Technical ***November 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Shop Time!***

if i hit a bump or crack in the road , the car jumps to right / left . so fast i cant stop it .
vega cross steer / heim joints all around . the steering feels uncomfortable ........... steve

 

First really check to see if it is bump steer....
Jump up and down on the front end and see if the steering wheel moves to the left and right.
If it does, you have bump steer. If it doesn't, it's something else in the set up.

What you are describing is looseness in the front end somewhere....
Place to start with that is tire inflation and then wheel bearing preload.
Work on everything at once so you don't know what fixed it.....

 

Stock seal? 'Modern' seal with the slinger machined to accept it?

 

Right now I have the stock set up. I am not opposed to going to a modern seal, but clueless on what to buy for that. It is a B set up with inserts. Stock B pan.

 

** first , thank you .
good ideas i had forgot about ............ thanks .. steve

 

Doing a DOT check on a front end tells alot..find someone to rock the steering wheel right and left while you watch every point from pitman arm to wishbone to drag link to kingpins to tie rod...resting your hand on the tire while doing it is a tell as well,if you feel a click you have an issue.

 

The stock rear main has a slinger and maybe a felt that runs against the crank. Make sure that the oil drain tube and main cap are free of any old babbitt that might stop up the drain. No clearance required.
Modern seal needs part of the slinger removed to a specific diameter that is found in the installation instructions of the seal.
If you use the one piece modern one you need to change the piece in the block to accept it.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...y=Products/model-a/engine/crankshaft-camshaft
Hope that helps

 

Steve
Does your car have a panhard bar for the cross steer?
It almost sounds like axle is moving side to side on the shackles
John

 

thanks . i appreciate all info

 

no it does not , more to check ........ thanks john

 

Was going to ask same question. Gotta have a panhard with cross steer.

 

I don't think boring, sleeveing, milling, better valve timing, hotter ignition, adding an OHV or DOHC or using a five main girdle on a "Stock Block" is cheating! I don't know of any "Vintage" racing organization that frowns upon these on "PreWar" race cars! Enlighten me!

 

There is the problem
The axle can swing on the shackles side to side
Most mount right side to axle and mount left side to frame
Make it substantial IMHO min 5/8” heims

 

ok , no bump steer , one down , many to go

 

Yes checking all joints for soundness is the first thing! Of course my system as shown is a pitman arm on a Schroeder (formerly Franklin) Steering Box; with a Drag Link to a left driver's side Steering Arm. Then a Tie Rod goes over to the right side! I put a Panhard Bar from the left side front frame across to the right side Radius Rod ( close to Parallel with the axle). I have a Damper attached to the Cross Tie Rod. I've re-arched the remaining Spring Leaves (Mainspring Eyes reversed); so that the Shackles are on a 45 degree angle. Toe In set at about 3/8"!

 

It could be something as simple as the roads here in the peoples republic of newsome..my car is tight,tracks true,but some of the cracks and transitions here are brutal,lane swapping brutal. I'm going to try pulling a few leaves and running some big oil filled rear shocks in the rear,might pull a leave or two in the front as well soften it up so my tires stay on 'Gavins buckboard' instead of being launched.

 

Well - popped the laser welded block together. Flashed some Massey Ferguson red on there. Must be worth a couple of horsepower. Topped off with one of Jim Brierley's heads.



Bit too much advance here but it's running.

 

Go man Gow

 

Nice to see someone moving forward!

 

yes the roads are crap . found a front tire with a bulge in it . got a new one & rebalanced the tires . also got a steering dampener . should be better soon ...... my car is so low , very little travel .

 

Bias ply has the 'look' but I do go for that shit,they ride hard and track funny.Happy with the modern radials except with dead steer,I crowned the fronts (50 psi) to reduce the effort.

 

Or convert one spring shackle to a dead perch

 

This is true, typically done on oval cars where you can place it on correct side for the turns.
It is probably not the solution for a street car as the spring will change center position as the spring compresses or is bumped and affect the steering position.
The strange phenomenon about this is, the dead perch was not developed to correct cross steering issues.

John

 

Cheers - built to drive...
The distributor is a dual point Mallory. The cap is a V8 one as it's all I had. They fit the same.

 

Restorers will quickly inform anyone who cares to know that a ‘stock block’ is a block, A or B, as Ford made it; that is...not altered !

So , my question is... when is an A/B block ....no longer considered a stock blk ?
-is it when an A/B exact clone blk
is made by someone ...other than Ford ?
-is it when it is rebuilt with modern speed equipment ?
-is it when it is filled with lead and reconfigured with different positioned ports ?
-is it when tons of $ and machining work , make it able to run at a racetrack ?
Or .... is it when someone(s) , who makes a rule, says it is ?
BTW...there is now an A/B clone /replica blk , that appears to be ‘stock blk’ , in all outward appearances. It is made with modern tech , including metallurgy! How will that blk be treated...for competition racing or restoring,etc ?
What point is a ‘stock blk’....not ?
Just curious.

 

GOOD QUESTIONS! I personally think that all of the above would be considered "Stock"; with the exception, perhaps, of the "Clones"! However, I THINK that any block that conforms to the design and architecture of the original thing should be considered as basically Stock! Modifications off the "Stock Block' could be scrutinized!

 

Good points there. I guess how important it is to a person that wants to race within a particular sponsoring body? Being SCTA or FAST or whoever is putting on the competition. Follow the rules to race at the RPM nationals or Bonneville or El Mirage or cheat and try to get away with it. I am not interested in an all out competition so If I cant qualify under the rules I figure I am out. I cant run any TROG events with my coupe because of a T-5 and a 12 volt alternator. I accept that and understand why. I figure if the event organizers want a particular kind of car in their show that is entirely up to them to include or exclude cars because of features. It is a little like going to a pre 65 show that doesnt want R-Rods and being judged when you show up. Cool enough gets to park with the show cars or you get to park with all the spectators.

 

The racing organization is the entity who crafts the rules to regulate their events.
FAST, SCTA, TROG, SCCA/VARA are all different and cater to different markets. It becomes entertaining when one tries to influence the standing rules of another org.
The questions about "stock" blocks have many different interpretations, reading the actual rules does clear up the issue. Believe me, the SCTA will not allow the "new stock" blocks in record certification. There have been too many pictures and articles posted on the web for anyone to easily identify the new blocks.
You could of course compete in the standard competition categories of motors with the new blocks, but why, the old technology is at such a disadvantage compared to the current technology.

You pick your poison and hopefully enjoy the time spent participating.
This last year went by too fast, limited events and this last weekend I pushed a bad situation.
I had a stagger issue with the car and pushed on to the end, went thru the timing lights crossed up of 140 plus.
Luckily nothing was hurt and the timing lights still standing.

John

 

"This last year went by too fast, limited events and this last weekend I pushed a bad situation.
I had a stagger issue with the car and pushed on to the end, went thru the timing lights crossed up of 140 plus.
Luckily nothing was hurt and the timing lights still standing."

As the late Dick Lane (Calling the "Jalopy Derby" on KTTV) would say: "WHOA NELLIE!"