The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Oct 1, 2022.
Happens to us all when were on crunch time. Keep us updated...
Well update on the forgotten banger... Rods and wrist pins are frozen, hence why it wouldnt turn, Pistons moved in the bores but couldn't break these free, thankfully they were at TDC and were able to be driven out once the caps were removed... Shame she is in such bad shape... But looks like the block is ok so there is that. This motor is just a tinker with motor, frozen and forgotten for many years. Plans are unknown right now, Id rather spend the money on the orig A motor from my 30 and have the inserted bearings cut in.
Crazy part is, I dont know why it was pulled, but everything shows no mechanical failure reason behind it but it was 100 over and there were no shims on the rods nor mains, so maybe she was knocking... Few Babbitt pics for you
Here they are out, the two laying over wrist pins are free and nice...
The two worst cyl, 1 and 4, both were at TDC...
Im guessing she was full of water at some point for this kind of rust up there.
And the bearings... This one looks like a cold pour...
Plus look at how thin they were poured...Insane...
Who knows what Ill do with it, may sell for a buildable core or keep it in stock to build later for myself...
Sure does. My Rpu is running "as is"
When I installed a vintage Riley 4-Port Head on our B Engine in our Speedster, I had a problem finding a suitable Water Pump. The Riley Pump needed to be rebuilt, so I looked for other options. I found an Electric Water Pump, that has a Electronic Controller that controls the Water Pump Flow Rate (& Electric Fan) based on Engine Water Temperature, not engine RPM.
I wrote an article which was published In the current Secrets of Speed Magazine. The article is attached for anyone interested.
yes!!!! Thank You!!!
View attachment 5544956
What to do when you need main caps
We had a grand time last weekend with the Velocity Invitational at Laguna Seca. The little Ford 4 banger could hold it's own with some of the best of them (except the two ERA's). Well driven it might of kept up; but I'm slowing down with age. You can watch the whole week end on YouTube
who is the gentleman in the bottom picture?
I recognize him, just cannot put a name to him.
Great story,video and car Greg!
This link no longer works -
Anyone got another??
Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
I have just read this over the last few days! Wow so much amazing content!
Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
please try https://archive.org/details/dli.ernet.17723
James Alder is the chap, talking to me & my wife. Jim drives his Jag 120 to & from the races. His home is in Reno, NV!
Thanks very much. I have started what I suspect is a long read!
Thanks for the recognition, I remember meeting James at Fontana speedway some years ago at a joint weekend with the SCCA. He had some good advise for Sean as a driver there.
Happy monthly banger, the last year for me has been involved in a belly button and liver transplant into a '72 Jeep wagoneer (ls1/4L60e) so I can have a fun road trip/trail rig/ tow rig). With that 99% done, and no money to spend...I found a thing. My friend on the East coast hauled it back, and I won't see it till spring. So, we can all commiserate over the low quality imagery and postulate on how deep I dug my hole.
fur biscuit : Someone had to say it : "That'll buff out"... LOL!!
Damn, thats a great find!!
Don't buff it out too much
Looks like a Faultless racing body to me! The Whippet radiator looks to be in good shape, and has Laurel front lowering brackets too. Nice find!!!
Like Kevin said, it looks like a Faultless body....I'm thinking with the flair on the cowl it's a Morton & Brett.
Kevin, don't think they are?
Do you know if anyone is still repopping the Laurel style?
My first inclination was Faultless, due to the flat spot behind the passenger compartment. But the cowl flare is much more Speedway or Morton & Brett.
Newbie banger owner here. I've got a basic question about the oil tube on the side of an A block. Does it flow a lot of oil from the side cover down to the lower edge of the block, or is it more of a vent?
I've got a marine front cover that has a side drive (probably for a bilge pump) which looks like it could adapt a rear-pointing distributor very easily. But that oil tube would probably be in the way. Maybe I could build a steel line or braided stainless hose that would fit tighter to the block, and then have room for the side distributor. Just need to know what the real function of that original tube is?
The model A engine was designed with gravity feed oil system, no real pressure. Oil from the oil pump was pumped up to the front of the valve chamber. There are dams or walls on the floor of the valve chamber to divert sufficient oil to gravity feed the front, centre and rear main bearings. Oil in the chamber also lubricated the valve lifters. As the engine in a stock model A is tilted with the front being higher then the read, the oil that was pumped to the front of the valve chamber eventually flowed to the rear of the valve chamber where it drains into the external drain tube, which then feeds the oil on to the dipper tray located in the oil pan. This oil then lubricates the connecting rod bearings via the dip and splash method. There are dipper trays under each connecting rod and as they fill they overflow and gravitate back from front to rear of the motor, feed oil for feeding all the con rod bearings. Once to the rear of the oil pan the oil overflows and returns to the bottom of the oil pan. So I would say that if you are running a stock oil system in your Model A engine then if you change the standard oil tube to a flexible line that the line should try and have an internal diameter close to or equal to the oil drain tube. Also the flexible line must run continuously lower from the valve cover to the inlet at the front of the block.
Bob has addressed the oil return line above, this is more to the distributor idea.
Typically, side drive assemblies run at crankshaft speed. You need to verify the gear that drives the aux accessories is the same diameter as the cam gear not the crank gear.
My auxiliary drive gear has the same tooth count as the crank gear (that's 50 IIRC). I have an aftermarket SBC distributor that I will attempt to grind the extra lobes from, and just plug the extra cap sockets.
I want to use a B pan so I can use a B trans case filled with later gears. Will the B pan still provide the proper tray for the rods to dip into? Do I need to move an A tray into the B pan?
Good catch fellas! My eyes were focused on the tail, and I completely missed the cowl flare
The close up pic of the lowering brackets reveals they are not Laurel, but perform the same task of pushing the axle out front and relocating the spring perch behind the axle
The B pan will need to be modified with a filler piece welded in at the point of sealing to the rear main cap. The B main cap is larger than the A so there is a significant gap that must be filled. There are also two additional holes in the B pan at the rear corners that should be drilled and tapped at the rear of the A block on the pan rail. Finally, there are two bolts in the A pan that flank the rear main in the rear bulkhead of the block. These should be filled with some cut off bolts installed with locktight and fitted flush with the pan rail. I slot them and run them below the surface of the pan rail and then fill with JB Weld and file flush.
The A dipper tray will be preferable to the B dipper tray as the B tray fits about 1/8" lower in the pan due to the larger rod journals in the B motor.
So should I cut out and replace the B tray with the A? I can make all the other mods you mention too.
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