The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Okiedoker, Nov 23, 2015.
This thread is making me and my kids laugh, they will use the ADD T shirt in their social media.
Glad you are enjoying it. Just some friendly banter between friends
Jeff's right,the guys that talk the most shit to each other are the guys who are good friends on here.
For example,Jeff is a very good friend of mine,we talk often about our Families,our jobs,how things are coming along at the machine shop with Jeff's frightening ginormous blower motor,and then,right outta the blue,I'll hit him with something like this:
Also,when I googled "Okie Doker Gasser",why did two pictures of my dogs,and a group photo of a bunch of midgets who may or may not have been gay (I'm not here to judge) show up in the search?
Have you been corrupting my dogs Jeff....???
Also,I think I should send out a warning to Big Jim:
Jeff has hired security not only for the event,but for himself personally.
You do NOT want Jeff's security force to have you in their crosshairs:
They received their deadly training here:
Watch your step Big Man.....Watch.Your.Step.
Other than (BRAND LOYALTY) all are like minded having fun.
They are the first to help with good tech. advice from (pretty smart people) no matter the brand.)
Whats really cool is that you get to meet and talk to them at the Meltdown event.
Kinda like going to the Big Show back in the days.
Norb and Salty are totally right.Its almost like being at an event in 65 or 66.
Best weekend of the entire year
A quick trip away from the trash talking - and a quick tech question for the blown and injected folks.
I have an opportunity to pick up an Enderle Bird injection unit - for cheap. And I mean cheap by Canadian dollar standards and not US funds (thank God)
My question is - is it too big for my application (Can it be too big ??) I am looking to run alcohol
6-71 making 9 - 11 lbs
8.14 - 1 compression - yes I know that's low for alcohol but I'm on a budget
.605/.598 roller cam
Track 1 heads
the tip in would suck due to the huge butterflies. a very long arm for the linkage would help slow down the tip in. that would make it easier to stage. the rpm has to come up to generate pressure in the pump. you dont want the rpm bouncing around trying to find the happy spot as the lights are coming down. a bird would look out of place on a nostalgic car. a bird on a 14-71 looks balanced. a bird on a 6-71 or 8-71 looks funny. the bird is too big. the ribbed bug would look better.
Laying laminate flooring with a 90 degree turn around a corner in a hallway this afternoon.
Never thought I would say this,but I'd rather be doing bodywork.lol
Don't mind me, just working on some "Area 51" Big Sockittoya 409 pistons going in some ole 1920's Hearse.
Damn that's purdy
Sure wish those were mine.
That made me laugh!
That was one of Jeff's shining moments right there.....There's not much you can come back with in that situation.
Rather than starting another thread, could someone here explain to me why my Hurst Competition Plus is having a hard time shifting from 2nd to 3rd? It shifts fine when you take it easy, and make sure to follow the H pattern fairly carefully. But, I'm not intending to shift this car like a puss. It's when you start unleashing your inner Ronnie Sox that the shit starts hitting the fan. When you go from 2nd to 3rd without trying to directly follow the H, the shifter crosses over the H and tries to push 3rd, leaving 2nd still engaged, then when you try and find 1st or 2nd you cannot find either because the linkage and shifter tab is in the foward, or second gear position. This requires you to go and push the second gear tab into the neutral position, then allowing you to grab 3rd or 4th.
Did you have the pin in the shifter when you adjusted it?
is the shifter worn out. if so hurst offers a steel bushing kit. don't use the plastic bushings. as salt flats said check the alignment of the shifter arms. i use a allen wrench of the proper size to check. thats what the notch in the bottom of the shifter is for. if you aren't sure how to do this pm me. if you don't have solid mounts or a engine plate get that changed. with the engine torqued over the clutch linkage gets bound up. i prefer a hydraulic throw out bearing. it eliminates all the flexing issues. some transmissions just shift poorly in stock form no matter what you do. slick shifting does wonders. pro shifting works best. lots of times guys point to the shifter and trans as the problem when its not. the proper clutch is of vital importance. i prefer a borg and beck three finger long ford roller assist pressure plate for many reasons. when shifting a hurst on the 2-3 don't follow a h-pattern. take up the slop in the shifter as the rpms come up then push the handle diagonally toward the glove box.
YES SCOTT, I'LL BE ONE THE LOOKOUT FOR JEFFRO's ROAMING BAND OF PREDATORY MISFITS! OR IS IT JEFFRO & THE 7 DWARFS?
I think a good majority of Jeff's posse, is a bit more"hulk smash", when its needed. I still like sparing with them, cause they would just slip in my crap chasing me if I got cross ways with one of them. They're all good people, and can dish out the bologna, as well as absorb it.
Your avatar, err umm
Is that a Hearse your leaning up against?
I could only be as lucky to be as good as the guy in the picture.
Lookey what I just found over on the "Drag Cars In Motion" thread.....
He's coming back this year loaded for bear.That Nailhead is gonna be a handful!
I'm not using the plastic bushings, I'm using the metal ones, they don't appear to be worn out either. The trans is put of the car right now, so I know it has nothing to do with clutch. I also have sethe the shifting arms with an Allen wrench. As you said, I would like to be able to shift 2-3 diagonally, but that's where the problem shows up, only if I follow the H does it want to shift correctly.
RIC, after you've drawn up a new piston design on the computer, can or has tech gotten to the point where you can then take a 3-D Printer & make a piston copy? Just wondered if you do that too?
Do you fill the detent holding the shifter levers in place
Maybe the the springs inside the shift cover are weak
Who is the guy in guy picture?
You might want to pull it apart to clean and see if the pin or plates are bagged out while your checking springs?
New grease will help a lot if its crusty.
If its out, try having someone turn the spline when you shift, ( allow gears to fall in place )
Last but not least, you gotta do your Eric arm exercise first.
I agree with tickety boo. Get the car in the air. Preferable a lift. Have some one inside the car shifting while you turn the drive shaft. Observe the linkage. I have had rods rubbing and hitting each other. I have had rods hit the case. Everything should move real smooth. Constantly check for a smooth neutral. A single turn on the adjuster can make a big differance. One thing i didnt mention before are you using the hurst clips to hold the rods to the levers. They do make a differance. And as mentioned before the shifter may need to come apart and cleaned. Hurst used to rebuild them im not sure if they still do. What kind of trans is it.
Check out this video.
I realize the Bird is bigger than the Bug and the smooth finish isn't period correct, but right now with the Cdn dollar sucking huge - things are getting expensive. A new ribbed Bug is $1,350 ish US (almost $2000 Cdn + taxes takes it to $2,200 Cdn) and that just for the hat and BV.
I can pick up this Bird along with BV, steel lines, shut off, bypass loop, fittings and lines etc etc (no pump) for $1,000 Cdn ($600 US) and no taxes or shipping. I would prefer a 4 port Hilborn or the ribbed Bug but sometimes you work with what's in front of you.
If someone out there has a Bug or a tall 4 Port and wants to trade - let's talk
We don't have one of those printers, but yes, you could do that.
Separate names with a comma.