local yard got this shear in. They saved it for me cause they know I like junk like this. I’m gonna take a chance on it. The only damage is on one of the handles that locks the holder down. its a 42 inch shear but needing to know the thickness. The handles and blade is locked down by the previous owner to keep kids safe. I have a 52 inch pexto( mid 50s) now. But this one sure does look cool
The gap is what makes it special, allowing you to shear material as long as you want, provided the strip on the back side will fit in the gap. Gap shears aren't as stout as standard ones, because of the flex in the gap portion. I would bet it would handle at least 18 ga. I have the same model Squirrel pictured, with hydraulics .
Thanks guys. Also looks like you could rotate the material and shear inside corners. I didn’t think about shearing longer pieces than 42’’ Thought about selling one but both may be handy. Should be worth $175 then
Grab it before someone else does. Here are some before & after pics of mine. It will do up to 16ga sheet metal. Mine is a 42" one.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING PEXTO FOOT SHEARS 1. This shear has been tested to maximum capacity at factory. Do not exceed rated capacity shown on nameplate. 2. To set up Shear, remove from skids and place on a level foundation. NOTE: When Bed is level, it rests evenly on tile Leg Ledges at all four corners. If necessary, shim legs away from floor until Bed does rest evenly on the Leg Ledges. 3. Always keep Blades sharp. Wipe the Upper Blade with an oily rag frequently to help to keep the edges sharp. 4. Lubrication should be maintained between Cross head and Hold down Bearing surfaces and also between Cross head and Leg Bearing surfaces. Oil holes are provided in the Treadle to permit lubrication to the Hinge Pin. 5. Front, Back, Side and Bevel Gauges are provided for use as desired. Side and Back Gauges are graduated and adjustment is provided to keep graduations aligned with the Blade cutting edges. 6. Two leverage holes are provided on the 137, 142, and 152 Shears in each Treadle Lever Arm for the lower Connecting Link Pins. The Treadle as shipped will give ample leverage for cutting soft steel within the rated capacity of the machine, but greater leverage can be obtained for cutting maximum capacity stock by moving the lower Connecting Link Pins to the holes nearest the Hinge Pins. 7. It is advisable to have an extra pair of Blades available for use when the original Blades are removed to be sharpened. Always send the Blades for regrinding to the factory where necessary special machines for regrinding Blades are used. 8. To adjust Shear after Blades have been changed, back off the 4 Bolts that secure the Bed to the Legs a half turn. Bed adjusting screws move Bed to position Lower Blade in relation to upper Blade. 9. Place a sheet of heavy paper between the Blades for the full length and depress Treadle slowly. If Shear does not cut paper the full length, move Bed inward by turning Bed Adjusting Screws equally on each end a quarter turn at a time. If Shear cuts paper on ends but not in center, turn Cross head Adjustment Nut, in center of Tie-Rod, clockwise 1/8 turn at a time. If Shear cuts paper in center but not on ends, reverse direction of turn on Cross head Adjustment Nut. NOTE: This adjustment is always made at the factory and should not be necessary on a new Shear. 10. After adjusting for proper Blade clearance, tighten Bed to Leg Bolts securely before cutting stock. 11. When ordering replacement parts from the factory, be sure to give Machine Number, Serial Letter and Part Name.
Thanks. Just called my dad, he’s a retired machinist. We will adjust after I get it clean and all parts moving freely.
I put it on the rollers cause it weighs around 1000#. With limited space in my garage, I can roll it over in a corner and pull it out when I need to use it. It still isn't that easy to move even on the rollers. I went to sportsman warehouse & bought a cover for a side x side for it. Keeps most of the shop dust off of it. All the attaching pieces I had powder coated & only the main frame is painted.
Same here. I have a small shop I need as much stuff as possible on rollers. Also like the idea of being able to load on a trailer and take to other shops. I’m a mobile fab guy
They are very heavy, but I am able to pick it up if I need to with my cherry picker. I now have a enclosed car hauler & can roll it up the ramp. It works the same on the rollers, just a little higher to step on the "pedal" to make your cut. It is worth the extra $ for premium rollers.
Anthony, There is a company in Kent Washington, Benoit Sheetmetal 1-800-829-8142 that was really helpful with parts. They sell used & restored sheet metal working equipment & had used & new parts that were missing for mine. I was working with Tom there at the time a couple of years ago. I believe that he was a manager or shop foreman there. Bill
Degreased and oiled it up Tested with a 3 inch wide piece of 16 gauge. Made a nice clean cut. Blade looks clean. Doesn’t appear to have been abused. The worst damage found is part of a casting for the foot pedal.
A lot of these old shears had a cutting-edge on both sides of the blade. There could be a brand new blade edge by flipping the blade upside down. I hand stoned mine, and run a tight .004 clearance all the way across the blade . Mine is a Pexto 52”, and I cut 4’ 16 gauge with it.
Rich is correct. you should have 8 different edges to work with before it needs sharpening. That was a heck of a deal you got on it.
My wife was wondering what the heck I drug up this time. My 52 needs some adjustment, it doesn’t cut well in the center. I think I will try to adjust and repair both at the same time. I don’t think I will keep the 52 once I get this older one dialed in.
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