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Technical ***October 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Happy All Hallows Eve**

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Oct 1, 2022.

  1. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,326

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    Happens to us all when were on crunch time. Keep us updated...
     
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  2. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,326

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    Well update on the forgotten banger... Rods and wrist pins are frozen, hence why it wouldnt turn, Pistons moved in the bores but couldn't break these free, thankfully they were at TDC and were able to be driven out once the caps were removed... Shame she is in such bad shape... But looks like the block is ok so there is that. This motor is just a tinker with motor, frozen and forgotten for many years. Plans are unknown right now, Id rather spend the money on the orig A motor from my 30 and have the inserted bearings cut in.

    Crazy part is, I dont know why it was pulled, but everything shows no mechanical failure reason behind it but it was 100 over and there were no shims on the rods nor mains, so maybe she was knocking... Few Babbitt pics for you

    Here they are out, the two laying over wrist pins are free and nice... banger3.jpg

    The two worst cyl, 1 and 4, both were at TDC...
    Im guessing she was full of water at some point for this kind of rust up there.

    banger4.jpg banger5.jpg

    And the bearings... This one looks like a cold pour...

    banger6.jpg
    Plus look at how thin they were poured...Insane...

    banger7.jpg

    Who knows what Ill do with it, may sell for a buildable core or keep it in stock to build later for myself...
     
  3. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,450

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Sure does. My Rpu is running "as is"
     
  4. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 649

    GuyW
    Member

    This one??
     

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  5. 29 Speedster
    Joined: Aug 2, 2011
    Posts: 197

    29 Speedster
    Member
    from Colorado

    83211121-0191-45E1-A786-DC6B4756FDE0.jpeg 8C99B3EA-11F1-4587-9D3A-86FB30E103E7.jpeg

    When I installed a vintage Riley 4-Port Head on our B Engine in our Speedster, I had a problem finding a suitable Water Pump. The Riley Pump needed to be rebuilt, so I looked for other options. I found an Electric Water Pump, that has a Electronic Controller that controls the Water Pump Flow Rate (& Electric Fan) based on Engine Water Temperature, not engine RPM.
    I wrote an article which was published In the current Secrets of Speed Magazine. The article is attached for anyone interested.
     

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    GuyW, burl, Dustyp489 and 6 others like this.
  6. Airborne34
    Joined: Dec 4, 2007
    Posts: 638

    Airborne34
    Member
    from Texas

    yes!!!! Thank You!!!
     
    GuyW likes this.
  7. burl, Dustyp489, Jet96 and 6 others like this.
  8. We had a grand time last weekend with the Velocity Invitational at Laguna Seca. The little Ford 4 banger could hold it's own with some of the best of them (except the two ERA's). Well driven it might of kept up; but I'm slowing down with age. You can watch the whole week end on YouTube
    Velocity.2022(8)jpg.jpg
    Velocity.2022(4)jpg.jpg
    Velocity.2022(7)jpg.jpg
     
  9. OD, John
    who is the gentleman in the bottom picture?
    I recognize him, just cannot put a name to him.

    tnx, J
     
  10. BILL LUPIANO
    Joined: Dec 19, 2015
    Posts: 288

    BILL LUPIANO
    BANNED
    from Canada

    Great story,video and car Greg!
     
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  11. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,450

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Midnight Rider likes this.
  12. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 478

    Jiminy
    Member

    please try https://archive.org/details/dli.ernet.17723
     
    Outback likes this.
  13. James Alder is the chap, talking to me & my wife. Jim drives his Jag 120 to & from the races. His home is in Reno, NV!
     
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  14. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,450

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

  15. John

    Thanks for the recognition, I remember meeting James at Fontana speedway some years ago at a joint weekend with the SCCA. He had some good advise for Sean as a driver there.

    John
     
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  16. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,837

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Happy monthly banger, the last year for me has been involved in a belly button and liver transplant into a '72 Jeep wagoneer (ls1/4L60e) so I can have a fun road trip/trail rig/ tow rig). With that 99% done, and no money to spend...I found a thing. My friend on the East coast hauled it back, and I won't see it till spring. So, we can all commiserate over the low quality imagery and postulate on how deep I dug my hole.
     

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  17. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,711

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    fur biscuit : Someone had to say it : "That'll buff out"... LOL!!
     
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  18. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,837

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Haha


     
  19. Damn, thats a great find!!
    Don't buff it out too much
    J
     
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  20. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 531

    Kevin Pharis

    Looks like a Faultless racing body to me! The Whippet radiator looks to be in good shape, and has Laurel front lowering brackets too. Nice find!!!
     
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  21. 25mercury
    Joined: Aug 14, 2010
    Posts: 106

    25mercury
    Member
    from California

    Like Kevin said, it looks like a Faultless body....I'm thinking with the flair on the cowl it's a Morton & Brett.
     
  22. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,837

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Kevin, don't think they are?

    Do you know if anyone is still repopping the Laurel style?
     

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  23. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,837

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My first inclination was Faultless, due to the flat spot behind the passenger compartment. But the cowl flare is much more Speedway or Morton & Brett.

     
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  24. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,620

    alchemy
    Member

    Newbie banger owner here. I've got a basic question about the oil tube on the side of an A block. Does it flow a lot of oil from the side cover down to the lower edge of the block, or is it more of a vent?

    I've got a marine front cover that has a side drive (probably for a bilge pump) which looks like it could adapt a rear-pointing distributor very easily. But that oil tube would probably be in the way. Maybe I could build a steel line or braided stainless hose that would fit tighter to the block, and then have room for the side distributor. Just need to know what the real function of that original tube is?
     
  25. 4bangerbob
    Joined: Jun 29, 2013
    Posts: 139

    4bangerbob
    Member
    from AB, Canada

    The model A engine was designed with gravity feed oil system, no real pressure. Oil from the oil pump was pumped up to the front of the valve chamber. There are dams or walls on the floor of the valve chamber to divert sufficient oil to gravity feed the front, centre and rear main bearings. Oil in the chamber also lubricated the valve lifters. As the engine in a stock model A is tilted with the front being higher then the read, the oil that was pumped to the front of the valve chamber eventually flowed to the rear of the valve chamber where it drains into the external drain tube, which then feeds the oil on to the dipper tray located in the oil pan. This oil then lubricates the connecting rod bearings via the dip and splash method. There are dipper trays under each connecting rod and as they fill they overflow and gravitate back from front to rear of the motor, feed oil for feeding all the con rod bearings. Once to the rear of the oil pan the oil overflows and returns to the bottom of the oil pan. So I would say that if you are running a stock oil system in your Model A engine then if you change the standard oil tube to a flexible line that the line should try and have an internal diameter close to or equal to the oil drain tube. Also the flexible line must run continuously lower from the valve cover to the inlet at the front of the block.
     
  26. Bob has addressed the oil return line above, this is more to the distributor idea.
    Typically, side drive assemblies run at crankshaft speed. You need to verify the gear that drives the aux accessories is the same diameter as the cam gear not the crank gear.
    John
     
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  27. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,620

    alchemy
    Member

    My auxiliary drive gear has the same tooth count as the crank gear (that's 50 IIRC). I have an aftermarket SBC distributor that I will attempt to grind the extra lobes from, and just plug the extra cap sockets.

    I want to use a B pan so I can use a B trans case filled with later gears. Will the B pan still provide the proper tray for the rods to dip into? Do I need to move an A tray into the B pan?
     
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  28. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 531

    Kevin Pharis

    Good catch fellas! My eyes were focused on the tail, and I completely missed the cowl flare

    The close up pic of the lowering brackets reveals they are not Laurel, but perform the same task of pushing the axle out front and relocating the spring perch behind the axle
     
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  29. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 185

    5280A2

    The B pan will need to be modified with a filler piece welded in at the point of sealing to the rear main cap. The B main cap is larger than the A so there is a significant gap that must be filled. There are also two additional holes in the B pan at the rear corners that should be drilled and tapped at the rear of the A block on the pan rail. Finally, there are two bolts in the A pan that flank the rear main in the rear bulkhead of the block. These should be filled with some cut off bolts installed with locktight and fitted flush with the pan rail. I slot them and run them below the surface of the pan rail and then fill with JB Weld and file flush.

    The A dipper tray will be preferable to the B dipper tray as the B tray fits about 1/8" lower in the pan due to the larger rod journals in the B motor.

    IMG_3347.JPG


    IMG_3469.JPG
    IMG_3473.JPG

    IMG_3411.JPG
     
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  30. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,620

    alchemy
    Member

    So should I cut out and replace the B tray with the A? I can make all the other mods you mention too.
     

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