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Technical ***October 2018 Banger Meet - 4 Banger Ghostmobile***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,699

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    I like the short GAV adjuster in the rear carb. I also like the throttle linkage and choke linkage for the rear carb.


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  2. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 201

    JT1930
    Member


    Thank you. Secrets of speed linkage and manifold. Now only if it will run correctly.
     
  3. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 109

    blgitn
    Member

    20181004_181307.jpg 20181004_180718.jpg 20181004_180911.jpg 20181004_181307.jpg 20181004_180718.jpg 20181004_180911.jpg 20181004_181307.jpg 20181004_180718.jpg 20181004_180911.jpg 20181004_181307.jpg 20181004_180718.jpg 20181004_180911.jpg The speed nymph.
    I think the car she was on went on its side.
    It's non-magnetic, pretty sure it's brass.
    Would you heat it at the ankles or bend it straight cold?
    If heat, how much?
     
  4. Me too- but I’m a Danish square, don’t know, if that matters any?

    I’d heat, if brass or alu, with a heating gun, in a desperate attempt to keep the chrome... but I don’t know, if it ruins it.

    Keep ‘em kruzin!

    Dannerr
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  5. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,883

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pulled the banger from the 32 today to repair/replace the transmission that had a very angry second gear. Thought we would address the large oil leaks front and rear on the sump, man that oil took a long time to drain from the sump, nice and thick and gooey. Dropped the pan and noticed the rear cork seal somewhat deformed as in the last picture , ( apologies apparently take by our old friend Otto Focus) obviously half in and half out of the rear seal groove, done by some long forgotten owner. And I wondered why oil poured out so copiously whe we had it on the lift at a down hill angle. I know this wont cure all the leaks but surely it must stem the tide some what.
    I think we will put the cork seal in with contact adhesive so it stays put this time, ditto on the sump gaskets.
    B6176224-EE76-4A45-B91C-4410405BF30A.jpeg 59409C5D-C727-4CF9-9E73-3F64010FAFE1.jpeg CD68B24A-5037-43C7-B57D-7A59C89D1329.jpeg
     
  6. How well does that set up work? I have the manifold but thought the back carb. would be too close to the heat of the exhaust. I see you have wrapped the pipe.
     
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  7. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 201

    JT1930
    Member

    Mc. It’s not bad. I have to do some street tuning but it runs and idles fine. I think it won’t be a big deal when motor is on since you have the fan going and when moving air is going by.
     
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  8. I think my Sedan is in for the Wyoming Winter. Now it is time to get greasy in this banger world "new experience". This Summer was my first time driving a 4 banger A. My plan for this car is: new intake, Stomberg 97, First street distributor, 12v upgrade, juice brakes and a slight altitude adjustment. Wish me luck.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,699

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    There are dry and warmish days all winter long! You can drive it a few days before spring. Let me know if you need any help with the upgrades!
     
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  10. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    *** to many repeat pix ………………...
     
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  11. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 201

    JT1930
    Member

    ^^^^^^^ too*******

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Need idiot type help on a banger motor. My builder knows A's but not done any hot B motors. Model B diamond block with inserts and a counterbalanced crank, winfield grind Brierley cam. Valves and springs are from Piranios's- 1.7 intakes. What valve...lifter...other settings are different from an A. The cam says set intake at .010 and exhaust at .012. What am I missing?
     
  13. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 109

    blgitn
    Member

    Yeah; too many repeats, sorry. Not sure how I did that so I didn't know how to fix it.
     
  14. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,181

    lake_harley
    Member

    I'm getting the frame for my '31 sandblasted tomorrow and have a question about the engine mount/front crossmsmber. I'll be using the Model A engine, but warmed up a bit to hopefully the 50-55 HP range. The stock front crossmember engine mount hole is rather wallowed out and rather than doing a repair to use the stock front mount I have considered a B or what I'll call a "cradle" style mount instead of the single spring-cushioned A mount. I found this mount on the Berts website, but I would likely build something similar since I enjoy the fabrication work.

    A6030B-600x800.jpg

    Then I found this photo in an older HAMB post by "badshifter". It shows the nice modification of the front crossmember to use a mount similar to the one from Berts.

    IMG_3983.JPG

    I plan to use the stock Model A mounts at the bellhousing with the rubber pads between the mount, frame and outer plate. For the transmission I'll be using a RTS-170 3-speed + overdrive with open driveshaft. I have no transmission crossmember/mount planned at this point.

    Does what I've described seem like a viable setup, or is some part of it riddled with flawed thinking and planning?

    If I stay with the stock A mount, is there any issue with just welding in a large "washer" patch on the top of the crossmember to bring the hole back to the stock size? The hole is now an oval-shaped 3/4"+ size, and I would make a patch from 10 Ga. steel to go over it. What should the size of the hole in the crossmember for the center bolt of a Model A motor-mount be if it isn't worn and enlarged?

    I'll say thanks in advance for input.

    Lynn
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
  15. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,699

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    I built a cradle style mount using a model a mount and some plate. I got the rubber cushions from Bert’s. I am running a float a motor mount style rear mount. I am running a T-5 with a closed drive shaft conversion. I chose to run a bolt out cross member under the transmission. My frame is not a stock A either but here are a couple of pictures from when I assembled or two years ago. There are lots more pics in my build thread. There is a link in my signature. Hope that helps. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  16. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Make sure you use Model B type lifters with single lock adjusters. These have the largest foot that rides on the cam. I think the foot dia is 1 3/16" model A was @ 1". I also recommend you use an aluminum cam gear. Model B's used a slightly different oil pump. The B pump was factory changed for more volume.

    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
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  17. Who sells these adjustable B lifters?
    Bought A’s for my G28T...



    Keep ‘em kruzin!

    Dannerr
     
  18. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,181

    lake_harley
    Member

    Binger....Your engine/transmission mounts look great, and thanks for the reply and photos. In considering how to set up my A with the RTS-170 I searched a lot about the stock, almost solid A bellhousing mounts. Some on Fordbarn, and probably some here on the H.A.M.B. too, felt the stock A bellhousing mounts were structurally important on a stock A frame to provide somewhat a 4th crossmsmber. With your non-A and boxed frame that's probably not a consideration and with the float-a-motor rear mounts you have a fair amount of flexibility (good thing) even with front, mid, and transmission mounts.

    I'm concerned that if I did a cradle with rubber bushings on front, stock A mid-mounts and then added a transmission crossmember too I could get things too stiff and start cracking the bellhousing, transmission, etc. if/when the frame flexes. At the same time, I'm concerned that without support on the transmission tailshaft housing that I might have so much weight hanging off of the bellhousing that something could get over-stressed too. Kind of a damned if I do and damned if I don't dilemma! It's common, and it seems logical, that a 3-point engine/transmission mount is the most desirable, but I'm just not sure if 3-point or 4-point is the way to go in my situation. Going to the float-a-motor mid-mounts might be the best option for me too.

    Comments....suggestions?

    Thanks.

    Lynn
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2018
  19.  
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  20. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,699

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    I was concerned about the weight of the transmission too and that is why I decided to build that trans cross member. Plus there is no other cross members on the frame. I figured it needed one any way. I am not sure if it is necessary but I didn't want to run into trouble. I made it so it would unbolt and come out so its easy to work on. This cross member is solid and has no rubber mount on it. I imagine it is pretty stiff through that section. I haven't had any issues with cracking either on my mounts or on the flywheel housing. I built my rear mounts out of 3/16" plate like the front mount. I have heard many people like the Float a motor mounts as they smooth the car out by isolating the engine vibrations. It was easier for me to build them to work on the frame I built then use stock mounts.
     
  21. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,192

    johnneilson
    Member

    CrazyDaddios advice is sound, be careful when buying lifters
    They are available from the normal sources but some new imports are even smaller on foot
    I bought a set that are 15/16” will work on stock cam but not regrind
    Also be aware that the diameters can be different, usually listed as oversized but sometimes just a diameter (.590 or .593)
    J
     
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  22. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,383

    noboD
    Member

    Aren't those adjustable lifters the same as 8N tractors?
     
  23. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I have no experience with the inside of an 8N engine, but I do know that they are half of a V-8 flathead. So I would think that the lifters were more like the V-8 lifters.

    [​IMG]

    .
     
  24. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I bought my last set here:
    http://www.modelaparts.net/

    Call and ask for them specifically.

    .
     
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  25. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    If he is questioning the clearance spec., they are correct. I have run Jim's cams and set the valve lash to those specs (.010" and .012") with no negative results.
     
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  26. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I used Chrysler lifters in my last build. They have a 1 9/32" (1.281") foot. The body is about 1/8" larger in dia. I just reamed the lifter bores out to 5/8"

    .
     
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  27. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,192

    johnneilson
    Member

    Have to be careful with Chrysler lifters
    There are two different sizes .623 and .631
    Have seen more than one motor where block machines for larger and smaller floating around in the bores

    Have also to check the foot diameter
    Usually it will hit block near the cam bearing bosses or side of cam bearing

    J
     
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  28. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 310

    joemac05
    Member

    I am looking for a dimensional drawing of a Model A trans to bell housing bolt pattern. Every time I want to mount some sort of bracket I have to start guessing where the holes should be. I thought this would be a simple search but keep coming up empty handed. :( :confused:
     
  29. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

     
  30. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,181

    lake_harley
    Member

    V4F....I can be pretty dense at times, but if I read your post correctly you built a front cradle style mount from aluminum angle and use Chevy rubber donuts, have float-a-motor mid/bellhousing mounts and also have a stock T-5 mount at the transmission?

    Let me know if I read that all correctly. Thanks.

    Lynn
     

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