I am planning a build for my 27 tall t coupe. I have been slowly gagthering parts for the last couple years. Go a 32A frame for free and a 37 ford rear end! I have been torn with a choice for a motor. I had purchsed a 1953 stude tow truck that has a 58-59 371 olds rocket motor and trans. I was going to use that motor but I might leave it in and drive it (make a cool shop truck)! so the other day i was thinking a nailhead buick would be cool! I asked my grandpa how well the 324 in his 56 parts buick ran? He said it ran ok but he thought it should be rebuilt. Having so many car projects I cant afford to rebuild it right now. Meanwhile I keep thinking in the back of my head that there is a complete 283 chevy at my dads! everyone uses a sbc though, I like to be different. well my grandperents are old drag racers from around 1958-59 to 1963-64 era. They raced a 1941 ford pickup with a 283 chevy, t-10 4 speed and a 9 inch. they still have the truck, that is now restored and still have the old speed parts! A fenton 3x2 intake manifold, only one i,ve seen!! A set of power pack heads with the crower dual valve springs and matching crower solid cam!! And a set of original 283 vette dome pistons and original mickey thompson dome pistons!! He even has the coil he was running! My plan is to use my 283 with his heads, cam, coil and intake! It should stand out what is you opinion?
As much as I don't like Ford's with SBC's in them, it will fit MUCH better than either of the other choices. I'd use it if it is between only those choices.
personally i am not a fan of sbc in older ford either..but the cheapness of these are understandable compared to building a flathead...or other vintage motor..i personally think that 283 would be rad though in there..to me 283's and 327's are an awesome option..more nostalgic than just throwin' a 350 in there...plus can't beat gettin it from your grandpa...
1958-1986 Small Block No one will be able to tell what your running unless you really want to run an early 265 or 283 with staggered bolt heads.
Puttin' a used cam in a different block is a crapshoot at best. The chances that the cam bore and lifter bores are in the exact same relationship from one block to another is akin to the same chances you have of hittin' the lottery. Best you can do is use new lifters from a well-known grinder, not some re-boxed low-buck offshore junk. It's the lifters that lay down first, then take the cam lobes out, so use the best lifters money can buy. CompCams makes some armored lifters that have gotten good reviews. Remove the Crower springs and replace them with some old, worn out springs for the cam/lifter break-in, then replace them with the Crower springs after a few hundred easy miles. Use shop air to hold the valves on their seats while you change springs with a compressor designed for the purpose. No shop air? Feed a length of clothesline rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and jam the rope up against the valves with the piston. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/753771/1...g+Compressor&gclid=CJ3kprOiupoCFRAhDQodEkKkbw
Run the 283 with your grandpas speed parts.It would make him feel good and you would have a cool story to go with your engine.