard or some other orphan dash...
     

    Attached Files:

  15. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 5,469

    19Fordy
    Member

    Instead of a latch, use small magnets.
     
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  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    A little too lazy to make all the seams and edges have even gaps, I cut, hemmed, bent and hammered a panel just bigger than the lighter, ashtray and speaker grill... ashtray knob for the g/b door, 5 switches in a bezel in place of the radio and a half standard, half deluxe instrument cluster to come... DSCN2420.JPG
     
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  17. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I duct taped the panel where it fit best, z bent and tacked 2 tabs that will pinch the lower edge...
    ran a screw, flat washer and nut through both stock upper tabs, welded the flat washers to the panel...
    trimmed a flat washer and welded it to the upper dash, ran a screw, flat washer and nut through the welded washer, welded the inner washer to the panel ... the panel is removable... DSCN2421.JPG
    .before ;
    39 dash in a.JPG
    .after ;
    DSCN2420.JPG
     
    Stogy likes this.
  18. Looks good "Smoothed Over" , from not usable to pretty cool looking rig.
     
  19. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 1,666

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Feb's sun has started to throw a little more heat our way, time for me to get back to working on my coupe...
    the coupester's parts will go back upstairs till after I get the '30 on the road... see you then...
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2018
    Stogy likes this.

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