Okay guys... when four-thirteen came over to help me pull the engine in my dodge, we found this in my oil pan. This is a cow magnet that I put in there when I rebuilt the engine in June. Never realized I would collect so much metal! And since I assume my crank was out of round when I rebuilt it (some of the jouranls look fine, but they're not within spec)... guess what the really bad journals looked like! ~Melissa
The interesting thing about the whole mess is that towards the front of the engine, the crank looks ok, out of spec in the round, but ok. Towards the back of the engine is where the two really bad journals are. Could this be a result of some plugged oil passages somewhere???
A 'cow magnet' is a magnet in a rod shape, about 1 1/2 inches long, rounded on both ends. It's purpose is to sit in a cow's stomach and collect any metal bits that the cow eats. That way, the cow does not injure itself excreting those metal bits. Yes, the cow swallows the magnet. No, AFAIK, no one retrieves the magnet, you use NEW ones. Cosmo
Mel, I graduated from Stout in 1971. All I can remember is the bittert cold and driving my 40 Ford on the frozen lake. Is that where you're studying. Also what kind of engine was that magnet in. jim in FL.
Mel, did you have them torqued down properly? Did you have the bearings installed correctly? Just some ideas for you to consider . later plmczy
Mel, if your journals are rough, but not out of round you may be able to polish them - a machine shop deal, not too expensive - and put some .001 or .002 over bearings in it. You'd have to look up the bearing clearance specs for your engine, but .0015 - .003 is the usual. I may have the specs you want if you let me know what engine you're dealing with. The .001 and .002 over standard bearings are a fairly common item obtainable at your genuine parts house. If you don't have inside and outside micrometers to shoot the bearing clearances, use Plasti-Gage in the clearance range you want. I think the one required for your engine is in the green envelope. Used correctly it's probably more accurate than using a micrometer.
take a closer look at that second picture C9,you can see the ridge between one side of the journal and the other.BTW Mel,OUCH!!!
[ QUOTE ] take a closer look at that second picture C9,you can see the ridge between one side of the journal and the other [/ QUOTE ] I see it Yorgy. It shouldn't make too much difference if the rest of the journal polishes up ok. Granted, machine shops like a perfect bearing surface, but all a depressed area like the deep score on the journal means is, the rest of the bearings load will be increased by a small percentage. Just depends on how much perfection Mel wants - and the more the better in most cases - or if she's just trying to get by. And getting by would entail a reasonable bit of driving keeping in mind what kind of shape or lack thereof the crank is in. It's surprising what these engines will carry us through at times.
Every journal on that crank is out of round... I can't afford to take it into a shop right now, so I'm looking at whatever I can do to get the car back on the road under a budget. I may just pick up a cheap runner and go with it until I break it or can afford to fix the crank. I torqued everything in that motor down to the specs in my manual so I doubt that was the problem... and seeing as I didn't have the tools to check the crank the first time around, I probably should've had it machined a long time ago. 19Fordy- yeah, I'm at Stout for apparel design. Were you in the Stout Auto Club before you graduated? If you were, I gotta get some info to you... Oh and the motor is a 326 poly wide block... original to that car. ~Melissa
the shop next door has a poly motor "rebuilt" for 400 bucks... could be gotten much cheaper... but shipping would be a bit expensive unless you could get a hamb relay going.
I already have about that much into this one, so I know I'd like to keep her going, sooner or later. But what size what that motor they're selling?
Mel, That crank looks like scrap to me. You've got a .020" ridge there, between journals, so you gotta regrind to at least that to clean it up. You're looking at minimum a 40 thou undergrind, no quick way around it. Could be a wrongly installed shell set, or a bit of rubbish picked up in one shell, as if it was oil flow both sides of that throw would be burned up. Paul
Agree with MM, I scrapped a crank that looked like that in December '02. Of course, that was a 289 windsor, so easier to replace.
This is why I really dig magnetic drain plugs. They let you know what's going on when you change your oil.
The rod caps all are stamped with numbers so I know I got them on the same way they came off... just match the numbers.
they dont know what the motor is, and I popped it open last night and its just a stocker, no rebuild. and full of junk... I also got the full story that they gave some guy in a van 40 bucks for it! sorry about that. I wish I could have been some help.
Is it a 360 dodge engine? If we had displacement... stroke... years they came in... we (hamb...) might be able to find you a replacement!
1959 Dodge Cornet 326 Poly Wide Block. One year only, one model only. Good luck finding parts. -Bugman Jeff
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