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Hot Rods Old fiberglass T roadster body to get my project off the ground?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Nosetime, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. Hello and greeting to the board. Forgive me for my sins, but I bought a 1930 Model A rolling chassis last month with a long term build plan in mind. On my 17th year of child support and private school, so budget concerns. But, a local hot rod guy had this roller I just had to buy....turns out I got it running and i have a very good engine, super nice frame and full running gear. My plan was to slowly go through all the original running gear and get a roadster body for the end of the rainbow build. Today, my next door neighbor rolled up with what appears to be a very high quality 1960's produced T-roadster body in fiberglass. Not what I want at the end of the rainbow, but it's here in my driveway! I have no illusions of faking a great car, but it gives me a lot of motivation! I had to buy it and think I can sell it at a profit if, and when I ever get to buy a real roadster body. I'm going to do a totally original banger to start. I have a lot of fiberglass and wood working experience...built surfboards and furniture, restored a few boats...so I am good with that hands on ability. So, now I want to ask for any advice or get slammed for a temporary means to get a car on the road? I will post some pics asap
     

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  2. Working with what you can afford right now is better than wishing you had a hot rod...go for it, man!
     
  3. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,951

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Seems to me that the "Hot Rod Gods" want you to build this. Go ahead and do it! I am rebuilding an old car of mine that was a "T-Bucket" and I wanted a Touring body this time. I haven't been able to find a reasonable steel body at this time, so I'm going with a fiberglass one. The important thing is to get the car back on the road, Later on, I hope I can find a suitable steel body, but if I can't? So what!

    BTW, it's a good idea to give your general location in your profile (just the state if you're kinda paranoid). There are a lot of guys out there that may be close and will be able to help you with parts, advice, etc. Just a suggestion.
     
    Max Gearhead likes this.
  4. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    The only sin is giving a rats ass about what others think. That shit cracks me up. As far as advice, search the threads here. There are some great T roadster builds going on.
     
    brEad, INVISIBLEKID, H380 and 4 others like this.

  5. Yes, I think i'm going to go that route, thanks!
     
  6. Thanks, I did not notice that! I am going forward without reservation now!
     
  7.  
  8. Thanks man, that's what i needs to hear!
     
    brEad likes this.
  9. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,951

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With that location, there's got to be LOTS of assistance available to you.
     
  10. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Why temporary? What is the matter with a T roadster body on a Model A frame? Norm Grabowski did it 60 years ago and was happy, a lot of hot rods started with the same parts.

    Quickest easiest and cheapest might be a 30s style gow job using the parts you have now. As time goes on you may find deals on speed parts for the A engine

    [​IMG]

    Or maybe a track roadster would suit you better

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
    brEad, ClarkH and kidcampbell71 like this.
  11. Late T roadster bodies go well on an A frame.

    Just make sure, whatever you do, the top of the radiator shell is NOT higher than the cowl. That would be a sin. (And committed a little too frequently. :rolleyes:)
     
    cptn60, brEad, RICH B and 6 others like this.
  12. Nothing wrong with glass. At least it won't rust! Have fun. The way I see it, you've already got a real roadster body.
     
  13. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,352

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I think glass, in its own way, is traditional. If anyone slams you just tell them to send the cash and you'll get a steel body. The track roadster would be my choice down the road.
     
  14. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,484

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    DO IT!! You'll have more fun quicker if you do it now. And keep us updated!
     
  15. That's a great start. Build it with what you now have and don't look back.
    I've built one using a glass body and it's a "real" car. Steel can be way too expensive for most folks who otherwise might make the hot rod adventure....
    Those who make glass bodies get a special THANK YOU. They make the hobby possible for the "average" citizen.
    Those who may smirk likely don't have one anyway....................

    Keep us posted................
     
  16. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,436

    A Boner
    Member

    Nothing wrong with a fiberglass body.....especially if you add a few little details to make it look like a steel one. A mint steel body is great, but a nice fiberglass body is probably better than a steel/bondo body, especially if the bondo is deep and wide spread. Keep on looking for a nice original body as you build this one. You will probably finish it way before you find a nice steel one, then you can use the newly found steel body to build hot rod #2.
     
  17. the only mistake you can make is not posting enough photos to keep us updated with the build......
    jus sayin...
     
    indestructableforce and brEad like this.
  18. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,215

    48fordnut
    Member Emeritus

    Mine is not traditional but I enjoy it.
     
  19. Some much thanks to everyone, But I have an urgent question! Body is in great shape but it's history is unknown, I think the whole bottom of to was trimmed off about 6"? Door is only 17" from the bottom of body to top of door, it also does not have the complete door bottom with a reveal under it, if I'm making sense. I have a refundable deposit on it because it just did not look right. I am on the fence here as I know how much work it would take to add 6" around the whole thing, I hope i'm wrong here. I have 21" from floor to back of cockpit. Most of the dimensions are close to speedway catalogs 27 t Roadster, but mine is low. It really looks wicked sitting on there, but I have no seat to mock up and get a feel for it. Also, my steering wheel is 12" above the cowl? If anyone can help me with info on height from floor to door top I would appreciate it. I don't want to pass on this if its doable. Regards, greg
     
  20. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Greg...I still have my 'glass '27 body from Dick Williams ('Poly-Form', formerly in Santa Cruz, CA)
    Body is strict to all dimensions, (I measured it against my steel gennie roadster)
    Body on level surface, bottom of body at drivers door front to top sill of door: 21".
    Bottom of body to rear top of 'catwalk' (rear of cockpit, highest point at side) 23".
    If these are your measurements, it is correct. If not, you can get some fiberglass mat (the thick stuff like 'carpet', not the thin mat you cover surfboards with) This stuff is like 1/4" thick, and dark gray in color.
    It can be added to the bottom all around, even 'folded' under to form a 'shelf' (like a subframe) that you can strengthen with light metal or wood. Also good to back up the new seam with Luan plywood, or some light sheet metal (old computer skin works nice, cuts easily with shears)
    'Glass can be worked to 'fit' like it's laid up in a mold: Just get some thin (1/8") Luan plywood, long enough to cover from the firewall to the rear of the front door, overlap it at the top 5" or so, following the body's contour. Coat it with 'shrink wrap', then wax, so the new 'glass patch won't stick to your new 'mold'. New 'glass mat, soaked in resin and fitted, can be worked to fit flush with the outer skin. A second layer will possibly be in order, and the resin is of the 'Bonding' type, 'finishing' resin later...but you know all that...Just add and then back up with light metal 'patch', 4" wide...this will be under the upholstery, so it will be strong and 'out of sight'. The outer 'mold' will come off easily, and can be used again.
    IF you strengthen fiberglass with metal, you must coat bare metal with a film of Bondo for the 'glass mat to adhere to. "Tiger Hair" brand is best, available here in CA.
    Your Surfboard background very helpful, Grasshopper.

    I finished paying my evil ex wife $52K in support 3 years ago. YAY!!! Back support, mind you. Youngest son was 20. LOL Downside of CA. for sure.
    Budget stuff was necessary, so I bought the Poli Form 'glass '27 body, and a pair of ASC repro '32 rails. Made one slick '27 highboy...
    That body fits a Model A frame like a glove.
    Remove the steering box and mast/steering wheel, line up the back wheelwell with back tire, center it. Go from there...Steering will have to be slotted at the 2 holes in frame, letting the mast come down. It can also be shortened, easy stuff.
    Start with some pics. We'll go along with ya.
    Talk to ya later... Any questions, just ask.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
    X38 likes this.
  21. I'm pretty sure this car (owned by @Equipped28) is glass and it kicks ass! It's all in how you build it! image.jpeg
     
    slv63 and kidcampbell71 like this.
  22. Wow, thanks Mike Atwater, shoot that is doable, if necessary. I would really like to touch base with you if you would be ok with that. I can PM you, thanks Greg
     
  23. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Like my Dad used to say.Do the best ya can with what ya got.Best to ya,and please keep us updated as you can.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
    brEad likes this.
  24. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,436

    A Boner
    Member

    image.jpeg ^^^^ I agree, this one is kick ass!

    If you end up adding to the body height, I would make it 1" or 2" taller than stock. Do that plus set the body on top of the frame (no channel), and enjoy the extra room. Every inch, in any direction is more help than you can imagine for a hot rod interior. Hope the body is inexpensive enough.....seeing all the extra work you will have to do!
     
    brEad likes this.
  25. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    If the body has been modified or cut off at the bottom its value is much reduced. It is up to you if it is worth the effort to fix it. On a budget, if you can negotiate a low enough price it could be worth the extra work. But there is no sense paying full price for it when you could just buy a new one.
     
  26. I'd build it with the glass body, A running gear and juice brakes and drive the livin shit out of it with out a care of what the others think. Not all of the "traditional" style hot rods appealed to EVERYONE so just go with whatcha got and be happy. Can't please everyone. At least the body is old glass, that helps.
     
    Iceberg460 and brEad like this.
  27. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,436

    A Boner
    Member

    Sort of like starting with an old low buck real steel Henry body.....replace the bottom 6" of the body, then build it into a hot rod.
     
    X38 likes this.
  28. Well, I had to pass on the body it was cut too much to be a worthwhile investment. Thanks to all for the info.
     

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