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OK...help me pick a welder and other tools

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Joatha, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. Joatha
    Joined: Jul 6, 2008
    Posts: 184

    Joatha
    Member

    I'm looking to get my hands on a welder so that I can...well....weld. I've never welded anything in my life and I'm planning on using it to do work on my Model A project plus I have some custom work I may be doing on my 69 Barracuda. So, I am trying to figure out what I need to get.

    Here's the info that I can provide:
    1. I have 220 available as well as 110 20A (or even 30A). 220 is in only one corner of my garage so I'd have to get some heft extension cords (RV style) to go across the garage. I also COULD wire a 220 in the other corner as well.
    2. I plan to use a welder primarily to do some modification and assembly of the frame for the Model A. I won't build the entire frame as I don't have the skills for that just yet. But, I will add motor/tranny mounts and some of the other suspension set up items.
    3. I plan to build some motor mounts on my 69 Barracuda.
    4. I have some body work to do on my Model A (small area behind the driver's door) and my Barracuda (quarters). I hate/suck at body work so I MIGHT farm this out. I can't, however, decide if I hate it because I suck at it or if I suck at it because I hate it. Know what I mean?
    5. I will have to put floor pans and the like in the Model A (and the Barracuda). That means some sheet metal cutting and welding. I also suspect I might need to put a bead on the floorpan for strength.
    6. My budget is somewhat limited for the short term. I have $600-700 that I can throw at it now. I am NOT opposed to getting a good welder now and then saving for other things I'll need later. I won't be getting to the Model A project until probably winter (maybe spring). But, I kind of wanted to start figuring out how to weld.
    7. I doubt I will do much welding after these projects. But, who knows? I might like it and start working on more projects.
    8. I've not done ANY metalworking/fabrication to speak of. I've always done the motor, suspension, and engine work on my projects in the past. All of these have been my Barracuda's or other cars that didn't require a lot of that kind of work.

    So, my questions are:
    1. What welder should I be looking at? I would prefer to stick with Miller or Lincoln as parts/repair will be good. I noticed a Lincoln WeldPak 100 locally on craigslist with the gas attachment. Is that a good option for a newbie? Seems to handle up to 1/4 in stock.
    2. What should I use to cut the sheet metal? I have a large air compressor already.
    3. What about hammers and dollies? Never used one. I know I'll need to use something like that on my Model A fenders.
    3. What about cutting thicker metal? I know a band saw will work. But, can I just put a metal blade on my sawzall and then grind it to get it exactly right. I have a bench grinder as well as a hand held grinder (but not sure what attachments I should use on the hand held).
    4. Spray guns for putting primer on? I have a pair of old Devilbiss' but I don't know what model or if they are any good.
    4. Anything else I should be looking at?

    Basically, I'm a newbie at this fabrication and body work stuff and not sure what I should be getting. Here's what I do have:

    1. 5HP 2stage compressor (60 gallon)
    2. Pneumatic cut-off wheel.
    3. Pneumatic sanders (DA, line)
    4. Grinders (bench and hand-held - basic stone wheels)
    5. 220V or 110V (up to 30A)
    6. Old Devilbiss spray gun (2 of them)
    7. Pneumatic impact wrenches, ratches, and hammers
    8. All of the typical hand tools I have ever needed to build motors, transmissions, suspensions, and the like.
    9. Blasting cabinet

    Let's hear your thoughts. Thanks!

    I figure some of the other newbies to this stuff might also benefit from this question. If I'm out of line, just smack me across the head and tell me.
     
  2. Dan1955
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 346

    Dan1955
    Member

    As far as welders go, I would buy as big as I coulg afford. The Miller 180 is a good welder but you could get buy with a smaller one. I don't think I would go for the small 100.
     
  3. Greezy
    Joined: May 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,440

    Greezy
    Member

    There is nothing wrong with the little Lincoln welder to start off with. Ive built 2 cars with mine. I do wish it had a little better heat control to it. Get some pnuematic nibblers or shears, and an assortment of snips, left, right, and straight cuts. You can get a resonably priced set of body hammers and dollies.

    But like said above if you can spring for a biggr welder go for it. My budget at the time I could afford the little Lincoln.
     
  4. PsychoBandito
    Joined: Oct 9, 2006
    Posts: 216

    PsychoBandito
    Member
    from Montreal

    The Millermatics are great machines. Just set the metal thickness and go.
     

  5. 1959Ford
    Joined: May 15, 2007
    Posts: 51

    1959Ford
    Member

    To start learning with, you will want a MIG. Both Miller and Lincoln make quality welders. I own both (though I prefer Miller). A good choice would be either a Miller 140 or Lincoln 135 Plus. I would not recommend going any smaller than a 135/140. If you can afford it, stepping up to the Miller 180 would be the better option.

    As you progress in skill and project complexities, you will need a larger MIG. You will likely find yourself wanting a TIG as well.
     
  6. LUX BLUE
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,407

    LUX BLUE
    Alliance Vendor
    from AUSTIN,TX

    I,Too prefer the "Blue cadillac" over the "red cadillac" (meaning I prefer the Miller.)
     
  7. 39 Ford
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,558

    39 Ford
    Member

    Step up to a Lincoln 180 they are about $629 at Loew's, 220 V 20 Amp. You will not be sorry.
     
  8. gumbydammit
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 20

    gumbydammit
    Member

    Go for the Miller 140 or 180 with the autoset. IMO, it is a great welder for a beginner. Some of the others will say the auto set isn't needed, but it's nice to have it so you get used to what heat settings work for certain jobs.

    BTW, I just nabbed a used Lincoln 175T ( 220 v) WITH a hobart auto darkening helmet off craigslist for just under $300. There are bargains out there if you are ready to grab 'em.
     
  9. Goztrider
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 3,066

    Goztrider
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    I just bought a Lincoln 175HD off of the dreaded Ebay site... got it for $451 delivered to my door brand new still sealed in the original box.

    Say what you want about ebay, but almost $235 in savings is a big deal to me.
     
  10. Goto the nearest comunity collage take a welding class. It will be the best money you will spend. aftar the class buy your welder. Some schools get you a discount on your welder
    I have a miller mig and a miller tig. I purchased the tig after the collage class.
     
  11. Joatha
    Joined: Jul 6, 2008
    Posts: 184

    Joatha
    Member

    Anyone know any places in the Marietta, GA area that offer welding classes?
     
  12. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    get a lincoln mig for about 500. get a vidio tape and some scrap metal to practic on
     
  13. Also check out the highschool for welding classes It's usualy ADULT education
     
  14. David Totten
    Joined: Nov 21, 2005
    Posts: 248

    David Totten
    Member

    I would agree with the welding classes since you have done no welding. Trying to teach yourself how do to something you know nothing about is just frustrating . With classes you will be shown what to expect and will be able to practice what you are tought. as with everything practice donest make perfect. perfect practice makes perfect.
     
  15. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Your cutting needs can mostly be done electrically, but having air would be great. Here's the basic necessities-

    * Sawzall is the all purpose metal cutting god. Get one with variable speed on a knob or dial, not the trigger. (craftsmens are this way) You're gonna be sawing for minutes on end and it's much easier to have good control when you can grab tight without trigger control concerns. Spray lube = 5X increase in blade life.

    *4" or 4.5" angle grinder is the second item to buy. Along with a good assortment of cutting and grinding discs. They're so useful you'll soon want 2, one loaded as a cutter and the other a grinder. Harbor freights are loud but just as durable as those which cost 4X.

    *angle die grinder, probably air powered for power and light weight. Great for using 2" finishing discs and die grinder burrs for light shaping.

    *electric die grinder. Doesn't work for the finishing discs because of how it's held, but is an absolute weapon with either a burr or a spindle mounted 3" X 3/16 grinding disc. A must-have for precision removal and shaping, and tremendously useful as a mechanics tool for removing stubborn fasteners.

    *Safety- obviously tight fitting safety glasses, loose won't suffice around grinding. Headset style muffs are really the way to go when grinding. Rawhide gauntlet style gloves up to mid forearm are great dual purpose welding/grinding and last forever if you keep em dry. Be cautious of wearing badly frayed jeans when welding, you'll be on fire before you know it.

    Don't kid yourself about the tools being a "one time use" unless you get outta cars. The ability to do basic metal joining opens a whole new world of projects and opportunities. good luck
     
  16. Joatha
    Joined: Jul 6, 2008
    Posts: 184

    Joatha
    Member

    Got one - a Dewalt I've had for about 7-8 years. So I should be fine there. I don't remember off the top of my head if its adjustable but I think it is. I'll add some spray lube to the arsenal and get some good blades.


    Got one of these as well. What all discs should I get? I do have a cutting wheel (pneumatic) so I should be alright with just one.

    I'll have to get these 2. Don't have any die grinders.

    I like my vision as is so I already have some good glasses. I need to add the big gloves, though.

    Yeah, I know. You are likely right. But, just in case..... :)

    Thanks!
     
  17. rc.grimes
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 697

    rc.grimes
    Member
    from Edmond, OK

    Since I'm a welder and machinist by trade I have odd views on this. You need to have a welder that adapts to whatever you will work on so a large unit like a Miller 180/210 is great. You can turn it down for light gauge and up for heavy. You don't want an extension cord so you can always switch to a spool gun which will give you a 30ft lead. Can't afford a new one? Shop used. Don't skimp cause it will bite you later when you need the versatility.
    Cutting is another subject. The fire wrench is the best thing in the world. I have plasmas at home but most of the time I use a cordless dewalt angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I even take it to the junkyard with me.
     
  18. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,440

    Squablow
    Member

    I have a Lincoln SP100, the old version of the WeldPak 100. It is excellent for welding sheetmetal/bodywork stuff and you can do frame work with it if you're careful about prep (which you should be if you're welding a frame)

    Remember that metal prep is way more important than how big of a welder you have. Make sure things fit tightly, bevel your joints, ect.

    When you're budgeting for your welder, be sure to make some of that budget for a good auto-darkinging helmet. Makes welding 100x easier. I prefer a Speedglas, you can get used ones for around $100. If you buy a new welder that comes with a cheapie helmet or a face shield, throw that thing away.
     
  19. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    One other thing, a good metal fabrication table, hopefully with a vise. Flat enough to use as a reference for one end of a square. Strong enough you can clamp tubing to it and sawzall/grind. Clean/smooth enough to make reference marks on. Not flammable so parts can be at least tacked while still clamped to the table. Heavy enough to resist big hammer blows to workpieces.

    And clamps, lots of em. I have probably three 12" bite C clamps, 8 intermediate clamps, and a dozen 1" clamps. And have had a simple project use them all, at once.

    good luck
     
  20. art.resi
    Joined: Oct 15, 2006
    Posts: 214

    art.resi
    Member

    Full face shields both clear and # 6 dark for torch work.
    Saves your eyes and head area and you can wear glasses
    under them. HOLD THOSE GRINDERS TIGHT- I put a nice
    1 inch grove in my right fore knuckle with a 4 1/2" cut
    off wheel yesterday when it kicked back. Swollen 2xs
    today.
     
  21. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    I have a Lincoln Weldpack 100 with fluxcore -- I will convert it to MIG but wonder if it's really sufficient for frame work. The manual recomends using it in MIG mode only up to 14 gage metal. .... Can you really use it for 3/16 metal and get a good penetration weld?
     
  22. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    Welding,
    all it takes is practice the more you do the better you get, MIG is easier to learn then TIG. The quality of Lincoln internally is better than Miller, put them side by side and look inside.





    Ago
     
  23. 972toolmaker
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 216

    972toolmaker
    Member
    from Garland Tx

    Martin Hammers for sheet metal work Medium price and will last a lifetime
     

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