Oct 2011 Banger Meet. Not all that scary...Really.

Just plain Bill yes thanks Bill I received it I will be doing a varation of that there seems to be a lot of different versions of this but all the basic principles are the same oiling and sealing up A ,B and Tee motors is probably one of the most discussed topics to do with early Fords in the standard form I would say yes they all leak but in the modern form with shell bearings and modern seals ect I feel we should be building motors that not only go better but should leave a cleaner footprint [plus as being a greybeard now I dont like crawling under the car to wipe off excess oil] It is my goal to build a car that not only is inovative looks nice and goes well and is safe but also is welcomed at friends properties without leaving oily footprints where ever it goes.

 

That would be nice Russ but is it possible ? I was talking with a friend about that very topic the other day and he quoted someone that said
" they don't leak, they are just marking their territory"
One more task to tackle on the roadster. I guess its just part of the fun running a four banger....
Ron

 

Hey Bluto,
This is a little off topic, but we finally got our house sold in Denver and now have got almost everything moved to Kansas. You were right, i should have just cut our losses way back then when we talked. Live and learn, right? Anyway, i've almost got the Bridgeport unpacked and re-setup and going to get started on some of those Banger related projects. Might even have my '28 coupe on the road this spring. Thanks Mike

 

Hi Mike

I'm sorry to be right about on that

Anyone have a print for the early HAL dohc? The one with bolts arount the cam covers

 

Bluto, Is this what you were looking for???

 

Nice cold drive to work today



I can't think of a better way to end a work week

 

Yes mine is a mess.... No problem getting heads made but I need a print any ideas?

 

I'm still digging out a lot of my stuff, but, think that Charlie Yapp (SOSS) would have some resources or a contact.

Mike

 

Anyone have anymore info on the Kong oil filter adapters? Or how to run oil lines on a Model A block? Thanks guys!

 

Pic of the kit might help
Is the filter bolted to the side cover or do you have to have a return line?
With my car it didn't have a filter the 1st 80 years why start now

 

Bluto,
Could you have your head scanned with a 3D scanner. I know that might not be possible in Poland. But it is used a lot around here. They can use this info to make a physical model to use as a casting pattern.

.

 

That is exactly what we are doing. But drawings would help with the cores

Actually since Poland had very little we they got free of Soviet control. So there is the latest and greatest now accessable. We even have sliced bread

 

Bill great looking countryside but glad we are moving into summer looking forward to long trips in the RP along the less used roads of New Zealand but glad to see you still out and about


I can't think of a better way to end a work week[/QUOTE]

 

I dont know beans about bangers..but this has to be a rare head treatment ?

 

Not the rarest of the rare as far as Model T OHV conversions go, but the ROOF Model B 16-valve heads are not commonly seen.

 

[/QUOTE]

10"-12" of snow for sat.
Is it summer yet....

 

I posted this on the Fordbarn and had over a hundred lookers but no suggestions. Any thoughts. <!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->
What spark plug would you suggest for a stock motor with a B grind on the cam and a orginal 6 -1 Cast iron Winfield head? Carb is a BB Winfield and flywheel has been lighten to 42 lbs. I will also be using a Model B dist. The head takes the 18mm plugs. Thanks

 

Hi Nick,

I have a Kong filter mount on my A motor. I like it. I will take some pics for you and post tomorrow.

Troy

 

AC 45 or C45 (heavier electrodes) or equivalent


Herb

 

Thanks Troy that'd be a great help mate!

 

Thank you but I must have been having a bad day, the head takes 18mm plugs. Ken

 

Champion D-16 might be a good place to start. I made some 14 to 18 adapters but thats getting pretty thin. I run the D16's in my 2 port and plan on starting with some in my Winfield "Crows Foot" when I put it on. The plugs are plentiful and reasonably priced if you shop on the internet.

 

VW used a 14 to 18 MM adaptor as a repair, back in my aircooled VDub days. VW part number is 111-101-451A. They are still available, I found several on the net the other night anywhere from $1 to $14 a piece. Panhead, I think D-16's are what's in my Farmall tractor, so Messicks would have them.

 

A little fun in the SNOW...

 

I found them from $1.80 to $13.00. They are usually used in industrial engines or tractor engines. My car with the 2 port in it ran 84 MPH at the drags so I think the plugs work rather well. I ran a FS distributor and gapped them at .060. I have 14 mm plugs in the Al Winfield gapped at .040 with a stock B distributor with a Mallory coil. That ignition ran the Winfield flathead to 82MPH.

 

Thanks Bill, I will get a set and try them.

 

Nick,
Here is a picture of my setup. The mount is attached at the oil pan rail, below the side timing cover. I run full pressure, so one line runs from the side of the block at the oil pump to the side inlet on the filter mount. Another line runs from the top of the mount to a fitting I installed in the block just below the valve cover. This connects to the oil lines I ran in the valve chamber. I hope this helps.

 

Here is a good resource for Spark plug research and cross reference. You can search by brand, number, or size. If you go to the "Advanced Tuners" page you can input plug thread size, reach, etc. to find the plug you need.

http://www.sparkplugs.com/

Advanced Tuner:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/search_char.asp
.

 

Crazydaddyo, thanks for all the banger threads and posts.

 

Troy here is a picture of my filter adapter. My adapter has one of the holes on the side plugged with just a fitting on the top and side.

Do you have to drill your own holes or are there holes available to use? I'm really new to this banger stuff so not really sure how it all works. Do you have pictures of your oil lines inside the valve cover?