The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Oct 1, 2018.
Repro OHV heads for As/Bs are $5k and up....
Finally got some parts in the mail. Ended up only paying $50 for the B pump!!
Is that a 98T inlet manifold?
I might have asked this before, but I don't think so. With the options of various combinations of transmissions and rearends available to use in my A, I keep struggling how involved I want the build to get and how much I really want to change. The help reach a final decision my question is, what is considered a reasonable/sensible/comfortable RPM to run an A engine for extended periods at cruise speed? I realize the answer "It depends", but for the sake of basis the engine would be mostly stock, assumed to be mechanically sound with a 5.2:1 CR "Police" style head, B carb, B distributor, perhaps a B grind cam. I'd like to see a cruise speed around 60 MPH for extended periods with slightly higher gusts possible. Maybe my engine, as described couldn't muster up enough power to even run 60 MPH......I don't know. Is 2400 RPM (as an example) for extended periods excessive or pushing my luck?
Were you asking me?
I have three different set ups.
Number 1 my 31 coupe stock 19" tires, B cam, 6:1 Snyders head, Mallory centrifugal single point, with a stock rebuilt trans and a stock 3.78 ring and pinion I would not want to drive this car 60 all day. It will do 50-52 all day though
Number 2 is a 31 pickup stock 19" tires Police head and a B cam stock ignition stock trans, and overdrive and 3.54 ring and pinion. This truck does 60 no problem because of the overdrive all day
Number 3 is my Speedster. 750 17" tires in the rear, I think they are like 32 inches tall. It had the motor that is in car 1 my coupe but with dual carbs and a Mallory Dual point and headers. This car has a T5 in it though it will do 70 all day but keep in mind its a very small car that weighs around 1500lbs. I love the T5 I don't use 5th much but having a second and third that are close together are very nice. Also it has a stock 3.78 ring and pinion
I don't like to rev any of them over 2500 RPM's. The speedster cruises at about 1900 RPMs at 70 MPH.
If I had to pick I would do the 5spd option again, The O/D in the truck is nice too
Hope this helps answer some of your questions
Tiny.....That's great information! Thank you. The variety of A's you have, with various modifications, rear gear ratios and transmissions, and what's "comfortable" with each of them in cruise gives me a lot to consider while (hopefully) deciding on my final build direction. I have such an assortment and combination of parts I've managed to overwhelm myself with choices.
Just out of curiosity, what speed do you feel a comfortable cruise would be with your pickup without going to overdrive. Having no idea of the overdrive ratio, with the 3.54 rear gear would it be good to 58 or 60 MPH in 3rd gear without going into overdrive, or would that start pushing it?
Thanks, Guess that is about the cost of a new head. The block and what is inside is a mystery, good or bad. Bob
'29 CCPU has a B block with babbit and an original CRAGER head. Running 16" wheels with 3:54 rear end and a T-5. 59 HP at the rear wheels.
'27 Zipper has an A block with inserts and a Brumfield super head. '39 transmission, 3:54 gears with Zephyer gears 60 HP at the rear wheels.
Both cars are comfortable at 60-65 MPH.
Retail "New Outta The Box"..Yes! But an old Iron used one can be very "Iffy"! I broke one old Iron, as you say, "Repop" trying to use it on a race engine. The #4 exhaust boss an keeper of same came apart..My engine machinist repaired it; but warned my not to run it. I sold it to a "Hotrodder" for the going market for such stuff: $2400! Caveat Emptor!
Calling all experts. Where do I connect my wire from my Model B distributor? I tried the negative side of the coil and it runs great, but wont turn off. Any ideas? Is there something else I need to do with wiring? My car is still is 6 volt positive ground.
is the power side run thru the key switch ?
With a "Stock" coil and distributor; yes all you need is a switch in the circuit. With different coils and distributor systems (from stock). you very well may need a Ballast Resistor!
For the distributor wiring, I ended up following what Henry had provided. Straight to the ignition switch as originally planned. To me, it just seems like a long way to go for the point signal to travel, but it’s worked that way for the last 90 years. It should work since the B distributor is just like the A distributor except it has centrifugal advance.
Took my engine out this morning. It's an early 1928 build date, which I'm assuming accounts for this flywheel/clutch set up? Anything I should know about this system? Can't find much on the internet. Thank you.
We'll, here's what I know so far, mostly thanks to some responses on my speedster thread. It's an early multiple disk clutch, sometimes called and AR clutch. Apparently abandoned pretty early in production beacuase oil from a leaking rear main could get in it and cause chatter . Mines been working fine, though, despite a leaking rear main.
The teeth would wear on the AR clutch, but just about every dirt track race car ran one 28-48. Bob
With good reason : After machining off the flywheel's excess metal those racer's had a functional clutch with low inertial losses, even if they did require a push or tow start
Plus the gain of real foot room! Bob
Denver Timing Association meeting this weekend. I had the only banger there but there were many other DTA members that had built and raced ford fours. Turbocharged, reverse cams, OHV of all types including a Cook that has some unique history. Check out the Ed Leslie built T. It ran a Frontenac in a yellow bodied T and I failed to get more pictures. These photos of photos are from an incredible set of photo albums spanning about 40 years.
The truck likes 50-55 without the O/D engaged
That "Fronty" crank and addition of two more mains is amazing genius! Wished I'd thought of that! It sure saves a lot compared to a five-main girdle!
Finished this one this summer
NEW ZEALAND : saw you had a lil shake . hope all is well there !!
Hey, quick question...
I’ve just got my 30 A banger on the road, and am running mechanical brakes with the cast iron drums, and flathead ted equalizer kit. Did pretty much everything myself including riveting on new pads, and turning them.
My question: I adjusted the brakes per Vern tardel’s book, but have found them less then confidence inspiring. The car slows to a stop with no ability to lock up the tires. If I adjust the brakes tighter they drag when just driving. Is this something that will change as the brakes wear in? Did I screw up the install (very possible)? How much should the brakes drag when not engaged?
Well, that was more than one, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
Johnny I am no help but that is a great looking coupe you have
I made a post years ago after I bent up the fuel lines, and have just been lurking ever since. I do read the meet every month.
Nitro, did you check to see if the shoes fit the drums completely? The shoes should also be centered. I have a slight drag on the rear and a little bit more on the front. I also use Flathead Teds kit and it will lock up no problem. Now are you running early Harley beehive lights on the rear? First time I seen that. Looks good.
when I had mechanicals with teds kit , I could slide tires at will . I had to grind off a little top & bottom of shoes (like arching) to get full contact . be sure all is in GOOD condition . if you fit the shoes to the drums , you can get them pretty tight without drag ………...
Yes, they are! Good eye. Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know how your brakes work, so I have a standard to aim for.
I think you’re both right. I “arched” the shoes using sand paper applied to the inside of the drum, and just rubbing the shoes against that. Must have done a piss poor job. Not to sound lazy, but will the shoes form to the drum over time if I just drove it as is? Just curious.
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