The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Nov 1, 2022.
Could you share your source for the Chrysler lifters? Thanks!
I bought these at a swapmeet years ago. I do know that Egge Machine Co. lists them as in stock. They are not a direct slide in item. You either have to open up the lifter bores in the block, or grind down the body of the lifter. I've done the latter. They are also longer and require modifications if you want to use them in a Flathead set up.
Are those 625 or 633 dia?
and make sure the cam bearings clear the foot
I have seen some stop rotating it gets ugly
These were .630 dia. Cam clearance is next.
I've used them on my last 2 builds with out issue.
I found interference pairing Chrysler lifters with a Brierly cam at the radii between the cam bearing journal and the shaft. I needed to reduce the lifter foot diameter 0.040 to ensure clearance for the lifters to rotate. It was a three bearing cam so it only affected the exhausts.
My build was a flathead; I used SBI brand valves by Eaton that were the correct length out of the box to work with the taller lifters. The intakes were 1.625 diameter PN 01083, and the exhausts were 1.50 diameter PN 00504. With the shorter valves the installed valve height was just right for providing 60 lbs. of seat pressure as recommended by Jim B. using stock A valve springs.
That sounds great, those are the only ones I use
I have beat the crap out of them with seat pressures in the 180 lb range and spinning 7000 rpm
Just send out to have refaced and use them again
Don’t try ti coating, didn’t help
There is a mold treatment that does work but is extremely expensive dictonite I think
I don't plan on working them that hard. This engine is for pop's truck. I have been using a thin dense hard chrome at work and like how it works in extreme pressure conditions. I would consider it if a coating was applicable.. Very hard, only a couple of tenths build up and does not flake or peel. doesn't need a high Rockwell base either.
I also had the cylinders on this block sonic checked for thickness. After boring to .060 over, the thinnest point was .216" in one spot, and average was over .250". I would be comfortable going to a 4" bore on my next build.
Ah, yes. You’re using a Volvo box. Will the centre hole in the diaphragm fit over the snout of an early Ford box?
That is good information there, thanks
Are you offset boring when you go 4" bore?
It can help with gasket sealing 1/2 and 3/4.
I also tried hard chrome, was hit n miss, sort of.
From the mold work, we found the harder materials hold up better, less deflection to crack the chrome.
Stoked about these “new to me” jigs for drilling front and side timing covers.
Question: What type of device/tool is used to machine the rope seal on the front timing covers?
Check out these guys for thin dense chrome email@example.com we use armtech on a lot of our high wear areas on high production molds. 50 microns to .0001 build up. They are very reasonable cost wise as well.
I would suggest a convex side milling cutter of the appropriate size style is shown below. If you can get a cutter undersize in terms of diameter and cutter radius then you could use it in a cnc mill, other wise on a standard mill you need a cutter with the same diameter and radius /width as the rope seal groove.
Bought some bling from Australia. Guess I’ll have to build another car to fit these to…
Assume everyone saw the 2 Fronty's and the 16 valve Roof buried in the classifieds? Happy Sunday!
Oh yeah! Been there for over a year… was in discussions last summer for the whole lot, but couldn’t close up the 2000 mile gap in the deal He sent me a bunch of pics of the heads, and they look great! Someone closer to the rust belt needs to swoop in on em!
Yeah, not critical path at the moment. The Roof would be fun though.
The 2 Frontys are T models, not overly exciting, but they sure make a sweet runnin engine! The Roof 16 is a B model, with the improved rocker arms and complete with manifolds. The 16’s are pretty awesome to see runnin with their giant terraced exposed rockers, and all that valve area makes for a fantastic exhaust note!
The issue really comes do availability
While this has been on the market for a year it may be 10 years before another one comes available
the SCTA just had the November meet get cancelled, when is the Tether car at Whittier Narrows?
This weekend starting Friday morning. Racing all three days. Saturday will be the most active day. I'll be there all three days
Whittier Narrows park
1101 Loma, South El Monte, CA 91733-2919, United States
Friday, November 11, 2022
9:00 AM - 3:00 PM
Saturday, November 12, 2022
9:00 AM - 3:00 PM
Sunday, November 13, 2022
9:00 AM - 3:00 PM
will have to slip out on the Honey Doo's
The cam was shipped to Elgin!! Progress might be happening.
Also found a good 3 dip pan, that should fit nicely. Will braze in a dam behind the 4 rod tip. Have really cool hand made deep sump that I'll put on.
Outside of the starter, should be a pretty complete late teens build, as most of my little pile of parts was for a Brass era build.
Ostensibly, the car was built after '26, which in my reading is logical, as there was a significant price drop due to the depression setting in.
I've always wondered if the Model A Ford Killed Speedsters, like the Mustangs Killed Hot Rods in the mid 1960's?
I think The Depression had a hand in it as well-
The music, clothes, speedsters, etc of the Roaring 20's all came from a "thirst for life" reaction to the devastation of WWI
Do you have a copy of "The Bobby, The Babe, and Me?" Herk relays how when the Model A came out, the owner of "The Bobby" sprint car just tossed in the towel because his T was never going to be competitive again.
Thinking about it, there was such a plethora of T's every where...15 MM vs 4.8 MM, racing changed, cars changed and so on. Also, speedsters really seemed to have a heyday from 1919 through '27? maybe a bit longer, at that point the T had been around for 18 years, the model A wouldn't see that time spectrum (read value depreciation) until the late 30's, when a war hit...after the war: Hot Rods.
I think it was somewhere around 1938 or so that flathead V8's were finally out running Bangers with overheads in the dry lakes.
Got a pretty good score on this old beat up aluminum head.
What is the formula for calculating combustion ratio with using CC's of liquid?
Are you going to weld the corrosion or use some type of epoxy stuff?
Separate names with a comma.