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Technical ***October 2018 Banger Meet - 4 Banger Ghostmobile***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    I did not build a cradle , I built 2 individual mount (as was in '55) . one for each side . by the time you tie the rear down , not much is needed for the front . yes the rest is correct . ………….. im just a DIY guy
     
    Old Dawg and lake_harley like this.
  2. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,181

    lake_harley
    Member

    Got it! Thanks.

    Lynn
     
  3. 64crump
    Joined: Oct 17, 2011
    Posts: 398

    64crump
    Member
    from Alta Loma

    The next So Cal FAST Murietta Hill Climb is coming the first Sunday of November, 4th. Open to all Model A, B, C, and T Four bangers. Timed trials up a 10th of a mile hill. Stock classes up to Speedsters. Spectator fee is only $2. Good day to get the car out for a drive and watch the guys run the hill, or bring your banger out and see what she can do.


    If you want to see some footage from a few years ago, click on the linke for the you tube video I made.

     
  4. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 640

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    I need some expert advice. 1928 Model A with stock head and internals. The symptoms were lots of oil smoke, especially in high vacuum situations, sooty, oily plugs, and an intermittent miss at any constant speed, accompanied by smoke. I pulled the head and found oil in every cylinder and pooled on the gasket mostly in the narrow sections between 1&2, 3&4. The gasket is a Felpro 7013. Question is, does the oil on the gasket indicate that it was leaking, or did it just settle there when I remove the head? No oil in the coolant, no oil milkshake. I had checked the head torque several times, it was fine. Block seems flat, at least when checked with a known straight edge, no daylight. The head shows a bit of daylight right in the center between 2&3. I have an old police head I want to put on, and it has the same low spot, don't know if that is my culprit. I'm planning on getting the police head flattened. Will this take care of my oil issue? Anything I'm missing? Here are some pictures. First, the gasket on the block, then the head, then the block after I carefully removed the gasket. What looks like a crack in that last picture isn't. There aren't any visible cracks in the block, obviously hasn't been magnafluxed or anything. Thank you all in advance.

    IMG_20181021_113104242_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20181021_113120548_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20181021_113406279_HDR.jpg
     
  5. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 640

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Wait a minute, that's dumb of me. Why would a Model A head even have oil in it? Damn my OHV past. So, where is that oil coming from? I had about 65# compression on every cylinder. Forgot to put that in the original post.
     
  6. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 552

    GuyW
    Member

    Where else but rings?
     
  7. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Are the intake ports oily too? Oil can come in past the valve guides too.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  8. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 640

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Rings were my first gues (well, after my misguided head gasket guess), but would there be clean oil pooled on top of all of the pistons if it was coming up through the rings? Seems like it would burn away each firing cycle? I did a wet and dry compression test, same results. Looks like they were both wet though, I just didn't realize it.
    The forward intake port is shiny, but no oil is pooled in it. Rear one is dry. Like I said, most of my experience is with OHV. If I had this issue on a modern engine, I would suspect valve seals first.
     
  9. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    how long has the motor set ? with good compression I would think valve guides . but also with the oil in cylinders , could be false reading on compression . if motor has set a long time , could be both ……….
     
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  10. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 640

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Hasn't sat at all. runs at least a couple of times a month for the last 2 years. before that, I have no idea.
     
  11. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

  12. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

  13. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,885

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    YUCK. Any idea as to the cause?
     
  14. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,628

    97
    Member

    Right foot depressed too far! for too long!:eek:
     
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  15. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,209

    RussTee
    Member

    Is anyone useing a mag on a street car or touring car? I have several and am wondering about trying one for a while.
     
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  16. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    MHO ……. I ran one for a short time . I did not like the lack of advance . lag doesn't do what an advance does . try it & see if it works for you . I went to FSI self advance & never looked back . "my car is a daily driver"
     
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  17. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,209

    RussTee
    Member

    It is not that I have too I have a FSI at the moment but have had some coil problems on hot days just wondered how a mag would handle the heat with the teardrop on behind
     
  18. MJW
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 418

    MJW
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NJ
    1. PA. NJ. local HAMBERS group

    I ran a Wico JEM 1509 at the race of gentleman in 2017 without a fan and it didn't seem to care. With the static advance, it ran real hot at idle.

    V4F is right. It ran great but is not for the street as it has a mechanical retard to start and then is static at 29 degrees. It was originally for stationary engines and Pietenpol airplanes and makes its hottest spark at 1750rpm which is peak hp for a banger but below red line. Great for drags and hill climbs.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Just took delivery of my new to me rebuilt model a engine from berts. Excited to get it home and uncrate it. Got insert bearings, the stipe cam, the bronze timing gear, and lightened fly wheel. Have a roof head at home to go on it. I wish i could find more info on doing a remote oil filter. Like what bulk head fittings work best and is there a best place to shoot the oil back in?
     
  20. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 552

    GuyW
    Member

    Junk yard: do you have Brierly's book and other literature?
     
  21. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    should have had berts set it up
     
  22. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,195

    johnneilson
    Member

    The ideal place to send the filtered oil back into the motor is into the oil galley feeding the bearings.
    If just dumping oil into the motor you defeat the purpose.
     
  23. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Whats the fun in that? I asked and they advised against full pressure a block for what i want. I didnt think there was much to it so i didnt ask them to set it up. I figured it was just a line jammed in a hole and some holes in the valve cover. And a line up to the head. Maybe im missing something. Im useing Yapps headers so i cant use the mikes a ford able kit.

    Let me go unload this thing a take a look at it, ill post a pick.
     
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  24. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    thumbnail_IMG_2116.jpg not very exciting. I think im gunna leave it wrapped up untill i get a few other things i need.
     
  25. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 469

    brjnelson
    Member

    If you have a B shoot the oil into the galley at the bottom of your cover.
    I have a un-pressurized A and the oil dumps right in through the side cover.
    It is a stroker and the crank could not be drilled for pressure.
    [​IMG]
    The end of the pump was brazed and turned to size, to force the oil out the fitting hole and that hole was drilled the next size larger, and plumbed to the filter, and then to the cover.
    Get Jim's book, it is a good read and full of info.
     
  26. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 469

    brjnelson
    Member

    [​IMG]
    here is one more old photo to show the entry point.
    I still have babbit and dippers on the con rods.
     
    Dannerr, barrnone50, ROCKER77 and 2 others like this.
  27. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Thats good info, Ive ordered the book just now. Mines an a block. I was more wondering where in the valve cover to put the oil back in. Surely it must come in with quite a bit of velocity.

    I like that set up. Is that a crager valve cover? I have one but wasnt sure i wanted to drill a bunch of holes in it.
     
  28. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Its a winfield! Anyway it looks like yours enters in between the valves. Im probably over thinking it.

    Im also wondering about another way to do it other than brazing the pump. Its been a while since ive done any brazing. Guess its just some bushings. Might not be so bad. Im sure i could drill the hole bigger with a wooden dowel in the oil pump hole and grease on the bit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2018
  29. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,569

    The37Kid
    Member

    There may be a B engine with a CRAGAR head up for sale locally. Modern reproduction head on a rebuilt lower end , was in a Great Race car. What are the ballpark numbers on something like that? I don't think it ran within the past 15 maybe 20 years. Bob
     
  30. Depending on a number of things about the block and cylinder head. Plus any manifolding and carbureation; I would think about $3,000 to start...
     

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