Projects Olds Rocket 324 in a 32 Ford; "trying to finish it thread"..

Maybe my luck is changing; I did not wait for help this morning.. I slipped a long sleeve leather welding glove over the trans tail, and rolled the car forward...and it went right in with no damage. (trans shift cover removed, of course )

It looks better in there, than on the floor all apart. Hope it stays in there.

Yes, one more valve cover to polish and paint. I'm tired out..

And I forgot to say why it slid in so good; the middle pic in post 145 from yesterday shows wide angled feet for the trans bell mounts. Those actually worked great, as when the motor starts to go in, those feet catch on the lower flanges of the center X. So the whole deal slides in like a drawer, and it can't "go too far" to dent the firewall, it stops as the tapers jamb together. Self aligning from side to side,, as well. At least I got one thing right

 

NICE!

I like the way you did the gas pedal too. I still have mine mounted in the stock firewall holes and I think it might be a slight problem when I go to time the motor.

 

Frank, I saw those pictures and all I could think was "Man, that looks sweet!" Congratulations. It's looking great.

 

Frank IT LOOKS AWSOME!! Man you should be doing the charlie chaplin dance I think i paint my firewall... Maybe same color as the rims? Go man go looks great cnt wait to see it and hear it! I wish i knew how to post videos

 

That is a narrowed and cut 40 Ford firewall linkage from a doodlebug I parted out. Same donor for my dash in this car.

Actually I sat in my chair next to the woodstove. I am beat. But I did rebuild the Grafitti style dual master, then tried the clutch slave set up. It works slick so far; I left the trans cover off so I could use a bar on the input gear and then see when the clutch disengaged/engaged. It seems perfect.

Yea, paint the firewall; it's OK with the elders "up there" I did not recall seeing white firewalls around here back then, so I almost went with black as that's what I do recall. he.he, White hides good..I did not want to block it out.... it's a hot rod you know..


..oh, and if this motor survives break-in, my son will try to get a friend to do a video/audio of mine. I hope the cam is not too hot; we tried our best to measure it all...borderline on overlap angles. 471 lift with 1.5's.

Break in oil??? what's best, and that I can find without mail order??

 

Find a place that sells valvoline use there VR-1 oil it has the zinc etc still in it But check the label to be sure i see more and more companys taking it out so read the label. Or just by the oil you can get and use the ZDDP or comp cams additive i have both if it helps oh and a fan and some other stuff You can get it most places Also you can get specific BR oil (break IN) Brad penn,Joe Gibbs,and royal purple all make oil with zinc in it now in semi and synthetic just so you know I know that you wont be using that but just a little info. UMM the best is the joe gibbs BR IMO or regular oil with the comp-cams additive

 

Napa seems to carry amzoil here. I think that would work but check the label if you find it your local napa store.

 

Thanks Walt, a friend said Amsoil also, but I did get the Valvoline like Dave said, and a bottle of Zddp-plus...or is it Dzzp 50 dollar oil change and I already had the filter

I've decided to finish all the stuff I need for the first drive, before I "light the candles" . I want to fire it, and back this catankerous bitch outside

Short list now;
starter
gen & belt
headers
rad
mech fuel pump
...and finish the front brakes . i used a block-off fitting to the rear brakes for now.

Just now finished the front spring redo, ride height etc. Driveshaft and under car work is done; trans oil is in as well as steering box oil. Dam, the steering feels so much better after fixing the factory screw-up, and the 37 Buick trans feels sweet shifting. I sat in the car for a few minutes is that ok? ...I know, get going..

 

I gotta move to Connecticut. Unbelievable...

 

Frank Amsoil would have worked i forgot about it.... and its kinda pricey too I like it just hard to get here no parts stores carry it just some private dealers Maybe i should start carrying it....

Frank your doing great I`m am really glad to see you getting so much done! You may be beat me to the first drive I am going to upload some more pics tonight on my thread maybe you can see more of my mess...

 

Looks awesome.

 

Frank have you seeen pumpmans cabroilet ???

 

Wow! That is one good looking engine bay!

 

It almost wasn't for long ...my Pratt/Whitney buddy talked me into silicone brake fluid...with me protesting. Lucky I did listen to him, as I made a mess when testing the hyd clutch. I had a mirror set up to see the slave working while I worked the pedal...but the M/C cover was MIA, and the fluid burped back up. Ooops. It's fine, but it would have been a disaster


Dave, I will look up Pumpmans car


I was waiting for the brake lathe to make the last slow finish cut on the drum and decided to do the king pins now. Well the reamer is a tick under due to wear, so I am hand honing the last.0005

And I did get one side done, but the kit had 4 very thin shims to take up wear between the spindle and axle. My driver side has more wear than all 4 shims could fix. I used to be a VW aircooled mech, so I knew I had NOS king/link pins with shims in the barn...I hate looking in the barn.... but right when I gave up looking.. I found them. One VW shim and one "real" shim did the trick.

Maybe Monday...go for a ride.. like to sneak it down the freaking road...but don't dare.

 

Look in Hamb deuce club thread by 3wlarry its on front page now

 

Long day; finished; new kingpins, wheel cyls, hoses, cut the drums, repack, new tie rod ends. Then opened the closest bleeder to the MC, then slow pumps till fluid comes out, close it, then the other....and perfect hard pedal at the top. I went with the later 40s 1-3/8" front cyls.

Also restacked the front spring, it was sitting on steel block on the I beam, as I only had 4 leaves in for temporary setup.

Mostly all small easy stuff for the morning...so maybe...

Pics of 2 different styles of king bushings. New kit had steel backed Cleavite with better grease travel grooves, the other plain brass on is from a 40'-50s aftermarket kit.

Some guys were having troubles with reamers: This reamer has a "rough cut-undersize" tip, then the main finish cutter more towards the top.

The best way to use these, is to leave one old bushing in, while you go down through the old one, to rough cut the new one.

Now, don't do the finish on the first one; put the other new one in, and go down though the first one, to rough the 2nd one. Now you have aligned both to each-other, and now you can do the finish on each, from opposite ends.

 

It runs...


cam sounds nice. Working on getting a video made.

 

Video or it didnt happen!

Thats Great! One step closer!

 

Waiting for a volunteer to do the video...and it will be driving around, too.

All that's left to make it drivable is that the rear end is only tacked to the 35/36 trailing arm mounting plates. If I boot it, they will break and the back of the car will drop, wreck the fenders, etc.

I need to set the final shackle angle, but can't do that till I put in the new shackle bushings. So, maybe I'll just strap it for now, something like a u-bolt to keep it from dropping...or just do it right, if I feel up to it in the AM.

 

I have no idea how to link a video, maybe it will work.

I waited for Buster to show up to help with the cam break-in, but he was too late. I had some heat issues, and broke some rust loose in the block or rad. More sh-- to clean up

He had a camera but never tried a video before....

If the vid works...he lied, I was not grinning; I am too dam tired and I need to go sit by the woodstove. Note how I closed the door lightly at the end.

Exhaust is next, It's too loud in person.




http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d105/dailydrivervw/?action=view&current=100_3579.mp4


If it does not work, help me out

 

The link works just fine!

It sounds sweet Frank! Gets me pumped up for my own Rocket.

 

thanks for testing the link. I could see it, but I am signed in to that account.




I really think I overdid it...I'm so burned out, I honestly don't give a s... about driving it around. Maybe I'll feel better in the AM. Can't tell much about the motor as it is too loud, but it starts quick, steers nice, clutch is nice, brakes work.. oh, and the ride seems nice over ruts/bumps...


...and, I found out this morning that my trusty 35+ year old Miller 35S mig is broken. I bought it used over 30 yrs ago. So I could not fix the rear axle brackets, I bolted chains up and over..

 

Sounds good Frank!

 

Considering what a big question mark that motor was, it sounds pretty damn good. No
loud knocks or smoke; you may have lucked out!

Congrats, now take some R & R for a couple of days. Thrashin' takes the fun out of it.....

 

This motor never smoked out the exh or breather...but I can't hear much now. I did have a full package of coarse steel wool packed in each lake, but I took off the c-clamps to let them blow out during cam break-in, when it was heating up a bit...now i can't hear enough to make me sure it is ok.

Not only did the steel wool turn blue, so did the C-clamp threads

 

Oh man does that sound good - Congrats!

 

Oh yea!

 

Congrats Frank I havent learned how to upload the video i took when i first started my car, you beat me to it! Car sounds good,are you running a T-stat? Go take it easy for a bit maybe another visit over to pease I wil give you my order.. When it`s not fun it`s time to stop and take a break and i think your there you been busting your arse bud. Sit by the stove and admire all you have done! `

 

sounds good Frank!

 

Right on Frank. Thats gotta make you happy.