The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by NealinCA, Feb 2, 2014.
LOADS of interest from here, love the whole approach and your vision.
Thats the way uh huh uh huh I like it, uh huh uh huh...
Craftsmanship of your caliber gets respect in any forum.
Awesome thread! Would you mind showing a little more info on your technique for heating the rivets (how hot, etc..), how you set them without burning yourself or tools?
Can't wait to see the rolling chassis!
Suggestion for riveting:
We all know that drilling a hole with a regular drill bit in thin material rarely results in a round hole (usually triangular). Drill the rivet hole 1/32 or 1/64 smaller than the desired size, then ream to size. This will yield a round, accurately sized hole.
Solid reamers can be bought in sets or individually, in 1/64 increments, or a thou or two over or undersize, straight or spiral flute. It's worth having common sizes on hand for press fitting bushings, etc. Any local industrial supplier should be able to get them if they don't stock them. Places like KBC Tools or Little Machine Shop might be cheaper.
1- Neal, there will always be considerable interest in your threads here.
2- This is a good source for rivets: http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/
Hot riveting brings back memories. used to work in Johnstown Pa ,Bethlehem Steel Rail Car Dept..
Nice, great work and very interesting. Thanks
great job on the frame! like the way it looks unmolested....Dave
I love the car and the fenders. It would be a shame to ditch them. Great work, I'm jealous of your talent.
Very nice work. I reckon a tech on 'How To Hot Rivet Just Like Henry Ford' wouldn't go astray.
Thanks for the riveting info, Neal. This thread is "riveting"!
I did that to the ceiling fan in the shop.
I am just learning myself, so I am sure there are a lot more experienced riveters out there...
Here are my 2 cents. First, tight fitting rivets are very important. It is best to weld up all the holes in the crossmember and rails, and then grind flush both sides. Position crossmember in frame and drill new holes. I then bolted everything tight with 5/16" bolts. I would remove one bolt at a time and replace with a rivet. We would hold the head tight against the frame with the bucking bar, heat the rivet orange hot with a torch, then hit the end with the air hammer. If fit in a close tolerance hole, the shank of the rivet will swell, holding the rivet tight, then you can form a head and pull everything tight with rivet set in the air hammer.
If the rivet is loose in the hole, you will just hammer it back and forth in the hole and it will not ever set. Ask me how I know...
As far as keeping from getting burned, leather welding gloves seem to do the trick.
For more info, search hot riveting on you-tube, there are quite a few videos. Many with fancier tools than I have available, but still the same principle. My favorite is from the footage of the guys building the Empire State Building...watching the guys throw red hot rivets from the forge to a guy on the end of a beam catching it in a bucket, then putting it in a hole with tongs and hammering away.
Great looking mordoor any updates
Read this post twice now, really like your work Neal. Any updates?
The project is on hold for a bit. Between a full time job, kids involved in sports and 4-H projects, and me building steering boxes for others, it's hard to carve out time for my own stuff. I hope to get a batch of steering boxes done in the next couple of weeks, and then get back on this one. I will post updates when I do.
BTW, Jimmy White hooked me up on using 312 SS TIG rod to weld the flanges on. It works great. I also had some 2-bolt weld-on steering boxes made up for putting an F-1 box in a Model A...
looks good Neal, but then your stuff always does.
looking forward to seeing the sedan done. I need to get back into the one sitting dormant in my shed, just wiring and exhaust to do. But something else always crops up.
Here's a little update on the old Boudakian Bros Fordor project.
Started working on the 49 8BA engine I bought last year. It was running when I pulled it, so I just cleaned it up and adjusted the valves (it had a set of Johnsen adjustables in it).
The old Edelbrock heads had been milled a few times, so I had to open up the combustion chamber slightly for piston clearance. I used my fancy hand held flycutter...
Got the heads on and torqued, along with new water pumps and an old Mallory dual point...
Had to redrill the flywheel, for an early style pressure plate...
Transfer punched the holes through a pressure plate...
Drilled, tapped and counter bored them on the mill...
I converted a 57-64 Ford 12V generator for the 49-53 engine...
And used an old aftermarket "conversion" pulley to run a 33-34 fan...
I also scored an old chrome oil filter housing...
and got a pair of rebuilt 97's back from Max...
I then moved back onto the chassis. I built a battery box to hold a small, sealed race car battery...
It bolts to the back of the K-member, somewhat mirroring the master cylinder bracket...
Got a torque tube seal from Danny (hotrodpro) at Bruce's Rod Shop. This was for the early B style 32 rearend that we just put together with a set of 3.54 gears. The seal kit was very nice and fit great. Hopefully it will keep this car from being a dripper...
I started putting the chassis together and got front brake lines run...
Now on to rear suspension...and then drop the engine and trans in. More to come in the next few weeks.
Always something interesting when Neal posts. Thanks.
I dig your selection of early Ford and other parts. So cool.
Very cool build!
How did you measure the diameter of the clutch housing ?
With only "three tabs" you cant measure across.....?
I set the trammel points on an early flywheel I had, then transferred the bolt circle over to the late flywheel.
Didn't we talk about you reproing some of those conversion fan pulleys? There's got to be at least a dozen of us out here that could use some.
Hi thank you for the update and great tech as all your posts are very informative
Did a transmission rebuild with my brother...
Then started bolting the chassis together today
You may be surprised how much interest you have created. It's a hotrod, with or without fenders and with or without a flathead. Four doors are IN now, like they should have always been.
We are not worthy!
Every time I see your posts, Neal, it makes me realise what a hack I am.
You work epitomises the word "meticulous"
Keep up the good work, hopefully one day our paths will cross again.
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