Register now to get rid of these ads!

October 2010 Banger meet OOOO Scary

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. That does sound like a crows foot head, as for the "Best" gaskets I have not used them but here is their website.

    Vintage Automotive Gaskets - Head Gaskets and Rear Main Seal Gaskets - Best Gasket
     
  2. Sounds like a "Crows Foot" to me but you need to send photographs as we are just guessing.

    Really no secret. They are one of the few places that make a proper head gasket for the original Riley 2 port. Just google Best Gasket's. They don't sell direct but have a list of dealers. I buy mine through Taylor Engines. I'm assuming you are asking about the gasket company with the name Best Gaskets. I use the "B" size as it fits the Winfield valve areas the best IMO. The Best part number is 573C on the one I'm using. I'm running a Antique Auto, Rosemead Ca repop crows foot on my current "A" engine. 82 MPH on a 15.9 ET
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2010
  3. joee
    Joined: Oct 9, 2009
    Posts: 486

    joee
    Member

    has anyone used a BRUMFIELD head? like/dislike? worth buying?
     
  4. The Hamb kicks ass and you guys rule! Headlight switch question on a model A.... are there 4 positions? I am assuming off, dim, bright, and park. I took mine apart and indexed it when putting it back but want to know the correct positions. Also, I assume that off is with the lever in the down position. Thanks
    Bryan
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2010
  5. There seems to be a Brumfield Head discussion every week on the "A" Ford Barn Forum. Them what has'm swear by 'm them what have other brands swear by them. Like sex, all good, just some is better.
    Light switches are discussed every other week, I think you are right, down is off. If I remember correctly to the left is Park then off and then the headlights to the right. Maybe!
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2010
  6. Crazydaddyo,

    What were the numbers on your final timing slip at the Antique Nationals?

    Thanks
     
  7. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Bill did you get your tire gauge??

    I just got a new tree tape
     
  8. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,718

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Does anyone run a new mallory distributer? Ive herd that mallory is going down hill and if its worth getting.
     
  9. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member


    Bill,
    This year my fastest lap was 17.687 @ 74.61 mph.

    I was the other car that was mentioned in Jim's write-up in the latest FAST news letter. :rolleyes:

    .
     
  10. Okay, fine, no one is going to answer my headlight switch question :rolleyes:

    Let's try another question about intakes, (less boring perhaps). Looking at several styles of performance intakes I have noticed many which mention that they hold heat well. Supposedly that heat helps atomization in a banger motor.
    First, is this true?

    Second, if it is true, will a steel tube type manifold do as well as a more common cast type.

    What says you?
     
  11. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    If you edit out the first sentance in your post you might get an answer
     
  12. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Your intake question does not have enough information.

    Are you looking to put this on a bone stock engine?
    What other changes do you want to do?
    What carb or carbs are you going to use?
    Will they be up draft or down draft?
    Why do you want to change it? Are you looking for more performance? or is it just for aesthetics?

    Putting a dual carb intake on a stock engine is like trying to teach a pig to sing. It will waste your time and it annoys the hell out of the pig.

    I have never heard of a performance intake manifold that makes more horse power because it runs hotter.

    If you are in a cold climate and drive your banger in cold weather, then a intake that is heated by the exhaust will be better for you.

    I run a steel tube intake with dual Strombergs, high compression head and modified B cam year round here in So Cal. On cold winter mornings (in the 40's) Mine develops condinsation on the tubes directly below the carbs. Some times ice. But I have never noticed it running bad because of it.

    Here is a picture:

    [​IMG]



    As for your question about the head light switch, you were right, you should ask that over on the ford barn.


    .
     
  13. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Craz

    I think you may be trying to teach the pig to sing at the wrong end!!!

    It easy for you guys in suny So Cal to forget that a manifold NEEDS heat

    That is a cold manifold is a real power robber. AND if you've real fuel flow the carbs can actually ice in most of the rest of the (not so warm) world

    Other I forgot to mention on the 'Answers' theme is this isn't the main board (thank God) there are not millions of guys looking here. Sure there are some lukers but mostly this is a disscussion berween a very small group of guys interested in mostly some kind of modified stuff. We do all try to help eachother AND you will find some of the best help on the HAMB here but not quickly with lottsaone word posts like the main board.

    Driving a banger means a little slower pace, even the 'Quickest' here have chosen to go slower than the slowest Chevy V-8
     
  14. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Bluto,
    Your right, it is hard for those of us that only have to deal with the occasional rain shower and nothing colder then 30 deg F. Even at that, I don't have any problems with my set up.

    It was in the 80's here today. How is Poland? Will you be visiting us this winter?

    As far as the pig is concerned, I haven't tried it yet, but I'm told the the puckered mouth piece in the rear is were you blow. ;)

    .
     
  15. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Yes Craz

    The Wanderlodge awaits further restoration

    It's about 45F outside today ..... There are pumpkins with frost on them

    Now that we've a big house we will have friends over for Thanksgving. That's a not a holiday here but Mrs B will roast a Turkey with cornbread stuffing(makes from scratch) and make Tamales with smuggled Masa and local pork.
     
  16. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member


    Still getting frosts here and those damed earthquakes but if Mrs B can spare a little of that turkey with the homemade stuffing hummmmmm
     
  17. kenagain
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 820

    kenagain
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey I am in Las Vegas right now but will be home over the weekend. ok I have a stock 30 sedan and I will go check out the light switch positions for ya. mine has cowl lites n they are one notch on the selecter lever I dont know if that will apply to yours tho, anyway stay tuned for the breaking news as for manifolds I am in so cal too
    Ken
     
  18. memaerobilia
    Joined: Mar 24, 2004
    Posts: 195

    memaerobilia
    Member

    What type of magneto is that?
    Is anyone using a Fairbanks Morse in their four-banger? Any photos of one being used on an engine? This one came from a four-banger racing engine about 35 years ago, so i forgot which engine it was, by now.
     

    Attached Files:

    • fm3v.jpg
      fm3v.jpg
      File size:
      26.6 KB
      Views:
      105
  19. My experience is primarily with aluminum manifolds. My engines do not run well or fast until the temperature initially reaches approx. 190 F. Before my engine's are up to the optimum temperature the balance tube is cold to the touch, after the manifold is warmed up my engines run well at any temperature but still seem to produce the most power at around 190 F. Notice I'm writing about my experience's with my engines. This is because you most likely won't have the same components as I have. In my experience the 190 temperature works the same with cast or welded Aluminum.
    I currently run Winfield carburetors so I have no current experience with Stromberg's but have had experience with them in the past which is why I use Winfield's

    I guess my comment on the light switch doesn't qualify as an answer so just go ahead and ignore it! I don't have a stock set up at the moment and was just relying memory.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2010
  20. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Hey Bill

    Are you using an infared thermo to check the manifold temps

    Are the carbs isolated from the manifold heat?

    My idea is the carbs don't need heat only the manifold.

    What you think?
     
  21. What qualifies as an answer? Heres a thought for you, I have the original lights that came with my 29 RPU and there are no parking lights, just the single bulb headlights. but there were 4 positions on the switch
    Now I will reply to your other question by stating my experiences with Aluminum manifolds cast and shop built (welded) You may ignore this also if you choose to do so!
    My experience with my engines currently is limited to dual Winfield carburetors, I have used Strombergs in the past and in the late 40's and 50's you couldn't give an 81 away. Everyone I knew ran 97's as they are faster on the top end all thing being equal. Serious people with warmed over street engines at that time ran single down drafts, maybe a 48. They knew dual 97's looked hotter but were problematic, just too much throttle bore for a warmed over engine, a hot engine (hopped up) could use more. This does depend on the cam, valve size, and compression mainly. Now, getting back to my manifold experiences. On my engines the temperature must reach 190 F before my engines will produce maximum felt horsepower. You can place your hand on the balance tube and it will feel cold before the initial 190 temperature is reached. Remember, this is with Winfield carburetors. This is with both cast or shop built manifolds. Notice my use of the word "my". You probably will have different results on your engine or engines. One formula for racing carburetion was 1" throttle bore for each 50 CI Or you can divide the displacement by the total throttle bore an answer of 50 was considered good for a street engine, 40 for a racing engine. I realize this is more than you asked for but I'm just trying to be helpful. I will qualify my comments with some numbers for one of my engines an "A" engine with a repop Al. Winfield head and a shop built Al manifold carrying dual Winfield "BB"'s. 82 MPH on a 15.9 and an 8.8 for the 66 hill climb.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2010
  22. Bluto, temperature is measured by water temp gauge. I think that you are right, the manifold temp is where its at. The carburetors are out there in the wind but I think the atomization of the mixture is improved and carried better by the manifold heat. Maybe that is not correct but it works for me. I just realized I answered that post twice. Winfield was concerned with fuel air atomization I remember the old adds mentioning the 16 hole tube. There was an experiment that an old engineer I knew was involved with. They took a cookie sheet, covered the bottom with a layer of asbestos with a screen over this then vented the thing into a manifold. They had placed a petcock on all four sides that supplied gasoline into the asbestos,. When they figured the fuel vapors were dense enough they cranked the engine and it fired up. The mixture was controlled by a butterfly in the vent tube. When the engine was warm they opened the butterfly max and he said the crankshaft blew out of the engine. This was around 1910. Just some more trivia for you.
     
  23. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Yes sir Here's my sign ....... little bit rarer than the carbs :cool:
     

    Attached Files:

  24. I don't think most manufacturers knowingly produce junk but they (some) are constantly cutting back costs to try to increase profit, The current Mallory distributors probably will function properly. The advantage"?" with the Mallory is that you can change the total advance your self, within certain limits. I have run them and have converted them with the Pertronix kits. I'm now rebuilding an older Mallory dual point 3 piece cap unit for the 2 port, not because of the quality but for the reason I think it looks good and, this for Craz, it looks Period correct. It also appears to have a max of 40 degrees. I also have recently purchased a couple of the Mallory Best coils to use. Again just for the period look. One thing I have found is that people don't seem to lubricate them often enough and the older ones don't seem to have had oilite bronze bearings in them and seize and then someone tries to break them loose and breaks off the drive tang.

    You may have noticed my speeds and times posted recently. These were with a bone stock "B" distributor, points and all, and the coil from a ford tractor. High tech all the way.

    I recently suffered a medical problem so I'm now on the computer more as if you hadn't noticed, Nothing to do but give long winded BS answers to questions that have strayed from the barn. I cruise the "Barn" every morning picking up good info.
     
  25. I want it! Which one do you want, left or right?
     
  26. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,718

    junk yard kid
    Member

    I sit at work all day looking at the hamb. I would love to run an older unit, or even a stock b if i could find one. The price of the new mallory isnt bad but it does look so new. I guess i could hit it with some sandpaper and some paint on the cap. I just want the advatages of centrifigal advance. But ive heard that mallory has changed hands several times and am not sure of the quality anymore.


     
  27. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Bill

    I was given that by Mark Dees After his death! Mark was an old friend. Now gone and lost to all of us forever...... It stays with me. Ihave all this junk each thing has a story

    I know you understand. There are repos and maybe half dozen real you can try one of the other five guys. Latten has a sign he might sell.
     
  28. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    JY Kid go to the BIG 3 in Feb you'll find a good B dist. :)
     
  29. I see rebuilt "b" distributors on ebay occasionally I think they go for around $175. The main concern is the amount of wear on the small diameter shaft the carries the point cam but FS will fix the advance and install a Pertronix and then you would be good to go. Go to the Barn classifieds and ask, do the same here on the Hamb.
     
  30. I may have caused some serious damage to my banger last weekend fellas. So far I have the head off and all valves open and close fine, the pistons are good. Tomorrow night I am pulling the pan to see whats knocking in the bottom end. All plugs were consistent with their coloring and the carbon build-up in the cylinders and on head leave me to believe its all bottom end. Hope my babbits ok and all it needs is shims taken out somewhere. If not I am swapping to my spare engine to get out to California Hot Rod Reunion to represent for us banger guys. Swap is gonna be a late night endeavor tomorrow night if I have to pull the current one. Any of you fellas attending this year? Dan.... Bill.....-Weeks
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.