Got a pressurized Moroso unit, never used, in a trade. I may need a fitting or two, but I have some leftover line from another project. I think there's a hole above the oil filter area on my sbc. Seems like a great idea to run some oil through the motor before it's fired, especially after it sits for a while. Thinking about routing a choke type cable to run the lever. Anyone else use one? Anything I need to watch out for? Any better ideas of where to plumb it on a sbc?
back in the 70's and early 80's when i was involved with some SCCA racing , we had one on the car.... corvette with a 350 chevy. i can't remember where it was plumbed into
Started using them back in the 70's with my SS/IA Camaro and have been using them ever since. If you have the Moroso part number here is the place to go............ http://www.moroso.com/instructions.asp If not, you want to make sure you have at least 200psi braided steel line, and I'd recommend 400psi burst. Some people use an electric solenoid to active the pump when you turn the key, others use a manual handle, but depending on which you use I'd have a pressure gauge hooked to the accumulator so you can see it. You can take your pressure sensor on the block, put a tee on it and run the line from their to your accumulator. Make sure you have a solid mount for the accumulator because under pressure if not mounted solid, it will move! Good luck.
I use one on my BBC Anglia drag car to keep adequate oil pressure in the engine when I'm hard on the brakes at some of the shorter tracks I visit. Works... Kevin near Seallle
They are great to have if you ever get your motor out of camber, or it you are pulling lots of long hard G's at high R's. Most stay full until PSI drops below 30, then they hit the engine with another quart and a half or so to stave off damage. I wrecked an LS2 motor last fall in Indiana offroad racing. I would have saved the motor had I been running one. So they are cheap insurance.....and I and dumb because I still havent bought one. You want to sell that one?
I very strongly reccommend them if you have any sort of oil cooler or remote oil filter. A dry-bearing start is what wears engines the fastest. A long pathway in the oiling system will REQUIRE a pre oiler in order to make the crank last long. I made mine out of a couple fire extinguisher bottles and an electric solenoid valve. I wired it to the ignition switch so I didn't have to think about it. It filled my oil cooler passages and wet the bearings before I started cranking the engine. It worked automatically without my having to take deliberate action. You can easily double or triple the life of your engine that way.
Thanks guys. Don't really want to run it in with an oil cooler. Never thought of the pressure sending spot at the back of the manifold, but that's on the return side right? I'm going to do some digging and see about that hole above the filter boss. Will def use the best line I can get my hands on and mount it securely.
The Jalopy Journal
