There's quite some progress at the moment on my roadster, which i will share as it goes but not chronolocigal at the moment, have fun... Reflectors on the back, are Porsche 356 tail reflector on homemade brackets to match with the 1948 Kaiser taillights
That was how it looked when i bought it, a good base, but needet much work in the way it was build and technically..
Replacing the teardrop lights with... who knows ? NOS ,ncables where so old, that they fell apart when i only looked at them, replaced them with new 2 mm2 cables and soldered new piggy-connectors. made all new seals between glass and also body- mounts to seal them nicley to the body. Toying arround with a Pilot Ray light that moves with the steering, bought latley from a old chap which had it stuffed away along with other junk.. Also replacing the cracked windshield.
Heads off, Intake off, replaced the lifters since the threads disappeard, which is why i had loose lifters.... not amused. bought this Ragtop, fits any roadster with 2" choped Windshield, will swap with sid chavers tan bobtop, so this one will go on sale.
Made new rumbleseat box and converted the trunklid hinges for rumbleseat, adapted the 3 window catch.. found an old boat benchseat, repaired and dyed a new color ( was dirty white )
Thanks guy's This spring, we had to let go ouer garage- n'family-dog. Quigley, was his name, he allways loved a ride with us on the end of the day.... still missing something.... maybe next spring we will find ouer third bernese mountain dog, we'll see...
Last week, we picked up the chassis of my brothers 1934 Chevy knee-action, to fit my the unique swiss Convertible body made by W. Blaser Burgdorf ( Switzerland ) bought individually for other projects, but research brought to light, that the convertible body was build for this chassis and was on the 1935 Geneva Motorshow.
Late Christmas ..... Edelbrock super Dual intake and new 97, with new aircleaner... straitght into the garage and getting it fitted...... my son got hoocked up pretty much..
Girls wanna have fun too... boy after that blast she's only talking about Hot Rod's, my sister complains !
relocated the handbrake, made new bracket, to have it close to the seat base, since the leaver is just shy of the firewall and natural beertank is preventing me to use it.
Bought a decent pair of E&J's from a french old chap stuffed away long time a go..... car gone long time ago too..
These "Duce lights " are the perfect match-taillights for the E&J's .... they're very hard to come by... not myne ...
Now catched up with last week, when i started to take my original 32' steeringbox out, to replace with my F-100 steering box. I had to enlarge the hole for the pitmanshaft. Switched the frontdamper mounting ( reversed Left to right ) to get space for the new lightstands, next to the radiatorshell. Needet to heat and hammer a ding in the left rear header to clear the F-100 box and replaced the top screw on the back with a flat imbus to get more space between Box and header. Still able to adjust the box, happy with that. The pitman arm is a tad to short, for fitting a strenghtening plate on the outside of the rail, as i intended, so what... shortend the F-100 Pitman arm to 32' box dimension to keep steering-geometrie.
View attachment 4235453 Made a indicator-light for the highbeam on my leath which fits nicley in the hole in the column-drop, just need to fit the blue glass made of heatrestistant transparent blue foil several thin layers to adjust brightness.
Made up a new accessorie panel with all switches that i need, from left to right : High/lowbeam, wiper, gauge-lights, light main switch, starter switch, in the columndrop i installed the High/low controllight, describe in the previous post.
The pipe is old ( 1928 ) copper brake tubing streightned in a vice, stick in a steele rod (longer than the copper tube ) into the tube for cutting, or the copper will colapse as you cut, since it's clambed in a vice. Then i used a handsaw along ... needs patients and elbow grease. Probably you'd be better off to use a tiny flex with a thin blade. Thats what i would use next time and do it in one piece. When you do the bending do it in steps because each time the tube is bend it hardens, so do it in steps and aneele it between, where you want the next bend. I soldered them on with lowtemp ( 610°C ) real silver solder at the back just to hold on, this way, one can combine steele with copper, in fact almost any combination of materials. I filled the tube with paint from a injection syringe to prevent rust, in case it get's wet ( have no top ) and painted the rest. I left the tubing raw so it will get patina with time. mybe i will use my chemicals to speed things up with patina.
The mountingflange of the panel, with the weld on nuts, are laying on top of the dash-lip and is screwd on from below, so the sunken scrweheads are the only thing you see from the bottom, the two screws you can see from the front are those that holds the old bracket with the 12v socket for navigation system and have nothing to do with the accessorie panel. I'll change that later....
Heres a up date, what i have ben working on . Normaly the shockmounts are where the rails are connected with the crossmember under the radiator and rather rigid fitted together. I descovered that since i changed the shockmounts left to right, the ride became vage and rather soft since the spreaderbar is the only thing that kept the chassis from flexing. The spreaderbar was of flimsey repro type and bend anyway so it was of no use. Therefore i build a better spreaderbar and braced it in the chassis snugley. The following pics are while working . The tube was only sanded, tinned, sanded again and clear 2K paint. The later is in tree pieces and screwd together with hi-tensile screws. In the middle tube are the weld-in plates with the threaded part, in the curved part is the plate without thread and the screws are feeded in through the large hole in the bend section, whis is quite invisible when mounted. I wanted to close the chassis rails for safety and appeariance but couldn't weld them shut because i would not be able to remove the new spreaderbar. I ran out of time so the railcaps are a little raw sort of fitting, I'll redo them in winter. The chassis is no more flexing and the shocks are working propperly again.
Geeeze lost track. My apologies. Been working my ass off. Looks like you been doing the same. You've been making some kool upgrades. Well done. Couple pics of my ride. About 50 miles on it just testing. Maybe a little farther tomorrow. Ps...and this is why I don't ride anymore...don't trust those coming at me. Cheers. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
