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Hot Rods now a '33 5w chopped ford hemi coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2345.coupe, Aug 20, 2016.

  1. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 1,844

    Dirk35
    Member

    Looking Good! The bottom of your car looks the same as mine, but you have WAY better panel fit on your door.

    I see you haven't finished the upper part of the door. Make sure you account for room for the A Pillar Garnish Molding. Its 18Ga and wraps around the inside of the A Pillar. My Passenger door drags on mine.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 2, 2017
  2. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    your rod looks great Dirk35..........
    well, I've been plugging away at her, got the drivers side inner and outer rockers installed,finally got the door alignment to where I'm happy with it, cowl and rear patch panel mocked in. I've got the back of the car lowered and I'm happy with her stance. Today we finally dug out the hood, radiator and grille and mocked them in. We needed to know how much room there was for the alternator. We have to fabricate a bracket to install the alternator.I don't have a crossover thermostat housing on my hemi motor and the hotheads alternator bracket (s) won't work, not enough room on the lower end of the motor.
    I'm real happy on how she looks........
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    kidcampbell71 and exterminator like this.
  3. Your moving right along bro!
     
  4. Looking great!!
     
  5. RODIST
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 154

    RODIST

  6. RODIST
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 154

    RODIST

    Hi, I'm subscribed!
     
  7. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    thanks tim.......I would like to be further along. It's more complex than my model A build and definitely more expensive.

    thanks 37 Nillrat, I'm getting really excited now, can't wait to fire her up.......

    thanks man..........
     
  8. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  9. I'm going to be doing this stuff pretty soon. I have the cabrio sold and am thinking about building the chassis vs. buying a pro-built.
     
    Runnin shine likes this.
  10. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,401

    Corn Fed
    Member

    I've had bad luck with those inline brake light switches not working after a while. I now use either the plunger or arm type activated by your pedal.
     
  11. Are the shocks hanging there, or are they mounted towards the center of the rear end?
     
  12. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    mounted towards center of rear end. I'll post a better pic.
     
  13. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    well, I decided to use stock exhaust manifolds. With the drive shaft headers I initially planned on I would of had to cut up or eliminated the inner fenders and cut up the hood sides. In my opinion ,the inner fenders are so cool and the complete hood plus inner fenders make the car.Without both of them , the car looses most of its class \(uniqueness) .
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    BradinNC likes this.
  14. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 965

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    I would suggest revisiting the rear shocks, mounted like you have they will do nothing to help control body roll. With that cool power plant that little chassis will need all the help it can get. ;) upload_2017-4-1_19-34-7.png
     
  15. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the heads up JohnBoy34. I really appreciate it. One of the reasons I post my builds on the HAMB is to get constructive information like this. This will improve my build, its safety and the safety of others on the highway.
     
  16. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,569

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Sedan is coming along great! My input on the brake line routing would be to rerun those lines, mounting them to the frame with rubber lined adel clamps and proper dog leg bends approaching the attachment points. Hard lines need support, unlike rubber/braided flex lines that can be ran straight from point A-B. Suspended out there in the breeze w/o any support, will eventually stress/crack the lines behind the fittings as the up/down suspension and gravity shocks the chassis.
     
    neilswheels and brigrat like this.
  17. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah.....I know....I'm not finished yet, still lots more to do.
    thanks.......
     
  18. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 965

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    I have seen guys use a bracket similar to your frame engine mount, stood up on top of the cross member for a shock mount. To accommodate a longer shock. You've got a lot done in a short time, be proud!
     
  19. Thanks for the input Johnboy34. That's where I was headed with the question on the lower shock mounting, but I haven't been back on, to check the forum.
     
  20. johnold1938
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 304

    johnold1938
    Member
    from indiana

    LEAVE HENRYS DESIGN ALONE go buy a plastic car all ready chopped SAW ZALLS ARE FOR WOOD!!
     
    Andy likes this.
  21. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    you were right man, the body was setting on the brackets, so we did some cutting
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    well, have I told you I have smart friends, friends who can do anything with a marker, cardboard, sharp pair of scissors , plasma cutter and welder.
    my alternator bracket.....the top hole ,with no bolt , has a spacer behind it. It was made from a section of hollow steering shaft. The bottom of the alternator has washers so it can be shimmed if needed. The top hole of the alternator will have a 9" adjustment rod . That will be attached to the top water pump bolt. That's on order. The rod will put tension on the belt.
    I changed the rear shocks around, which now will stabilize the rear of the car. My problem is I can't follow directions especially when I'm standing on them.
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    Last edited: Apr 3, 2017
    kidcampbell71 and brEad like this.
  22. 31aford
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 57

    31aford
    Member
    from az

     
  23. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 965

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Looks good! Don't forget the shocks will move to the rear as the spring flattens out over bumps.
     
  24. 31aford
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 57

    31aford
    Member
    from az

    I am building a 34 with other rear spring set up with the spring mounted under the frame rails. It looked like it was pretty cramped in the rear floor board area. I am contemplating chopping mine. Why do you move the bottom rear corner forward instead of sliding the top back to match up? It seems like it would be easier when cutting the garnish moldings to add a small piece to lenghten it than trying to shorten the bottom corner of the molding. I am waiting on a nice side profile shot to see how it looks with the chop. You are doing a great job keep at it
     
  25. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 1,844

    Dirk35
    Member

    I think what Johnboy34 is saying is that you might consider using a piece of more substantial tubing to space the top of the shocks a little further from the cross member. That way, when your springs flatten out and the rear end rotates towards the back of the car, it'll help keep the shocks from binding on the cross member.

    I also recommend that you weld a piece of thicker wall tubing for the upper shock mount and/or add a gusset to it. Maybe its the picture, but what you're using looks really small and thin at the top of those shocks. And even though the springs hold the weight of the rear, it looks like your upper shock mount is not substantial enough and could eventually break.

    Hopefully this picture makes sense. The red indicates a short piece of thick walled tubing, and the blue indicates a gusset. I also included a couple of other pictures I pulled form Google so you get an idea of what I'm trying to say.
     

    Attached Files:

    Johnboy34 likes this.
  26. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 1,844

    Dirk35
    Member

    On your brake lines, What is that gold anodized thing in the line that goes to the front brakes? I see the two red residual valves and the brake light switch on the line going to the rear brakes.
     
  27. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That "thing'' is a anti roll device. Hit the brakes, press the button ,let off the brakes and your front wheels (brakes) are locked, back brakes are free. Release the button and your on your way. Oh yes I forgot, after you hit the brakes and push the button you burn the tires.......
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2017
  28. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    thanks Dirk.... I'll just reinforce the upper shock bolts with some welding material. That will do the trick.
     
  29. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    some exhaust work.........
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    brEad likes this.
  30. 2345.coupe
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,004

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    brEad likes this.

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